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Located in Portloe, amongst quaint candy coloured cottages, it is an easy trip down on First Great Western Trains from London to St Austell. There is blissfully little to do but eat and walk, while admiring the beautiful Cornish scenery and the enviably peaceful lifestyle.
We were lucky to enjoy dappled sunshine throughout the weekend, so long walks along the cliffs and trips into the town of Truro were particularly idyllic. The Lugger Hotel was a sanctuary to come home to, indulgent and yet untouched, ideal for a rejuvenating break.
On arrival we were greeted enthusiastically and offered tea on the balcony outside, so that we could delight in our first glimpse of the endless sea.
Our room was perfect. A pretty, well arranged place to slump and relax, with luxurious but unpretentious amenities. Overlooking the rippling waters, I felt like I was toppling over the edge of the world. In our bright and airy room the windows displayed the sea and port from every angle and a terrace balcony provided a breezy place to sit and read outside. The en suite bathroom wasn’t over complicated or fancy but quite simply a lovely place to soak in a deep bath, wash in a deluge shower and wrap up in a white towelling robe after using the fragrant Gilchrist and Soames toiletries; everything designed for maximum comfort and pleasure, minimum fuss.
It is blissfully silent in Portloe so at dinner I was surprised to see a full room of guests keenly eating, chatting and enjoying the Lugger at suppertime. It is a wonderfully atmospheric restaurant, polite but friendly, smart but relaxed. Water and a bottle of fruity, refreshing white wine were brought to our table along with a basket of gastronomic breads of which Cajun spiced and poppy seed with cheddar were our favourites. Our lovely waitress Kirsty seemed eager to meet our every need.
The food is good enough to rival a Michelin starred restaurant… delicately presented but rich in flavour and taste, I could not fault it. We chose from the regularly changing menu of seasonal dishes, carefully compiled to promote the fresh ingredients. Starters arrived on extra hot plates, artistically arranged. Rotolo of butternut squash, cream cheese and pesto for me and Crispy squid with sweet chilli and vegetable salad for my friend. The dishes were composed with flair and great attention to detail, I savoured every bite. My rotolo was a vibrant mix of flavours, the sweet crunchy butternut squash and soft creamy cheese. I tasted the squid – it was divine, the thinnest crispiest battered morsels with an equally yummy salad.
For mains we both ordered the irresistibly delicious Venison loin, tender and flavoursome and served with addictive horseradish dauphinoise potatoes, a slightly curious spinach mousse and the sweetest gravy. Embarrassingly our plates were scraped so clean that it is possible our waiter thought we’d licked them. The list of desserts featured most of my favourites, I had to resist asking for a taste of each pudding on offer! I chose the Panna cotta.
The Lugger’s thoughtful touches make one’s stay memorable from start to finish. When we arrived back at our room after supper, I was amazed to see the bed remade and two glasses with marshmallows and hot chocolate waiting to be devoured. The giant bed was lined in gloriously soft linens with plump pillows, the type of bed you may never emerge from, as it is just too comfortable to even consider rising. The sea calms and lulls you into a deep and immersive sleep… just what I needed. With the gentle murmuring of the water outside our window I slept that night better than ever before.
After our amazing dinner, I was sure breakfast would be equally impressive. An array of fresh miniature pastries, yoghurt and fruit compote, Cornish bacon and sausages with wholesome toast, strong creamy cappuccinos and vibrant freshly squeezed orange juice (that I greedily couldn’t resist a second glass of). It was made with the highest quality ingredients and presented on plates fit for the Queen. We went out for one final walk along the coast, it was a lovely end to a blissful stay.
The perfect weekend away from London can be found only four hours train journey away in the idyllic Lugger Hotel, I long to return.
More information and to book visit the Lugger website here.
I travelled courtesy of First Great Western trains.
All information about First Great Western train fares and timings here.
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