Paradise, Sunday Bloody Sunday, Kensal Green

I assumed Kensal Green was miles away from Central London civilisation, but it turns out to be just a few moments drive from the heart of Notting Hill and Portobello. I cannot believe I have never discovered this venue before…  the perfect West London pub and weekend hide out. I was amazed by the decadent interiors, glorious chandeliers, and rustic chic décor. Paradise is equally popular as a nighttime club-bar-hangout and as a relaxed place to chat over a lazy meal during the day.

The Sunday Recovery Session is a brilliant brunch concept based around the popular weekend hangover cocktail, the Bloody Mary. Each of the three courses use this drink as inspiration, and head chef Tim Payne has created a marvellous menu making the most it. The recently launched brunch menu is only available on Sundays 12noon to 8pm, and judging by the turn out last week you’ll need to get there quick.

Hungover guests can mix their very own Bloody Marys just to their preference – after ordering a tray of vodka and tomato juice is delivered to your table along with favourite additions: Worcestershire sauce, horseradish, crushed black pepper, lemon juice, tabasco sauce, sherry, sea salt and celery sticks. Though this sounds like enormous fun we ordered just a ready made glass each, mixed to perfection by the accomplished bartender.

All in all this meal was almost faultless, a feast of delicious food with top ingredients and really intelligent cooking. I have to admit, for a gastropub I was amazed and delighted with the high quality and class of Paradise.

The starters are light and fresh, I tried the Bob Kitchens’ Goat’s Curd, beetroot & watercress salad, honey and sherry dressing and my guest chose the Beef Carpaccio with sun dried tomatoes, rocket & parmesan. I was appreciative of the small portions (full roasts were up next) and polished my salad off within seconds… a lovely combination of soft salty goat’s cheese, sweet beetroot and crunchy watercress. I would have liked a touch more dressing as it felt a little dry, but I guess it left me wanting more! The Beef looked divine, a pretty plate of wafer thin red pink meat sprinkled with rocket and parmesan.

I rarely order roasts in restaurants, it is a tricky meal to perfect every aspect of in a hectic weekend kitchen. Paradise offer Suckling Pig, Free Range Chicken, Rib of Beef, Rumb of Lamb or the vegetarian Butternut Squash alternative. We chose the Chicken and Lamb, though the Pork was a close runner-up. The Roast was served with all the trimmings: lovely vegetables – carrot, cabbage and broccoli, puffy Yorkshire puddings and amazingly yummy duck fat roast potatoes. It was the perfect plate of food, covered in Bloody Mary sweet gravy. My only complaints: I would have preferred my lamb cooked for slightly longer, and the food arrived not quite hot enough, so that within a few minutes it was only lukewarm.

Puddings were spectacular. I had one of those awful situations where I wanted to try a mouthful of each option. Our waitress was so lovely she probably would have let me if I’d asked extra nicely, but feeling my jeans getting tighter I resisted and opted for just one, the White chocolate, pistachio & orange mille-feuille. It was without a doubt one of the best desserts I have ever tried. Aside from including some of my favourite flavours, it was immaculately designed and presented… thin white chocolate discs encrusted with splinters of pistachio nuts, with orange cream, insanely good homemade pistachio ice-cream (a perfect shade of pale green) and a stunning blood orange crisp made from crystallised orange. My friend tried the indulgent Valrhona chocolate tart, brandy snap basket & condensed milk ice cream… she seemed delighted as she managed to make her way through it despite feeling incredibly full, proof that it tasted exceedingly good. We finished with strong coffees delivered promptly with the desserts.

Paradise is a heavenly gastropub, and their brunch menu is one of the best I’ve tried. Visit the website for more information here.

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