Gresham Four Seasons Restaurant, Budapest

Every building in Budapest seems to have a rich and interesting history; visually the Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel is perhaps one of the most spectacular, with views of the Danube and Chain Bridge. Built in 1906 for Gresham Life Insurance Company, this Art Nouveau edifice has now been transformed into a magnificent, luxurious place to stay.

The Four Seasons Restaurant, The Gresham, has a very good reputation as a stand alone destination as well as a bonus for staying guests. When we visited on a Saturday lunchtime, the place was perfectly organised and smart but silent… and for a long time we appeared to be the only guests for lunch that day.

Our waiter was lovely and very friendly despite the slight language barrier. We were treated to two glasses of Champagne while we perused the carte. Split into various sections, the menu offers some continental choices, traditional Hungarian dishes and an Italian list (the Head Chef is from Italy). We chose a selection, to start Pumpkin soup with homemade raviolini stuffed with cremona mustard and mascarpone cheese and the Proscuitto with fresh tomato bruschetta. For mains: Risotto with crumbly Luganica sausage and the Gresham Burger.

The food was brought to us very promptly, beautifully presented and smelling good. Though the Gresham use top quality ingredients, the food they offer is relaxed and casual, so if you are after ultra-smart fine dining, best to look elsewhere. The pumpkin soup was the star of the meal, thick and flavoursome, it was the perfect winter warmer, filling but healthy. The additional raviolini suited the dish well, and oozed luxurious creamy mascarpone through the soup, it was utterly delicious. The Proscuitto came in a giant portion, too much we thought for a starter, more of a sharing board for a group. I found the meat slightly tough but the cute mini bruschettas were very tasty.

The burgers had been recommended so I felt I had to opt for that, and although it was a nice assortment of flavours with melted cheddar, sauteed onions and mushrooms, the meat was not quite juicy enough for me, even cooked to ‘medium’. The Risotto was a simple dish with small sausage pieces and a creamy parmesan sauce. We were disappointed to find it a bit bland, extra seasoning was needed and the risotto rice was a little too al dente for my preference.

We declined desserts (temptingly on display in the fridges) but did accept a speciality Hungarian dessert cocktail to share… a creamy alcoholic drink which mimics a popular traditional sweet. The Gresham Bar is renowned for its contemporary and quirky cocktails and I was impressed with the variety on offer.

The Gresham Palace is a beautiful building worth visiting even if you can only stay for a quick drink; with incredible surroundings, immaculate service and a lovely vibe, it is indulgent and relaxing.

More information here.

http://www.fourseasons.com/budapest/

Le Cinq, Four Seasons, Paris

Visiting a hotel as special and iconic as the Four Seasons in Paris, I tend to feel like I am flitting about in a feature film – the freshest white roses beautifying every corner, attentive and attractive staff assisting with kind, genuine smiles and music tinkling lyrically down the hall. We cancelled our evening plans to enjoy the heavenly hotel facilities and eat at Le Cinq, the Michelin starred eatery in the palatial dining room.

Entering the elaborate banqueting hall, we had no idea of the fourteen course feast we were about to experience. Despite attempting to dress for the occasion we both immediately felt out of place… this is the type of restaurant where ballgowns ARE appropriate attire for supper. Girls can get away with a simple silk dress but my poor date was asked to wear a suit jacket (which the restaurant have at the ready in their wardrobe for unkempt guests!) Apparently though one size fits all and his slim frame was engulfed in a 50 inch cloak of a coat which he then had to sit draped in for the whole meal. This presented two problems: he was ridiculously overheated and felt terribly awkward (sorry I don’t have a photo), but the situation also provoked in me hysterical and irrepressible giggles for at least the first 30 minutes of the evening.

Once I’d recovered from the hilarity (Le Cinq staff definitely didn’t get the joke) we could commence the meal. Service is exemplary at Le Cinq, every fork is placed to exact specifications, water refilled in moments and the table is set out with such care, it is fit for a King. This precision frightened me a little… all very traditional and smart – I found it difficult to relax. The food was all absolutely beautiful, just as I would expect from French fine dining. There are various menus on offer, we chose from the main menu though our decisions were strongly swayed by the persuasive waiter, obviously the chef wanted us to try very particular dishes.

Bread and miniature amuse bouches were brought every five minutes, delicate little mouthfuls of carefully concocted ingredients… all very light but full of flavour. Starters arrived as a series of intriguing plates and bowls. The chef insisted on us both trying each dish so everything came as a double, amongst all the posh eating implements crowding the table it was all a bit of a squeeze. Girolles Mushrooms and Apricot with fresh almonds and Red Mediterranean Tuna Belly. I am not a fan of fish but found the tuna was remarkably nice, soft but meaty, intensely flavoured with caviar tartar, green apple jelly and wasabi. A tangy vegetable escabeche also arrived which nicely accompanied the fish. The mushroom option came as a total of four separate plates, of which we favoured the warm and comforting broth. Stylishly presented with gold leaf floating on the surface and with a sweet onion and tarragon ravioli within the soup, it was a lovely and inventive recipe.

