Tag Archives: Michelin star

Brasserie Chavot, Mayfair

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Eric Chavot is a French legend, and the Michelin stars have followed him to every kitchen he has stepped foot in. Following stints in various hotels and renowned restaurants in London he has opened his own brasserie, in his own style, on Conduit Street W1. Previously critic AA Gill has proclaimed his cooking “as good as you can eat in London” and Marco Pierre White described him as “the best in London without a doubt”. So I guess it is hardly surprising that his newest venture, Brasserie Chavot is such a success. I eagerly antipated the culinary excellence, counting down the days to my visit.

To start we opted for the bizarre but intriguing, Snails Bouruignon with meatball and potato espuma and the less complicated Charcuterie selection. The snails arrived in a magical steaming pot of foam, wondrous layers of meaty goodness and creamy sauce, ideal for a cold winter meal. The feast of charcuterie was a challenge to finish, prettily presented on a newspaper covered board, every kind of salami with cornichons and terrine. I couldn’t help thinking what good value this array was for just £11.50.

Brasserie Chavot offers delicate and delicious recipes, the kind of dishes I tear out of magazines and put up on my notice board in the hope that one day I might make the effort and try them out in my own kitchen. Poussin for instance, why have I never tried this dainty little bird at home? It is such a treat… I relished the garlic and lemon drenched meat and the crispy, crunchy, salty skin. The star of the show though, as our waiter had subtly pointed out, was the rump of Oison venison with honey glazed root vegetables. This dish was cooked to perfection, and I am still regretting not choosing It myself. My guest was silent as he devoured the soft rich caramelised meat and vegetables. My regular mouthful stealing caused a Jackson Pollock-esque mess on the white tablecloth, but it was worth it. Creamy mash, pomme frites and broccoli were all just as scrumptious, as I’d expect from a French master of cooking, if I had to choose one it would be the mash which was impressively smooth and silky.

Chavot offers classic French puddings that are executed immaculately. My crème brulee was aromatically flavoured with hundreds of specks of real vanilla, whilst the chocolate-caramel ice-cream was a childish delight with a touch of sophistication.

No-one is pretentious or pompous in this restaurant… a bustling beautiful dining room filled with foodies enjoying faultless creations. Deservedly Michelin starred food in a blissfully casual environment, Brasserie Chavot is my kind of restaurant, I can’t wait to return.

More information and book here: brasseriechavot.com

The Hind’s Head, Bray

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When Heston bought the last remaining traditional pub in Bray in 2010, locals complained that the small village was being turned into “Hestonworld”. This self-taught British chef now has three establishments in Bray, The Fat Duck, Hind’s Head and The Crown, alongside his more metropolitan eatery in London’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Dinner. Despite the odd grumble no one can deny that Heston Blumenthal has single-handedly revolutionised the UK restaurant scene and transformed our perceptions of cooking and eating.

Unable to afford the time and money needed to secure a table at The Fat Duck, I travelled to Bray for a weekend in December to enjoy a breath of fresh air and some Heston food at the Hind’s Head instead. It is a 15th century pub in the heart of the picturesque village of Bray, conveniently located just five minutes from Maidenhead in Berkshire. Here Heston combines his unique approach to cooking and seasonal produce with good old English culinary traditions offering historic dishes with a twist of innovation and creativity. Head Chef Kevin Love creates lovely looking plates of wholesome and delicious food in a menu that focuses on British favourites. Locally sourced ales and sublime cocktails provide an impressive drinks menu.

Locals love to meet here, whilst visitors travel far to experience Heston’s food without the fuss and mortgage sized bill. When I visited this homely pub, I couldn’t help wondering about Heston’s acquisition of the property, why a quaint little pub in Bray? The world-renowned chef explains that this pub has always been special to him… it was where he enjoyed a much-needed pint after a stressful service on Sundays in the Fat Duck. When the opportunity arose in 2004 to take it over he jumped at the chance eager to pay homage to the pub’s 500 year history with recipes inspired by Britain’s rich culinary heritage. Initially sceptical, I was amazed by the Hind’s Head… a venue which manages to sustain all the atmosphere and history whilst showcasing Heston’s faultless food.

