I’ve ticked off many of the major Italian cities: Florence, Rome, Milan and Venice. I’ve ventured to the beautiful Southern region of Puglia and indulged in the food specialities of Bologna and Modena in central Italy. When my chef friend offered her services as a travelling companion we decided on the destination of Alba in the Northern Piedmont area of Italy, famous for its truffles and vineyards. Three days was the perfect amount of time to explore Alba’s main culinary spots and also check out some of the tiny neighbouring towns. Here’s a few tips for discovering the best food and sights in this blissfully unspoilt region of Italy.
Alba
Piazza Duomo – This three Michelin-star establishment is a mecca for food enthusiasts. Chef Enrico Crippa is renowned for his beautiful culinary inventions using the very best Langhe region ingredients. Dishes such as the complex 21, 31, 41, 51 salad, a sensational bowl of multiple ingredients picked from the garden, have a reputation far beyond Alba. Both the food and the pale pink dining room are a lasting memory from our trip to Alba.
La Romana – This is THE place to get gelato in Alba. Order as the locals do – the vibrant strawberry or delicious hazelnut flavour topped with panna fresca (whipped cream). Open throughout the day and until late at night for all your ice-cream cravings!
Focacceria il Budego – A legendary venue selling the best focaccia in the area. Join the queue for this quick and delicious lunch offering (just 2.50 euros a slice), pillowy soft bread topped with a variety of Italian flavours, from mascarpone and roasted vegetables, to anchovies and olives.
Guido Ristorante at Fontanafredda – A short drive from Alba, you will find Fontanafredda winery, where they produce some of the region’s finest wines. Guido Ristorante is found in the grand 19th century villa on the site and is an elegant Michelin-starred restaurant where chef Ugo Alciati showcases the essence of Piedmont with flair and innovation. The pure white cow’s milk fiordilatte ice-cream was perhaps the most memorable part of our special dinner here.
Caffe Vergnano 1882 – The staff at Vergnano are serious about coffee. As soon as you walk through the door you’ll be hit with the alluring scent of roasted coffee beans. Admire the antique roaster before ordering a 1 euro macchiato. The coffee here is strong in flavour and smooth in texture.
Pasticceria Pettiti – This stylish old-fashioned shop is known for its sweet treats and baked goods, and is said to be the place where the recipe for Nutella was invented. Visit for a sugary afternoon snack.
Gusio Madre – If you need a quick and tasty meal in Alba, join the locals at Gusio Madre, a gourmet pizza eatery. There are a variety of pizza bases to choose from, I recommend the classic base with the wonderfully simple topping of extra creamy buffalo mozzarella, sweet tomatoes and basil.
Caffe Teatro – This charming little cafe is always full of locals who stop by for their strong morning coffee and daily croissant. The chocolate and hazelnut pastries are delicious, the coffee is good and the prices are cheap. Sit inside at the cosy tables with a newspaper or relax on the sunny terrace.
Soda – For creative cocktails and inventive vegan food, Soda is the place to go. The specialities here are gin & tonic and craft beer, but if you sit at the bar and tell the bartender what you like he’ll create a drink to suit your mood.
Sucre – Sucre is found on the outskirts of Alba, a short 5-minute drive from the centre of town. This Pasticceria makes and sells a huge range of pastries and is a delicious option for breakfast. Order a strong cappuccino and ask for a cream custard filled croissant. It is the speciality of Sucre and definitely the best pastry we tried.
Turin
There are plenty of charming towns nearby to Alba, we enjoyed wandering round Barolo, La Morra and Saluzzo. For a more cosmopolitan experience head to Turin to marvel at the grand old coffee houses and abundant food markets.
Ristorante Consorzio – This unfussy bistro serves up some of the best dishes in Turin. Be sure to book as the dining room fills up fast, even at lunchtime. Order a few plates from the short but tempting menu, which includes recipes from the region such as irresistibly tasty agnolotti in a buttery sauce. The company’s second venue Banco is also popular, a small wine bar and eatery.
Mercato di Porta Palazzo – This sprawling food market in central Turin will excite all the senses. Each stall offers a new delicacy or delight, from every variety of vegetable to beautiful fresh cheeses, eggs and meats. The perfect place to stock up on foodie gifts to take home.
Cafe Al Bicerin – This magical little cafe has been serving drinks in Turin’s piazza della Consolata since the 18th century. The little shop sells chocolate and sweet treats while the cosy cafe is the home to Turin’s classic hot drink, called a Bicerin. The drink is layered into the glass very carefully – espresso first, then cocoa and finally a topping of thick cream, delicious but very rich!
Cafe Torino – Found beneath the historic arches at Piazza San Carlo is the stunning Art Nouveau decorated Cafe Torino. The cafe opened in 1903 and has been serving drinks and food ever since. Sit outside and watch the world go by. (Torino – meaning bull – is the city’s emblem, rub your foot across the brass emblem of a bull outside Cafe Torino for good luck.)
Orso Laboratario Caffe – This stylish cafe, located in the San Salvario neighborhood is one of the only speciality coffee shops in Turin and is always full of locals in the know. The faded decor is atmospheric and the coffee is expertly poured. A great stop for your morning caffeine fix.