Our main course was spectacular. We ordered the Milk-fed Lamb Shoulder from the Aveyron Region braised with spices and fresh harissa for 17 hours, with vegetable and coriander tajine. This was a star dish served for two people and was very rustic compared to the rest of the refined dinner. The meat was utterly divine, super soft and tender and deeply flavoured with subtle spices and seasoned beautifully. The meat was carved at the table by our expert waiter and presented to us with fresh vegetables. I found the meat a little fatty for my taste but the flavour truly was sublime and it felt very special.

After the lamb the rest is rather a blur, a cheese course, a glass of the purest water in Europe – particularly interesting and refreshing! And then the series of sweets and desserts. Amaretto Souffle and Jordan Almond was an impressive pudding, generous in size with vibrant ginger and apricot marmalade, almond granita with apricot sorbet, a unique mix of flavours and textures. The pastry chef avoided making the recipe too sweet, which I was very grateful for. Souffle is certainly not an easy recipe to master, unsurprisingly Le Cinq had perfected it and the texture was airy and light, the ideal dessert after a large rich meal. George V style Fraisier was a clever interpretation on the classic tart, served with strawberry granita, sour ewe’s milk sorbet with olive oil. The assortment of ingredients sounds odd, but miraculously combined to create a pretty and well balanced dessert. Saving the best till last it was finally our turn to pick from the sweet trolley. An exciting array of colourful cakes, chocolates and long fat marshmallows, a fun end to the serious meal.

Le Cinq offers fine French cuisine in an exquisite setting, providing all the elements for a memorable and magnificent meal. I recommend staying in the hotel afterwards, trust me after fourteen courses you will need one of their luxurious beds.

More information for Le Cinq here.

http://www.fourseasons.com/paris/dining/

Four Seasons Hotel, Paris

The Four Seasons is one of the most renowned luxury hotel chains, of the branches I have visited this Paris location is perhaps the most exceptional. Standing tall on the prestigious George V Avenue, moments away from the impressive Champs, this beautiful fortress is in the ideal location for a weekend away in the city of love.

Walking into the main hall, I was overwhelmed by the tall ceilings, the bright and airy feel and abundance of fresh white flowers blossoming in every corner. It is the epitome of Parisian elegance. All your worries are instantly alleviated, your bags whisked away by a smartly dressed team and all your needs met by the kind reception staff. We were briefly shown round the ground floor – every room is utterly stunning and remarkable, decorated and arranged with the utmost care and attention, pristine clean and sparkling.

We were guided to floor six where the door was opened to one of the newly decorated suites. A beautiful buttery yellow room, the pale walls and furniture reminded me of the Parisian macaroon shop LaDuree’s dainty displays and pastel coloured cakes.

The Four Seasons’ designers are so clever, our room was decadent but delicate, cosy and yet spacious. There were too many amenities to enjoy in just one night, everything has been thought of. A lavish marble bathroom is a lovely place to relax, with a huge bath, separate power shower and toilet room. Sweet smelling Bulgari toiletries, super soft slippers and terry bathrobes are on hand for your comfort. In the living area modern luxuries are discreet presented: a large interactive television, iPod speakers, CD player and clock/radio. A desk fully kitted out with FS stationery is placed appropriately by the window and bookshelves are filled with gorgeous vintage books, if you do have a moment to read a French classic. I was amazed by the sophisticated and intricate artwork on our bedroom walls. Particularly pretty monochrome prints added a unique flair to the otherwise traditional room.

Never before have I stayed in a room that I loved so much, the character and feel suited me so well. We intended to hit the French nightlife on Friday evening but after retiring upstairs and collapsing exhausted onto the marshmallow bed, we found it impossible to leave our luxurious hotel room. Instead the curtains were drawn and I fell into a deep dreamy sleep.

Breakfast at the Four Seasons was a trip highlight for me. Brought up to our room on a trolley we dined in style refreshed by a gentle breeze from the balcony. Divine plates of fruit, warm flaky croissants and vibrant freshly squeezed orange juice. Sipping the hot frothy cappuccino, it was difficult to imagine being anywhere more indulgent. If there is one meal the French do well, it is breakfast – I savoured every mouthful of the delicious pastries and ripe fruit. Packing up our bags whilst listening to a melancholy Edith Piaf from the speakers, I was devastated to be leaving this glorious accommodation.

The Four Seasons on George V Avenue is a palace of Parisian perfection… I adored every second of my stay in this heavenly hotel.

More information on Four Seasons Paris here.

http://www.fourseasons.com/paris/