Tag Archives: Four Seasons

Things to do in Baku

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Few people know where Azerbaijan is, let alone its capital Baku. This unique country is geographically part of Asia but potentially a member of the European Union. Safe and settled, I felt at ease roaming the streets, wearing skimpy neon pink beachwear and indulging in cocktails. The culture and spirit of Baku is unlike anything I have experienced before… natural and historic sights and seaside delights are nearby while the main city has buzzing restaurants and an impressive art and jazz scene.

To stay

Fairmont Flame Towers – This iconic new hotel is a reference point in Baku city centre.  Amid cypress-lined, café-filled streets, the exceptional Fairmont Baku (part of the iconic Flame Towers complex) has just opened revealing 318 beautiful rooms, unrivalled meeting facilities, exceptional dining and bar options and a soon to open ESPA spa with indoor pool. The views are breathtaking and the service is memorably excellent.

Four Seasons Baku – Perhaps the favourite of the five star international accomodation options, this hotel is a real asset to this cosmopolitan oil capital. Four Seasons presents a Beaux-Art style luxury hotel on the waterfront promenade just steps from the old city. It is a sensational place to stay for business or pleasure trips.

To eat

Mangal – Cheerful and cheap, Mangal is the ideal place to try a traditional and simple Azeri lunch in the old town. Taste the classic dishes like Lamb Lula Kebab and Aubergine Salad.

Chinar – Recommended by most guides as the top dining choice in Baku, Chinar did not disappoint. Offering exquisite Asian food, tasty cocktails and a huge specialty tea collection, it was the most memorable meal of our trip.

Fireworks at The Marriott Absheron – Overlooking the Baku Azadliq Square, the FireWorks Restaurant terrace was buzzing on a hot Friday night. Enjoy superior salads, juicy grills and a glass of something chilled. A relaxed restaurant, with very good (English speaking) service!

To drink

Mugham Klub – After wandering round the idyllic old town of Baku, enjoy a drink and some traditional music in the Mugham Klub, known as the most atmospheric restaurant in the city.

Baku Roasting Company – The Baku Roasting Company is your coffee refuge in Baku. Great food, exceptional service and Baku’s only locally roasted coffee beans set this cafe apart from the rest. There are two branches, and we couldn’t find either for hours, despite acquiring a very determined taxi driver. We eventually did discover the Baku Roasting Company, seemingly unimportant from the front, but inside delicious, wonderfully aromatic coffee.

To see

Miniature book museum – In the old city of Baku resides the only museum in the world dedicated to miniature editions of books. The collection is the project of Zarifa Salahova, who has been collecting for more than thirty years. In 2002 she opened the museum making her collection public and including the donation of a Ukrainian collector, who presented his books to Salahova in 2001.

Fountain Square – The name of the this area derives from the presence of dozens of fountains constructed during the Soviet rule of Azerbaijan. The square is a public gathering place, especially after business hours and during the weekend. With lots of surrounding boutiques, restaurants, shops and hotels, it is the ideal place to hang out and enjoy a drink or ice-cream.

Heydar Aliyev Centre – Perhaps the most curvaceous building in the World, this new fluid structure is quite a sight amongst the surrounding landscape. It is the perfect illustration of Baku’s regeneration activity, complete with theatre and conference centre. It is a wonderful cultural hub for exhibits, productions and important meetings. We loved the Andy Warhol temporary exhibition and the miniature Azerbaijan show which displays dolls house-sized handmade representations of the major Baku buildings.

Museum of Contemporary Art – This new museum was built at the initiative of the First Lady of Azerbaijan, Mehriban Aliyeva and opened on 20 March 2009. The museum was intended as a focus for an “eco-cultural zone” conceived of by Thomas Krens, former director of the Guggenheim Foundation. They have an amazing collection of contemporary paintings and sculptures and a great café for lunch or coffee.

Martyrs’ Alley and the Eternal Flame – Perhaps the most poignant place to see in Baku is the sad and solemn Martyrs’s Alley, memorial to the Azeri citizens who died while fighting for Azerbaijan’s independence in 1990.

To do

Hop in a purple London taxi – these offer the most reliable mode of transport and are perhaps the only taxis in town to use a clear meter system – traffic later in the afternoon is unbearable, so at this time of day it is always best to walk.

Yashil Bazaar (Green Market) – Let your senses enjoy the colours and scents of this bustling fruit and vegetable market. Loveably dilapidated, and full of genuine traditional Azeri charm, this market is a must, even if you don’t buy anything.

Caspian Cruise – This 30 minute boat ride gives an different view of Baku’s skyscrapers. There is no guide or particular focus but for the equivalent of just a few pounds it is a cheap and pleasant activity especially at sunset.

