Atul Kochhar’s fine Indian restaurant Benares is pitched just right. And although I can’t vouch for the regular a la carte menu, I was very impressed by the Chef Season miniatures I tried there last week. Since opening in 2003, Benares has offered modern,stylish and refined Indian cuisine. Atul is passionate about redefining the common perceptions of Indian cooking and with the Chef Season, he welcomes some of the country’s leading cooks to create a series of fusion menus to be served at the sophisticated Benares Bar.
Each chef works closely with Atul to prepare a menu of small plates reflecting a combination of both Atul’s famous flavours and their own signature style. Culinary masters such as Anna Hansen (The Modern Pantry), Richard Corrigan (Corrigan’s) and David Thompson (Nahm) have all been involved.
I was lucky enough to visit and taste both Dhruv Baker’s menu and the few special dishes created by Atul.
Dhruv’s Menu
Seared Pigeon Breast with Spiced Pea Puree and Tamarind Sauce
Mussalam Lamb, Saffron Pomme Anna and Beetroot Chutney
Squid Stuffed with Fennel Seed, Chilli, Salmon and Prawn Mousselline
Pan Fried Bream with Compound Butter, Saffron and Cumin, Buttered Crushed Potatoes
Crispy Aubergine with Truffled Honey and Bhartha Puree
Pan Fried Duck Breast, Black Cardamon Plum Sauce and Pickled Carrot Puree
Dhruv’s Feature Cocktail:
Bacardi Oakheart, fresh Cloudy Apple Juice, freshly squeezed Lime Juice, Angostura Bitters, Dhurv’s homemade Spices Syrup.
Atul’s Menu
Blue Cheese, Fresh Figs, Quince Chutney on Naan Bread
Apricot, Yoghurt, and Stuffed Spinach Patty
Chicken Tikka Parcels, Damson Chutney
3 dishes for £21.00
The tapas-esque portions arrived in trio sets, presented on smart dark wooden trays. The food exceeded my expectations, and I can’t remember enjoying a Michelin star tasting session quite so much ever. The small quantities allow guests to indulge without feeling gluttonous, and food always tastes better when you are left wanting more. The refined, compact flavours of each recipe had been finely tuned to achieve spectacular dishes. From Dhruv’s menu the crunchy crackling aubergine crisps were stand-out… I even begged the waiter to explain the recipe and process in the hope of creating these clever canapés at home. I also particularly remember the lamb and duck, both of which were cooked immaculately with innovative and inventive seasoning to perfectly match the qualities of the meat. The accompanying cocktail was surprisingly delicious and well suited, a rum based kind of Daiquiri flavoured with a unique spices syrup.
Atul’s menu was equally tasty and even more wacky. The Indian inspired pizza was a hit with my guest and I loved the soft richly flavoured spinach patty, but it was the chicken tikka parcels that really had the wow factor. Warm and buttery chicken encased in the lightest crispiest filo pastry, totally divine.
And just as I was dreaming about the prospect of a sweet mouthful, a little afterthought arrived at our table… petit fours of biscuit, chocolate and fruity rice crispy squares.
This Chef Season menu was absolutely delicious, with the finesse of French cooking, the boldness of British cooking and the essence and flavours of India. I’m desperate to return to review the full Benares menu now.
Visit the Benares website here for more information.

