Homemade crusty brown bread with crushed sea salt butter was in danger of filling us up all too soon. We abstained from a second piece, the main courses deserved our full appetite. Roast meals are nearly always a disappointment when you eat them anywhere but home… aside from when Heston is cooking of course. Roast Turkey with chestnut and prune stuffing, roast potatoes and green beans, cabbage and curried parsnips was the perfect plate, each component cooked and seasoned beautifully. I was particularly amazed by the vegetables which were coated in a subtle creamy sauce, and the roast potatoes which were so crispy-edged they tasted as if they had been triple cooked like chips. Free Range Pork Collar with Butternut Squash Puree and Spinach was equally divine. The lean cut of pork was full of flavour, and the sauce (it tasted like a red wine reduction) was sweet and smooth and so tasty I considered licking my plate clean. My only quibble? The plates could have been a little hotter, as the food turned cold too quickly… and believe me I could not have eaten any faster!

For dessert we took a gamble and tried the highly recommended Treacle Sponge with Lemon Sauce and Cream and Whipped Chocolate with Hazelnut Ice-cream and Orange. Both had a Christmas theme, but I found the citrusy flavours a bit contradictory and preferred the sponge without the lemon sauce. Whipped chocolate is for cocoa lovers, a dense mousse decorated with satisfyingly crunchy nuts. The sponge was wonderfully light and airy and the sweetness was nicely cut by the cool cream.

For the ultimate, unrivalled pub lunch there is nowhere better than the Hind’s Head. Get yourself to Bray pronto.

More information and book here: www.hindsheadbray.com

River Cafe, Hammersmith

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As December approached last year, I found I was being repeatedly asked: ‘where is the best place for a work Christmas meal and party’? The specifications were always challenging: big enough, cosy enough, special enough, posh enough, cheap enough, private dining facilities, entire exclusivity, location… there is so much to consider, and it is a daunting responsibility to choose the venue, date and menus to satisfy the whole company.

London venues fill up fast and the prices escalate as workers all over town become more desperate for the perfect venue. This year I had my work celebrations at a very special restaurant, The River Café in Hammersmith. On a misty Wednesday lunchtime the setting was bleak and beautiful by the river. The open plan restaurant looks industrial from the exterior, slightly like a swimming baths. But inside the dining room is light and fresh with white draped tables and a psychedelic neon pink oven at the rear of the restaurant.

We were seated at the back in the lovely private dining room which seats up to 18 guests. The dining room has its own entrance with views onto the terrace and into the open kitchen. Cheese lovers will enjoy looking at the glass fronted cheese room which exhibits a selection of unusual Italian cheeses. The waiters were kind and patient with our rowdy group! We started with flutes of Prosecco, battered artichokes and pumpkin bruschetta. For starters a selection of antipasti were delivered to the table – highlights were the plump and creamy buffalo mozzarella and delicately smoky prosciutto ham.

Known for its exquisite homemade pasta, I persuaded our waiter to allow me to have a River Café pasta dish, despite its absence on the set menu. The buttery Agnoli packages of pasta filled with a rich and aromatic mix of rabbit, pheasant, pancetta, bay and Il Balzo Chianti Rufina was divine, I could have eaten double the amount. Other successes round the table were the thick-cut roast veal chop with capers, sage, lemon peel, Prosciutto di Parma and Risina beans and the chargrilled, marinated leg of lamb with smashed pumpkin & potato and hot olive & anchovy sauce. It was a feast of Italian delights.

Dessert for me was a disappointment, I found the pannacotta with pomegranate sloppy and unappetisingly presented. I looked adoringly at the plate of cheese that my neighbour was devouring. Wine was carefully and expertly chosen throughout the meal, complementing the food and flavours.

The River Café is one of the longest running, most successful fine dining restaurants in London, and I was impressed with every aspect of our experience here.