Kitty Fisher’s, Shepherd’s Market

Kitty Fisher’s is the restaurant of the moment, and I expected a clientele of a similar ilk to the social climbers and celebs at Chiltern Firehouse. But I was very wrong. This traditional and charming little restaurant is tucked away in the historic Shepherd’s Market in central London. The diners tend to be older and wiser, foodies who love fine cooking but don’t appreciate a paparazzi flash in the face.

Squeezing into our seats at this traditional and cosy restaurant, I was amazed by the boutique size of the venue. I quickly learnt about our neighbouring couple’s children and their holiday dilemmas. They were one course ahead of us, so conveniently we had a preview before our dinner. I overheard too, who the restaurant is named after – an infamous 18th century courtesan apparently.

The menu features modern British fare with a Spanish twist.  The eatery has a wood grill used for a number of the dishes and chef Tomos Parry illustrates his talent through bold and brilliant flavour combinations. The menu varies slightly depending on the seasonal produce available, though tends to feature hearty meat dishes involving indulgent ingredients.

My burrata was the meal highlight, a creamy white cheese, decorated with emerald green peas, delicate peapods and mint. The fresh flavours worked perfectly together, a lovely springtime plate of food. My dinner guest chose the Breaded Cornish mussels which were fragrant, light and delicious, and served with a wild garlic mayonnaise.

Ox cheek is a rich main course – slow cooked meat falling apart, a sticky caramelised edge and tender inside, it had a depth of flavour that comes from lengthy expert cooking. The meat was accompanied with champ (mashed potato and spring onion) a scrumptious combination, totally addictive. Beef Sirloin was a more standard British plate of food, cooked meticulously again and served with onion, pickled walnut, pink fir and tunworth. The thick potatoes were topped with an intense mustard and strong Tunworth cheese, it was all a bit overpowering, especially next to the delicious meat. Despite the hefty £6.50 pricetag, I decided on Blood Orange Sorbet for dessert. A refreshing and palate cleansing pudding, if a little simple.

With understated charm and historic allure, Kitty Fishers is the type of restaurant where you may see a famous face, but everyone is far too civilised to make a big fuss of it. A meal for two will be pricey and, although much of the food we tried was really tasty, I think there are some recipe improvements to make before this establishment completely deserves its cult status.

More information on Kitty Fisher’s here: www.kittyfishers.com

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