Before heading to Warsaw I contacted the man in charge of Poland’s only Michelin star kitchen, Modest Amaro… although his restaurant was shut he highly recommended Salto Restaurant. This relatively new eatery is housed in the luxurious Hotel Rialto (elegant art deco accommodation in the city centre) though operates very much as its own entity.

Salto is the creative venture of Argentinian-born Martin Gimenez Castro, winner of Poland’s 2013 ‘Top Chef’ competition. Passionate and innovative, Martin has carefully designed every aspect of the venue, including the beautiful unique plates and bowls in which his food is served. The food is intricate but employs bold flavour combinations and unusual cooking techniques. It is like nothing else I tried in Poland, the recipes are braver and tastes more powerful.

Salto features frequent reminders of Martin’s background and heritage, with South American flavours, an abundance of fish and seafood as well as famous Argentine beef. I peeked in the small kitchen where Martin and his petite team conjure up endless immaculate plates of food. Out in the full restaurant, guests seemed to be audibly enjoying their food, discussing the successful dishes amongst themselves.

We had our fingers crossed for steak, and four courses in, an impressive cut of Argentinian beef tenderloin was placed in front of each of us, perfuming the air around us. Alongside the steak came white truffle sauce, pak choi and baked Jerusalem artichokes. It was wonderful, a triumph of indulgent ingredients and fine silky meat.

Salto is known also for its remarkable wine list. The eager staff chose wine expertly to complement each course, producing one rare vintage after another. Particularly memorable was the 2004 Cavas de Weinert from Mendoza which married well with the steak.

A colourful and light dessert arrived to mark the end of the meal. An artistic arrangement of chocolate and beetroot components. It was my favourite flavour pairing of the night and I embraced the final plate of creativity gratefully.

Poland’s food scene is flourishing, and Martin Gimenez Castro is one of the most talented chefs leading the revolution. A meal at Salto is a must for any foodie visiting Warsaw.

More information and book here: www.saltorestauracja.pl