The Old Manor, Bradford-upon-Avon

I am always on the lookout for idyllic weekend break destinations in the UK. A few weeks ago I found The Old Manor Hotel, a charming and characterful establishment just fifteen minutes by train from central Bath. It is a historic building in Bradford-upon-Avon restored to its former glory by new owners, Tudor and Lucy Hopkins (and Camber the dog) who previously part-owned the Gallivant Hotel. They purchased this property in July 2013 hoping to have a hotel that they could completely call their own.

Known to be part of the Abbess of Glastonbury’s estate, the present Manor House was originally built in classic Queen Anne style before being upgraded in the 17th century. The quirks and detailing give the building particular appeal. With 21 bedrooms of varying sizes and décor, there are standard, superior, deluxe and family rooms to choose from. We were in a lovely spacious deluxe room (which felt more like a suite) in the main Manor house. Ultra clean and fresh with white walls, dainty artwork and endearing vintage furniture, it was a pleasure to spend the night here. Accentuating the remaining old features of the building there were hints of exposed beams and brickwork adding a touch of farmhouse chic. Through the prettily adorned dressing room was the bathroom, with a big bath and shower and Neal’s Yard toiletries.

The couple recently recruited Head Chef, Matthew Briddon of River Café and Paul Heathcotes – he is in charge of the kitchens and has big plans to make this hotel a foodie destination, with an extended restaurant and cookery school in the future. Speaking to Matthew, I found his vision and ambition inspiring, hearing about the plans for a snail farm, their own livestock, fruit orchards and herb gardens… a true farm to fork experience. So far they are making good use of the assets on site, a few beehives for floral honey and a small cold smokery for flavouring fish and other ingredients. We enjoyed a feast in the humble but lovely dining room on Friday night. Sitting by the roaring fire, sipping local ale and enjoying wholesome thoughtfully prepared food, I couldn’t think of anywhere else I would rather be. There were so many food highlights, I remember the innovative Smoked ham hock with ploughman’s garnish: a reinvention of the classic British sandwich, it had a great mix of textures with tangy sauce and irresistible crispy cheese bites. The main course Confit belly pork, pig’s cheek ragu and wilted greens had a sensational flavour and aroma though it was incredibly rich and I was sad not to be able to finish it. A simple homemade Bakewell Tart with clotted cream was served for dessert with soothing fresh mint tea.

Next morning we were awake bright and early with the chirping birds, early enough to see the huge orange sun rise through the trees, setting the sky alight. After a quick refreshing shower, we went down for a cup of coffee and breakfast in the Milking Parlour. Rustic chunky bread rolls stuffed with grilled bacon and ground pepper, orange juice and fresh milky coffee.

Visiting and experiencing the Old Manor Hotel was truly memorable for me; as we walked away though the sunny countryside I thought about how much I would love to have my own little hotel to love and nurture. We can expect great things from this motivated and creative team in the future, I cannot wait to hear about their progress.

More information on The Old Manor and book here: www.oldmanorhotel.com

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled first class with First Great Western train from London Paddington to Bath Spa, book here.

Many thanks to the Bath Tourist board for their help with this trip, more information here.

Lowry Spa, Manchester

Whilst staying at the Lowry Hotel I was tempted to remain in the building all weekend. The weather in Manchester is often dreary, wet and cold and this homely five star establishment offers a warm and luxurious place to relax and indulge.

After a long, deep sleep and a leisurely breakfast, I visited the Lowry spa. It was relatively early on a Sunday morning and couples were wandering around enjoying the facilities and rejuvenating treatments. Although there is no pool, the spa offers sauna and relaxation rooms so guests use these as they wish.

I enjoyed a Signature Back and Scalp massage followed by an express therapeutic facial. I can never decide between massage and facial so this was the perfect compromise for me. My softly spoken therapist managed to instantly calm me, and it helped that the bed was wonderfully warm and enveloping. As I directed, she pressed through my knots with strength, methodically pushing through the tension in my upper back and shoulders. Gradually the tightness loosened as she patiently massaged oil into my muscles. Then she moved onto my head to relieve all pressure in my scalp.

It felt like an added bonus afterwards when it was time for the mini facial. Cleansing and exfoliating (a step I fail to remember regularly in my skin routine!) my face instantly felt fresher and brighter. A moisturising mask left my cheeks plump and my forehead silky soft. It was lovely to leave the treatment room with a clear head and relaxed body. I could then go and read a magazine and enjoy the rare opportunity for total tranquillity.

With many alluring spa packages and day offers, the Lowry spa is ideal for both staying guests and outside visitors… the perfect retreat away from the loud and lively city.

More information on the Lowry Hotel spa here.

Many thanks to Manchester Tourist Board for their help with this trip, more information here.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with Virgin Trains.

