Pret-a-Diner, Italians do it Better

Pret-a-diner is the most exciting dining concept of the year, but you’d be very mistaken if you thought it was just a culinary experience. The German company Kofler & Kompanie first set up their successful pop-up restaurant, the Minotaur last year at the Old Vic Tunnels – celebrities, foodies and critics were all begging for a table. I went along for the opening of Minotaur but regretfully never had the chance to try the food. This year I ignorantly turned up at the same location for this season’s ‘Italians do it Better’… and had to sprint across London to find the new, correct venue.

Through the doors of Mayfair’s 50 St James’s is a magical world of temptation and titillation. Pret-a-diner has temporarily occupied this tired and dated building transforming it into a wild and wonderful place of mysterious allure… opulent and extravagant decor, eccentric and thought-provoking art and best of all, some of Italy’s most talented Michelin chefs have been invited for a ten day residency each, including Viviana Varese, Norbert Niederkofler, Accursio Craparo and the Costardi brothers. There is a choice of two menus each evening – a classic and a more creative option.

The main hall is set up like a magnificent and crazy basketball pitch lit to the extreme and dressed with wacky contemporary artworks. It’s designed by Benjamin and Philip Wyatt with an art exhibition by the prestigious Gazelli Art House and fabulous installations including some Emin-esque neon signs by Olivia Steele, and other works by Monica Bonvicini, Aron Demetz, Vittorio Corsini and Giovani Ozzola. Downstairs the stylish cocktail bar is controlled by cocktail coinesseurs 69 Colebrooke Row which I was lucky enough to review quite recently.

I went to try Viviana Varese‘s simple but innovative menu on her opening evening.  A group of excited individuals, we sat at a beautifully decorated wooden table, with the pret a diner newspaper, Il Corriere as the unusual place mat. The set menu is priced at £75 per person, which is expensive for a concept that intends to make fine dining fun, however after the experience it seemed worth it… and is certainly very memorable.

Amuse bouches arrived first along with steaming brown paper bags of bread. To start the Viviana presents ‘Spoonwise’ a soft and fleshy zucchini flower, stuffed with fluffy creamy ricotta and floating in vibrant light tomato water. It was my ideal first course, light and full of flavour… courgette flowers are seriously underrated, paired with the right flavours they are an exemplary ingredient.

I avoided most of the next course, due to my aversion to seafood. ‘King Polpo’ is octopus with a duet of potatoes elegantly arranged in a glass with a succulent sauce, the dish is a bizarre combination of hot and cold, each mouthful is different. The table nodded in appreciation, apparently the octopus was the softest ever tasted.

The main was perhaps the most imaginative and artistic course: a clever dish with duck breast, foie gras and raspberry. Rich and fruity with a wonderful cut of meat and creamy foie gras… the raspberry took some getting used to but was a distinctive and attractive accompanying flavour. There is the option to ‘pimp it like an Italian’ – upgrading the dish to beef fillet with parsnip, edamame and Asia jus, but for this privilege you must find a further £13!

Dessert was my favourite, and after finishing my own, I proceeded to take donations from the rest of the table, I savoured every mouthful. The ‘Golden Dome’ (pastieries, candid lemon-orange peel and vanilla) is a light, airy and sweet pudding, a genius combination of vanilla and citrus components.

The food is the star of Pret-a-Diner, but it is about so much more… when I visited I was overwhelmed by the sensory overload, an explosion of invention, creativity and expertise. I cannot wait to see and taste whatever Kofler & Kompanie have next in store for us…

Pret a Diner is open until 30th June and The Costardi Brothers’ menu has just begun. Christian and Manuel Costardi run Cinzia of Vercelli, a hotel and restaurant that has been in their family for generations; their motto is ‘tradition and innovation’ and their dishes are their way of expressing their love for the important people in their lives. Their menu promises to be spectacular.

For more information and to book visit: www.pretadiner.com

Burger & Lobster, Mayfair

Move over Meat Liquor there’s a new restaurant we want to queue for…

Clarges Street has been busier than usual recently, and for one reason only, Burger and Lobster, the restaurant that has made celebrity status overnight by serving up only two options: Burger, Lobster!

The concept is perfectly simple and practical, which is perhaps exactly why it has succeeded so effortlessly. By offering minimal choice, and serving the very best in those categories, there is very little not to like and an awful lot to adore.

