Salt Yard, Goodge Street

I have been desperate to try Salt Yard for a while now, the first of three related tapas & charcuterie restaurants to appear on the London scene. This petite Spanish eatery is found on Goodge Street among many other bustling restaurants and bars, a trendy place to hang out and eat especially at the weekends. I went along one Saturday early in the evening with my dad, we had both prepared appropriately by starving ourselves prior. I was surprised to see the place was already almost full, foodie couples chatting over Malbec and Manchego.

The menu and style is similar to Opera Tavern (its sister restaurant), which after I tried it eighteen months ago quickly became my favourite food outlet in London… needless to say I have now visited at least ten times! The ambience is different at Salt Yard, slightly noisier and trendier with less of an intimate feel. We found the pop music playing distracted us a bit from the authentic and inspiring food, perhaps some flamenco would suit the mood and cuisine better.

I always find I get horrific food envy in tapas bars, it is so easy to order ‘just one more’ plate after spying a treat on a nearby table. And so a light Mediterrean meal becomes a heavy multi-course feast. To accompany our glasses of fine sparkling prosecco we ordered a selection of plates to graze on… though it is difficult to graze in Salt Yard, the food tastes so good it is hard to restrain from gobbling it all instantly. Chargrilled Country Style Bread arrived with creamy homemade Aioli along with Padron Peppers, Wild Boar Salami and Three Manchegos from La Mancha. The cheese was delicious, three slices all matured to different ages. Padron Peppers were simply grilled and salted, pleasant with a mouthful of cheese and bread but a little bitter to taste alone. The Wild Boar salami was the star of the show, soft thinly sliced meat with a distinctive rich flavour, moreish and delectable, I will definitely be looking out for this in the shops from now on.

Chargrilled Octopus with Warm Potatoes, Peas, English Asparagus and Mint looked and tasted fresh and vibrant… the kind of dish that transports you to a seaside café with the smell of sea salt in the air. Confit of Old Spot Pork Belly with Rosemary Scented Cannellini Beans is one of the most popular dishes at Salt Yard. Served modestly in a rustic dish, sitting on a bed of soft mild cannellini beans, it was surprisingly lean for pork belly, with a lovely light herby flavour.

Now the dishes were arriving thick and fast, exquisite recipes with thoughtful combinations and high quality ingredients. Of the meat dishes Roast Rump and Seven Hour Shoulder of Lamb, Crushed Pea and Mint Vinaigrette was my clear favourite. A delicious melange compiled elegantly with seasonal peas and mint – the taste was exciting and satisfying, with two cuts of the lamb offering alternative textures and the vegetables perfecting the dish. I found Chargrilled Iberico Presa with Whipped Jamon Iberico Butter a little too rare for my liking, however there is no denying that this variety of pork is really very exceptional. The unique flavour is unbeatable and the meat melts in the mouth.

Truffled Macaroni Cheese shouldn’t work but does… recommended as a ‘must try’ by our waitress, we succumbed to the rich and gooey dish. It was excellent, creamy and comforting with a subtle hint of truffle oil, a lovely accompaniment with the meat dishes. Courgette Flowers stuffed with goat’s cheese and drizzled with honey are really excellent, a successful combination of flavours and textures, the flowers covered lightly in batter and the sweet honey complementing beautifully. Even though pricey (£7.95 for two small stuffed flowers), I would say this is an essential addition to your meal.

Puddings were a real highlight, and despite feeling full we managed to try two simple but spectacular desserts. I was tempted by the homemade Churros with chocolate sauce, doughnut dunking batons that reminded me of summers in southern France. Instead we chose the more sophisticated Hot Chocolate Fondant, Marmalade Ice cream, Almond Florentine and the English strawberries with Mascarpone Panna Cotta with White Chocolate Crumb. I can’t fault these two recipes,  executed and arranged to exemplary standards. The fondant was light and indulgent, the marmalade ice cream was innovative melting into chocolatey cave, the additional extra thin Florentine added a little crunch to the dessert. The Panna Cotta was exceptional, a creamy texture without the usual gelatiney texture, it was light and fresh with segmented sugary strawberries and a luxurious hint of white chocolate.

I have no doubts that the Salt Yard group of restaurants provide the best tapas in London: traditional but trendy, simple but stunning.

Visit the Salt Yard website here.

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