To shop

Bisque – Is a fun and fabulous clothes concept store located in the centre of town. Offering hip and popular designers like Wildfox and Alice & Olivia, the brightly coloured clothes and accessories are all very tempting, especially when their summer sale is on! Just up the road you will find the Bisque café, similar in style serving up delicious snacks, ice-cream and coffee.

Emporium – A new stylish concept store in Baku. In Emporium you will find everything to help you feel the pulse of modernity: the very latest in fashion, design, music and art, the most recent clothing collections from leading brands and young designers, unique perfume and cosmetic brands, progressive music, and special art publications. The store also has a lounge area and a cafe, and the Emporium art space promises to delight visitors with a series of exhibitions, talks, evening social events and cocktail parties.

To visit

Jumeirah Blihah Beach Hotel – The Jumeirah certainly has a unique selling point as Baku’s only beach resort. Just 25 minutes drive from the city centre, this hotel is perfect for a day of sunbathing, swimming in the sea and best of all acting like a big kid in Baku’s biggest water park.

Ateshgah Fire Temple – In 1998 this castle-like religious structure was nominated for World Heritage Site status. When we visited the site, in the suburbs of Baku, it was deserted and silent, only a few workmen could be heard. Eerily still with just a fire burning constantly in the centre, it is a strange but historically important site.

Yanar Dag – This is a natural gas fire which blazes continuously on a hillside on the Absheron Peninsula, flames jet out into the air 10 feet (3 m) from a thin, porous sandstone layer and justify why Azerbaijan is often known as the ‘land of fire’.

Gobustan – Visit this ancient site for incredible cave drawings dating back 40,000 years. There is also an informative and interactive new museum well worth checking out.

There is a lot of change ahead for Baku and Azerbaijan, and I am so excited to be part of it. Bring on the next trip!

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with British Airways. British Airways operates a daily service from Heathrow to Baku seven times a week. The lead-in fare is from £463.95 including taxes/fees/carrier charges. To book or for more information visit www.ba.com/Baku or call 0844 4930787.

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Lisbon

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The Four Seasons in Portugal’s vibrant capital city was designed and built to attract a new clientele to Lisbon and put this destination on the international traveller’s map. Situated at the summit of Avenida de Liberdade (the Park Lane of Lisbon) overlooking the beautiful Parque Eduardo VII, it has long been considered Lisbon’s premier hotel.

The elegant ten storey building is spacious and grand inside. The divinely decorated interiors house 18th-century replica furnishings and an outstanding collection of contemporary Portuguese tapestries, paintings and sculptures. I was amazed too, by the impressive flower display in the lobby, beautiful blooms which are refreshed frequently add life and vibrancy to the communal area of the hotel.

The extensive meeting room facilities mean this venue is ideal for overseas and local business clients. The hotel was very busy, an impressive feat considering the off-peak season. While we were visiting, a senior Turkish delegation were also staying and the heightened security (gun-wielding police on the street and suited bodyguards in the lobby) was slightly disconcerting, especially since this hotel prides itself on being a family-friendly luxury hotel.

Of the 282 rooms and suites, 272 have private terraces looking out over central Lisbon and beyond. Our huge deluxe room included a large work desk and outdoor seating on the terrace. Simply arranged with attractive Portuguese decor and furnished in a timeless style. An offering of customary custard tarts and red wine was on the coffee table for us to munch on. It was easy to relax in our room with a big bouncy bed covered in the softest sheets and big warm dressing gowns and slippers to wear in the room.

An airy, light and spacious marble bathroom with large bath, separate rainforest and power shower, all supplied with L’Occitane toiletries, was a lovely place to revitalise and refresh. I was amazed by the special service too – when I needed nail varnish remover (as girls often do) the room service team swiftly brought me up some from the spa. And what a spa, the one at Four Seasons Lisbon is one of the very best I have seen, wonderful in every sense of the word. Located on the lower ground floor, there is plenty of room for all the luxurious facilities: a dazzlingly blue lap pool with an outdoor terrace, relaxation room, saunas and huge indulgent changing rooms. On the top floor guests should make use of the fitness rooms and amazing rooftop running track (which is a bit of a novelty), you can sprint round the Ritz whilst admiring the breathtaking views of the whole city below.

Every few months Lisbon Four Seasons invites a pair of guest therapists to the hotel from another Four Seasons branch. We were lucky to experience the wisdom and power of two Thai masseurs, who worked their magic on the Sunday morning. It was undoubtedly the best massage either of us have ever tried, two hours of absolute bliss, relaxation and tlc.