I went along at half six and was lucky to be seated straight away at a great window table (a serious advantage when taking blogging photos). Like most diners, who have done their time in the queue, I wanted to know what the fuss was all about. Taking a brief investigatory tour round the restaurant there were no revelations, it is a cool diner, cosy and comfortable – a kitchen and counter at the back was chock-a-block with orange lobsters, and people laughing, generally having a good time.

A brown paper drinks menu arrived, advertising a variety of wine, beer and cocktails. We chose a cocktail each; these are split into two lists to pair conveniently with lobster or burger. I sipped on my rather strong ‘Bull and Bear’ made from Woodford Reserve, blackberries, raspberries, mure and Zinfandel while my friend chose the refreshing 10cc, a gin based cocktail made with Tanqueray 10, lemon, cucumber, chamomile syrup and soda – much sweeter than my masculine cocktail.

For food there is no menu, instead a chirpy waitress told us the options: burger (optional bacon & cheese) £20; small £20 or large £30 lobster (grilled or steamed), or lobster roll £20; each dish is served with chips and salad. I wanted to try the burger and lobster for review purposes, I was having a burger so my friend had no choice in the matter but to have lobster. They arrived swiftly (I’m guessing they like a quick turnaround for numerous sittings a night). The burger was juicy and huge, layered with oozing cheese, crispy bacon, a deliciously seasoned patty, gherkin, tomato, salad and onion slammed into a homemade brioche bun. Not the best I’ve tried, but very good. The lobster was beautiful, amazed by sea creatures I found the whole thing fascinating with its giant claws and ingoing body. It was glistening in melted butter and sprinkled with seasoning: it looked delish. The chips were skinny and crispy and the petite salads were surprisingly yummy, thanks to excess parmesan and a good dressing.

Before leaving we shared a Bailey’s Mousse with salted caramel sauce, it was saccharin sweet, with a kick from the Baileys… a few mouthfuls were enough to satisfy an after dinner sugar craving.

Desperately trying to find the time and appetite in my busy schedule, I certainly felt a self imposed pressure to enjoy B&L. However it didn’t disappoint, but I do feel a little sad that the overwhelming anticipation to try London’s hottest new restaurant has now evaporated.

‘No reservation’ restaurants encourage spontaneity, however for Burger & Lobster you’ll have to plan an occasion when you have the time and patience to wait, because with food, concept and reputation this hot, I think the queue is going to be around for a while.

Visit the Burger & Lobster website here.

Michael John Salon, Mayfair

The Michael John Salon is grand and impressive; it is located on the corner of Albemarle Street. Even when I visited on a Tuesday afternoon the place was buzzing with activity – stylists and clients all milling around, a lovely friendly atmosphere. My stylist for the day was Rosa, the Junior Artistic Director at MJ. She was absolutely adorable, very jolly and smiley, and made my time at the salon a pleasure.

I was given an invigorating hair-wash before a miraculous treatment was applied, to be precise the Elasticizer treatment by Philip Kingsley. This restores elasticity and bounce to hair, and can be used on all hair types. The product provides UV protection even after washing and helps to prolong the life of colour treatments. Rosa mentioned that although results will be visible after only one application, it will be improved with continued use.

After the lotion was fully applied to my hair right through to the roots, I was put under heat for twenty-five minutes and left with a pile of glossy magazines. I was a little bit disappointed not to be offered a drink – the fresh juices on the menu sounded so delicious. Rosa returned regularly to check up on the progress, and when she was happy took me over to the sink to wash it out and condition my hair. The results were wonderful, the Elasticizer is the deepest, gentlest form of conditioner, it strengthens to prevent snapping and revives dull lifeless hair, leaving it extra glossy and shiny.

Before blowdrying Rosa gave my hair a quick trim, just snipping the scruffy ends off the strands to make it neater and healthier. As I always opt for curly or wavy blow-dries I decided this time to go straight as Rosa encouraged. This look was much slicker and cooler, a smart blonde bob. Running my hands through my hair it felt like my hair had never been coloured before, it was so soft and shiny.

Before leaving Rosa offered to show me round the huge salon, the full tour included a peek in at the calming treatment rooms, the area for colouring and even a room for hair extensions. Downstairs a lovely bar is available for guests to use… there is nothing this salon doesn’t have!

Hopefully I will be returning to Michael John soon to review Emma Hardie’s luxurious facials, so look out for that review in the near future!

Visit the Michael John website for my information and to book here.