Trullo restaurant, Islington

Our trip to Trullo was wonderfully simple with delicious, no-fuss food in a relaxed intimate venue. What more could you want from a leisurely lunch in London?

Trullo restaurant is a small eatery steps away from Highbury and Islington Station. They opened their doors in 2009, specialising in humble, seasonally focused Italian food. Apparently the handmade pasta is a highlight of the experience at Trullo so I was sad not to try it… I guess it is a good reason to return!

The set Sunday menu is the perfect way to experience the best of this restaurant. A well rounded and balanced selection with four courses, each more tasty than the last, costing £30 per person.

On Sunday 27th May in the blazing sunshine we visited Trullo. Sitting down at the paper covered table overlooking St Paul’s Road, we admired the light and pretty restaurant and the jovial atmosphere. We ordered two glasses of refreshing light prosecco to accompany our meal.

There is something very enjoyable about not having to choose what to eat whilst dining out, especially for an indecisive foodie who wants to try a bit of every dish. First we were presented with a colourful antipasti platter to share comprising modest portions of Finocchiona (a fennel and pepper salami) that was highly flavoursome and very moreish, plump Puglian green olives, hot and comforting pea and ricotta fritters and sweet Silician tomato crostini. It was a perfect array of Mediterrean goodies.

Then pre main small plates arrived: Asparagus with Gorgonzola fonduta and pangrattato. I shouldn’t have liked this recipe… I’m not a massive fan of asparagus or blue cheese and yet it worked spectacularly well. A light vegetable course with a rich and creamy sauce with just a hint of Gorgonzola, all cooked to perfection. Asparagus is great this time of year and using it in season ensures high quality and sustainability of the ingredient.

Each course at Trullo was perfectly timed – the discreet and friendly waiter giving us appropriate breaks for digestion and chatting! I was also amazed with the water top ups service, we must have finished our carafe of tap water ten times (it was a very hot day!) and every time it was replaced within seconds of being drained. We treated ourselves to a second glass of the delicious prosecco.

Soon enough it was time for the main event, which we were eagerly anticipating after reading the description on the menu: Black Hampshire Pork Shoulder cooked in milk, sage and Amalfi lemon with Swiss chard, roast potatoes, anchovy and chilli. Being a bit pathetic about fishy fish and anchovies in particular, the staff at Trullo kindly indicated to the chef that I would prefer mine without the anchovies which seemed to be no problem. The dish was rustic and not fancy at all in presentation, however the taste and mix of flavours was full and faultless with very well compiled ingredients. The meat was divine, so soft with a salty crispy skin, it fell off the bone effortlessly; a lovely suggestion of lemon and sage contributing to the meat’s flavour. It was quite a lean cut without too much fat. We both loved the Swiss Chard and roast potatoes which were garlicky and had a slight kick from the chilli, the ideal accompaniment to the pork.

Dessert was exceptional, homemade Cherry and almond tart with crème fraiche. The pastry was very naughty and buttery, flaky and wonderful, with a sweet almondy filling that avoided being overly sugary. I initially thought the small dollop of crème fraiche would not suffice but in fact even this seemed to be measured perfectly, a lovely creamy addition to the pudding. We finished as I end most meals with a cleansing cup of fresh mint tea.

My only slight nag is that perhaps linen tablecloths would be nice, making the appearance of the restaurant slightly smarter to match the very high calibre of food. Other than that, Trullo is beyond criticism, a truly lovely restaurant.

Visit the Trullo website here for more information.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *