I’ve been lucky enough to dine at Céleste at The Lanesborough a few times, for different occasions, and I always enjoy the food and the immaculate service. On a dark November evening last week I arrived with my dad to trial the new special Game set menu.
It always feels like a treat to walk into the stunning Lanesborough Hotel, and the staff ensure you are well looked after from the moment you step inside. Arriving a little early for our table at Céleste they whisked us into the cosy hotel bar for a small glass of champagne!
To celebrate the start of game season chef Eric Frechon has created an indulgent and exclusive menu to showcase the season’s finest produce. After a few delicious bites, including wonderfully warm bite-sized game doughnuts, we proceeded with the menu for the evening.
The first course was perhaps my favourite… a carefully assembled slice of terrine with Hen Pheasant, Foie Gras, black truffle and Jerusalem artichoke. It was a lovely ensemble, highlighting many of my favourite Autumnal flavours. The dish was paired with a delicate red wine, Chinon Philippe Alliet from the Loire Valley.
For our second course we were served a Wild Duck Pie with black truffle and giblets, roasting jus and fresh herbs salad. The buttery puff pastry encased a gamey pink meat, it was delicious, though I felt the truffle sauce was perhaps a little unnecessary. I was grateful for a small serving of fresh salad with this course… you definitely won’t get many of your five a day here!
Main course was very decadent… Hare à la royale with celeriac and chestnut ravioli glazed in horseradish. The hare was an intensely flavoured soft meat which melted in the mouth, topped with a beautifully shiny jus. Initially I found the punchy horseradish taste a little alarming, but after a few mouthfuls began to enjoy how the spiciness cut through the meat. The sommelier matched this powerful dish with a full-bodied red, Cheval des Andes from Argentina.
The dessert was a wonderful combination of walnut, pear and blackberry. This Autumnal recipe followed on perfectly from the rich savoury courses, a sweet and nutty conclusion to the lavish and memorable meal.
This four-course menu costs £110 per person, or £190 per person with matching wines.
The Game Menu is available until 30 November, more information here.