There is so much to say about Sketch, and so much that has already been said. One thing is for sure… it is unlike any other venue in London, with enough style and swagger to make you quake in your boots. Pierre Gagnaire is the Willy Wonka of the restaurant world creating magical and imaginative food that will make your heart race and your jaw drop.

This Mayfair restaurant wows from the instant you step inside…  beautiful wallpapers, glittering lighting, impressive sculptures and wonderfully wacky modern artwork fills this converted Georgian townhouse.

The most desirable of the dining options is undoubtedly the Michelin awarded Lecture Room & Library. The menu has a distinctive style, adapted from Gagnaire’s renowned eatery in Paris. Each of the a la carte dishes is presented as a series of culinary ideas…. a very thoughtful way of cooking which fully explores the flavour and uses of the ingredients.

After exquisitely inventive cocktails in the waiting parlour we were escorted to our table. The meal began in a flurry of craziness: plates, bowls and dishes of artful nibbles, miniatures to intrigue the palate.

My White Autumn starter was more bizarre than brilliant, a study on the flavours of cauliflower, onions and grapes… paired with lassi ice-cream, camembert chantilly and bechamel. The wintery whiteness of the food was startling and beautiful, but the tepid temperature almost alarming. The Hare Terrine option was more appetising… an assortment of more familiar flavours, the sweet onion gratin was a particularly delicious component.

For main course the meat menu offers: pig, deer, lamb or beef. We chose Pig and Deer, both warming and rich. Contradicting all expectations the meats are presented and adapted to catch the guest out. The duo of star anise and Japanese squash intensified the flavour of the deer loin while the crunchy pig ear with kimchi and black Radish looked and tasted unlike anything I have ever encountered before.

Cheese was perhaps the most titillating course… a dual trolley offering selections of British cheeses and French alternatives. Diners are invited to choose from the British but are treated to slices from both boards. Needless to say it was a delicious exercise in contrast and comparison.

My dessert was a fairground of delights: seven bowls of different shapes and sizes were arranged delicately on the table in front of me ready for tasting. Some were divine, others tastes to acquire… roasted pineapple with ricotta and coconut milk and lemon parfait with olive oil and candied angelica mousseline were particularly memorable.

Prepare for a sensory ride, surprises of every kind await you… as we emerged into the grubby London street, I couldn’t help feeling I was leaving Narnia behind me, an unforgettable world of fabulousness and foolery.

Sketch is found at 9 Conduit Street, W1S 2XG. Book months in advance, save up for years in preparation.

http://sketch.uk.com/