Geographically Basel is an interesting little place. This stunning Swiss city is sandwiched in between the borders of France and Germany and yet has a strong sense of identity and pride for its traditions and culture.
I visited a few weeks ago to experience the Basel Fasnacht, Switzerland’s largest Carnival and one of the most significant Protestant carnivals in the world. The annual celebration goes back to the medieval tradition of fasting at Lent before Easter to mark Christ’s suffering. Old documents suggest that the Fasnacht dates back to 1376 when it was known as the ‘evil carnival’.
The Basel Fasnact begins with the pre-dawn Morgenstreich at 4am on the Monday morning after Ash Wednesday. All the city centre lights are switched off and flash photography is prohibited as hundreds of masked drummers and piccolo players march the streets with painted lanterns to lead their way. It is a mesmerising spectacle that we were lucky to watch from a balcony. After the grand opening ceremony, onlookers visit local restaurants to enjoy the traditional flour soup (Mehlsuppe) and onion and cheese tarts (Waihe). Despite feeling exhausted from the early wake-up we all got into the spirit of things with this special feasting, the flour soup was meaty and comforting and the tart was like a luxuriously rich quiche.
The next day (after a few hours’ power nap!) we took to Basel’s streets again to immerse ourselves in the daytime festivities. Fasnacht lasts three days, with each day dedicated to different groups of people. Those involved are split into cliques, bands of people all following a particular theme. The themes each year are dependent on the topic. For 2017 the subject was ‘Mer sprange dr Raame’ (think outside the frame), and this was interpreted in a variety of ways with themes from Trump to Brexit, bumblebees to clowns.
The carnival is wonderful but relentless, the marching and playing continues throughout the night so don’t expect to get much sleep! We noticed a plethora of traditions whilst wandering around town… one of the most hilarious / irritating was the throwing of coloured confetti… you never quite know when a costumed child is going to shower you, and weeks later I’m still finding the remnants in my shoes and handbag!
When we weren’t out dancing with the carnival-goers we were based at the smart Swissotel Le Plaza. This hotel has a business feel, with functional but pleasant bedrooms and facilities for all work needs. I was impressed with the large bedrooms, indulgent pillow menus and the delicious array of breakfast treats.
The hotel restaurant Grill 25 was a helpful addition when we couldn’t find dinner in the crowded town. The menu has a range of class dishes from burgers to pasta, an extensive wine list and very attentive service.
During the carnival many of the restaurants and cafes are shut, but I wasn’t going to let that stop me finding some speciality coffee shops and traditional Swiss pastries! We enjoyed simple but tasty meals at Les Garecons (inside the amazing train station) and 1777, an eatery inspired by the Viennese cafe culture.
All the coffee connoisseurs I asked pointed me in the direction of Café Frühling, a beautifully designed venue with great coffee. Located on the outskirts of town, it was the perfect place to sit quietly with a hot drink and escape the carnival chaos for a little while!
While in Basel you must sample the famous Schoggiweggli (a chocolate chip brioche bun) which is sold everywhere. We found a particularly delicious variety at Confiserie Bachmann.
Basel is a beautiful city that I thoroughly enjoyed getting to know. The old town, with cobbled streets and traditional houses is heaven for keen photographers and I spotted lots of little shops and eateries I’d love to return to. For food lovers the fine dining scene is renowned and there are over 40 museums to enjoy if you fancy something artistic or cultural.
Thoroughly Modern Milly was a guest of Visit Basel, more information on the city here.