Typical journey time between London and Manchester is just 2h 7m on one of the state-of-the-art tilting trains, six days a week. Engineering works slow things down a little on Sunday mornings, but by lunchtime they’re operating services – at 2h15m – just a shade slower than Monday to Saturday. Trains every 20 minutes, six and a half days a week.

Booking in advance and travelling off-peak is the best way to get great deals – including some fantastic First Class bargains. Single fares start at: Advance Standard £12.50  and Advance First £38.00, book here.

 

Things to do in Rome

TO SEE

Vatican City (Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica): Take the metro to Ottaviano. From there it’s a three minute walk to the great walls of the Vatican City where you queue to buy tickets and enter the Vatican museums and Sistine chapel. Resist the queue-jumping promises from the commission-hungry tour guides and wait in the fast moving queue. Or to avoid the queues and the hassle completely, buy tickets in advance.

After weaving your way through the scores of tourists and amateur photographers in the Vatican Museums to the ultimate, wondrous Sistine Chapel, follow the city wall to the epic St Peter’s Basilica.

MAXXI (Contemporary Art Gallery): Back onto the metro for two stops to Flaminio then jump on a U2 tram up Via Flaminia four stops along where you’ll discover the wildly creative MAXXI museum. Opened in 2010 and designed by Zaha Hadid Architects, the building itself is as impressive as the art within. Free entry with the Roma Pass.

Aventino Keyhole: Hike up the hill to Aventino, and peek through the keyhole near Santa Sabina church to spy an amazing view of St Peter’s.

Coliseum: The colossal stadium ruins are familiar from Ridley Scott’s film, Gladiator, and are just as impressive in real life. Skip the queue with a Roma Pass.

TO DO

Trevi Fountain: this spectacular fountain and sculpture is hidden among the cobbled streets of Tridente. Throw a coin in and make a wish.

Porta Portese flea market: Rome’s biggest and most famous flea market is found just across the Ponte Sublicio Bridge on Sunday mornings. Search through the stalls to pick up a bargain.

Spa at Boscolo Palace: After a day on foot seeing all the city’s sights, enjoy a relaxing massage in the oriental Kamispa at the Boscolo Palace Roma Hotel.

TO SHOP

Fendi: Pop into the flagship store of Italian designer brand, Fendi, and gawp at the luxury clothing and accessories on display.

Super: Located in the artesian area of Monti, Super is a lovely little concept store selling unique clothes and fun gifts.

Spiezia: Rumoured to be one of the smallest stores in Rome, Spiezia has been run by optician Alessandro Spiezia since 1967. Stocking prestigious designer brands alongside his own glasses and sunglasses, this store is sure to satisfy even the most demanding and unconventional of clientele.

Riga Dritto: This recently opened stationery shop from Milan stocks the cutest pencils and pens from Japan, and pretty paper products made in Italy.

D Cube Heritage: As night falls on Piazza del Fico, this small store lights up the street with its stylish homeware from Italian brands such as Seletti, and some quirky imported speciality brands including Falcon.

TO EAT AND DRINK

Antico Caffe Greco: Founded in 1760, this opulent cafe on the main street of Via dei Condotti is always crammed full of tourists but I recommend standing at the bar with the locals to enjoy a strong espresso.

Pipero Al Rex: Stop off for a speedy Michelin-star lunch at an intimate friendly restaurant. I recommend Chef Pipero’s famous carbonara with thick cut chunks of bacon, rich creamy egg-yolk sauce and a sprinkling of the very best Parmigiano.

Trattoria Settimio all’Arancia: Aperitivo is a must in Italy. As they are laying out the tables for dinner, enjoy a delicious glass of Prosecco and an accompanying plate of prosciutto while watching the sun set.

00100 Pizza: This inconspicuous little pizza outlet was one of the few open at lunchtime on a Sunday (believe me, we did our research). From the owner of renowned pizzeria Sforno comes this chunky, cheap pizza sold by the slice. I loved the Patate e Pancetta and the Classico Suppli with irresistible arancini-esque balls of deliciousness.

Pompi: There is only one place to try Tiramisu in Rome. Tourists and locals alike queue for this speciality at Pompi. Available in different varieties, the boxed dessert costs just €3,50 and can be enjoyed in or out. Get there early to avoid disappointment. Who said Tiramisu for breakfast wasn’t a good idea?

Bar del Fico: Late night drinks are best enjoyed in the atmospheric Piazza del Fico. If you’re hungry, dine in the super trendy restaurant, otherwise enjoy a cocktail or beer in the chic Parisian-style bar.

Frigidarium: There is always a queue outside Frigidarium. Stop off on your way home from a night out for a creamy gelato, available in an array of tempting flavours.

TO STAY

Boscolo Palace: There are three  Boscolo hotels in Rome, the 5 star palace has a great range of facilities on offer. The large, luxurious rooms will provide an ideal home for your weekend in Rome.

Many thanks to the Rome Tourist Board for their help with this trip:

www.turismoroma.it and Tourist information service: Roma 0039 060608.