The Meter looked a bit dull and dark from the outside, and yet once I experienced the vibrant Italian food and exquisite cocktails, my first impressions were reversed. This new eatery (only three weeks old) has opened in the happening area of Shoreditch, a few steps from Old Street tube. I am always surprised by how grey this part of London is, no green to be seen anywhere… and yet behind the doors of the independent cafes, bars, shops and restaurants some of the most exciting creative activity in the city takes place.
Though the interior is all still quite makeshift, there is an obvious New York vibe… cool and laid back. The Meter offers simple Italian cuisine with a clever and appealing menu. I was incredibly impressed with the cheap prices, and after tasting the food was even more surprised that they could be kept so low with such high quality ingredients.
I’m embarrassed to say we tried about half of the cocktail list between us. Unique combinations and inventive ideas that really worked. My absolute favourite was the Rhubarbomb – a sweet mix of Santa Teresa anejo Rum, home-made rhubarb compote, lime juice and vanilla sugar… it is a summery drink, fruity with a sour kick. My friend tried the W.T.S Collins made with Gin, Poire Williams, cucumber, lemon and sugar… served very cold, this is the ultimate refreshing cocktail, mixed to perfection. Later on in the night I ordered a more grown up Rhum Blazer which was made at our table, a little performance with fire and dramatics producing an incredibly strong but wonderfully aromatic drink.
Our waitress was adorable, helping us choose from the menu and suggesting her favourites. An array of attractive food arrived promptly and I suddenly realised how starving I was… wolfing down herby olives, peppery salami and lightly toasted focaccia bread from the beautiful board of classic antipasti and finishing off the small dough fritters with spicy homemade tomato sauce very easily. The Antipasti sharing plates are generous and would be ideal for a light lunch with wine.
Pizzas feature prominently on the Meter menu, priced per 0.25 m. We decided on the Broccoli e Salsiccia with wild broccoli, pork & fennel sausage, chillies, cream and mozzarella… they are artisan-made and delicious, though I think I chose the wrong topping, as the pizza on the next door table looked more interesting. The ingredients individually were lovely, but together without a tomato base it was disappointing and a little bizarre. Next time I will be trying the Melanzane (aubergines, parmesan, tomato, mozzarella, ricotta and basil) or the Salame Piccante (spinata calabra, black olives, tomato, chillies, scamorza).
From the rest of the menu, we tried the veal and almond meatballs and the grilled aubergine and pine nuts salad. The meatballs arrived with polenta in a sweet tomato sauce, a comforting and rich dish, I loved it. The salad was fresh and crunchy, but needed a more punchy vinegary dressing.
Desserts were very typically Italian, served in small glasses they looked and tasted divine. Tiramisu was the star of the show: silky, creamy, sweet. I have never tasted such an insanely yummy tiramisu! We also tried wine poached pear, yogurt cream, ginger crumble, cinnamon, chocolate – a unique pudding with layers of contrasting textures and tastes.
The Meter offers the best of both worlds, innovative cocktails and delicious reasonable food, I think once word gets out this understated venue will be a hit eatery.
Visit The Meter website here.