Mother restaurant is a no-fuss Italian eatery that has been a hipster favourite in Copenhagen since it opened in 2010. The company has recently arrived in South London’s Battersea Power Station complex, finding a home under one of the railway arches. Currently the area feels a little like a dead end, but in a year’s time, when 30 more restaurants have set up, it will be a real hub of activity and culinary excitement.
The large space is simply decorated but feels cosy with vibrant red lighting and rustic wooden tables. The dining tables surround a wood-fire pizza oven, which both generates heat for the large space and ensures the restaurant always smells wonderful.
We started our lunch with a selection of antipasti. It was immediately clear to see how much the Mother team care about fresh organic produce. I was surprised in late December to taste such sweet tomatoes and flavoursome vegetables… and with ingredients this good very little needs to be done to them.
The cured meats were delicious, extra thin slices of a peppery salami, and moreish proscuitto. I also loved the arancini balls, which come in a jumbo size at Mother filled with a flavoursome meaty rice.
There are a few pasta dishes on offer, but if you come to Mother it’s all about the sourdough, sea-water base pizzas, so don’t miss out on this section of the menu. We tried the ‘proscuitto’ a colourful pizza topped with tomato, mozzarella, proscuitto di norcia, rucola and pesto. The base was soft and tasty (though there was too much crust for me), and the tomato sauce was tangy and fresh. I appreciated the generosity of the creamy mozzarella and was impressed with the homemade parmesan-filled pesto. After, several different waitresses insisted we also ordered the ‘burning love’ pizza, a white base option topped with potato, mozzarella, fried onions and speck. It was surprisingly good, the potato was sliced thinly enough to avoid being too heavy and the onions had a lovely herby rosemary aroma.
The pizzas are very filling at Mother, but I couldn’t leave without trying their tiramisu, which is comforting and authentic. A glass of creamy coffee goodness came to the table, and I couldn’t stop eating. It was light but decadent, sweet but grown-up. The perfect end to our London Mother experience.
More information on Mother restaurant and book a table here.