The lovely Varanda restaurant provides breakfast, lunch and dinner and those in need of a nightcap can visit the Ritz Bar for a cocktail. We enjoyed breakfast in the Varanda both mornings. It is hard to choose from the display of tempting dishes, fruits, pastries and hot treats. Just the juice, croissants and coffee were enough to satisfy me but on the second day I challenged the kitchen with my request for French toast. They rose to the test and presented me with a beautiful plate of warm sweet fried toast complete with strawberries and maple syrup; it was so divine I couldn’t help but finish the whole portion.

Lastly I must mention the incredible digital guide this hotel has produced. “Lisbon through Four Season’s eyes” is a city guide with a difference, outlining the very best currently on offer in every department and giving insider knowledge so you can see, do and eat the very best in this spectacular city. All activities can be organised by the hotel concierge so you can make the most of your time in Lisbon while the Four Seasons do all the hard work for you, promising the perfect stay and the perfect holiday.

More information and book here: www.fourseasons.com/lisbon

Four Seasons Park Lane Spa and Restaurant Amaranto

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I have ticked off many Four Seasons establishments abroad from my to-visit list and yet the hotel closest to home remained a mystery to me. Park Lane is lined with swanky hotels attracting businessmen and tourists… hidden just behind these obvious choices on Hamilton Place is the Four Seasons. Less ostentatious with a restrained luxury, this hotel is for guests desiring splendour without wishing to show off about it… definitely my favourite kind of central city accommodation.

As much as I was tempted to look round the rooms and admire the stylish classic design, I resisted in favour of the spa. Up in the lift to the tenth floor, the spa at this Four Seasons is certainly one of a kind, offering a light and lavish rooftop sanctuary that includes the spa, lounge and fitness centre. The fabulous London skyline surrounds the building and a different view is available in every room. Up here it is miraculously calm and peaceful, you can’t hear the cars below nor the chatter from the lobby. It made me ponder why so many hotels shove their spas in the basement, light and elevation brings a natural serenity that instantly refreshes you, especially if you are a busy Londoner wishing for some time out.

There are nine treatment rooms, vitality pools, steam rooms and saunas for hotel and spa guests to enjoy. After my tour I would have been very happy just to hang out up here and read a magazine, but I was lucky enough to be booked in for a personalised facial. Guests are given a cup of tea and cleansing flannel before treatments and asked to change into soft fluffy white robes. The changing rooms are like a beauty parlour with every toiletry you could need.

It was perhaps the best facial I’ve ever had, and it doesn’t surprise me to hear it is one of the most popular on offer here. The therapist really homed in on what was needed for my skin rather than demanding I try something particular. The curtains closed, the lights dimmed and I lay on a soft warm bed ready to be pampered. After a deep cleanse, exfoliation and extraction, relaxing massage and specialised mask, I felt fresh, radiant and youthful. ESPA products were used, and my therapist allowed me to pick out my favourite scents for the facial. To complete the treatment, my scalp was massaged with an enriching Moroccan oil treatment, to correct scalp skin imbalances and relieve tension and stress. It was relaxing and my hair was left with a lustrous shine and silky softness.

I got back in the lift to travel back down to the ground floor for an Italian dinner in Amaranto. It was a feast… spotting most of my favourite Italian dishes on the menu I had to opt for four courses, which in retrospect was perhaps a little greedy! After some crumbly 24 month aged Parmesan to nibble on with our Prosecco we chose starters, as advised by our waiter: flavoursome Culatello DOP with a traditional Gnocco Fritto and Burrata with smoked Tuscan tomatoes. It was the Burrata’s addictively creamy taste and texture that led me to almost lick the plate clean.

Homemade pastas are available in two sizes: both the ravioli with ricotta and spinach and the rigatoni carbonara with crispy cured pork jowl were delicious, light and simple with fresh ingredients and vibrant flavour. The meat course came next and I would say, if you are toying with the idea of pasta vs meat, go for pasta in the summer months. Crispy pork belly arrived with glazed carrots, peas and fresh marjoram. Balsamic glazed beef fillet with smoked aubergine and wilted spinach was the ideal man’s meal, rich and heavy, and it went down well with my guest.

If you can manage dessert, I’d stick with something simple, though the six miniatures did tempt me the tiramisu won me over eventually. It was huge, really far too big, which was a shame because it looked beautiful and tasted good but I just felt overwhelmed by the whole thing.

We left the Four Seasons fully satisfied. My experiences here prove this hotel is much more than just luxury accommodation and spa, it also has a restaurant really worth visiting.

More information and book here.