Harrison’s new bar and menu, Balham

Now there are two reasons to visit Balham, Harrison’s restaurant and the trendy new downstairs bar. This modern local restaurant opened in 2007 with Sam Harrison at the helm and is co-owned by Rick Stein and Rebecca Mascarenhas.

To celebrate the venue’s 5th anniversary Sam decided it was time to revolutionise the space, building a bar downstairs and giving the ground floor a makeover. Both restaurant and bar were redesigned by Design LSM (Galvin La Chapelle; Goodman Restaurants; Burger and Lobster; Sam’s Brasserie & Bar) who have created a neutral colour scheme with vibrant turquoise bar stools and dining chairs; rich orange, deep buttoned banquette seating has been installed in the front window area. Particularly cool are the reclaimed factory pendants with bare light bulbs hanging above the bar.

“Downstairs at Harrison’s” is a candlelit cocktail bar with intimate booth seating and a specially designed bar running the full length of one wall. The design is heavily influenced by Sam’s favourite New York bars and evokes a luxurious feel of times gone by. All furniture is bespoke with brass-edged stools and tables and black leather seats edged with brass studs. Here the lighting is dimmed and couples huddle intimately round tables. We sat at the bar and chatted to the bar staff while enjoying two of the newest concoctions, a pomegranate inspired gin based drink and a wonderfully revitalising cucumber creation.

With the refurbishment comes a whole newly revamped menu. The best of British recipes are better than ever, bold flavours with the highest quality ingredients. The whole dining experience here is simple but stylish, I even liked the vintage brown paper menus used as place mats. After some crusty bread with garlic infused balsamic vinegar and olive oil, we tucked into a faultless three course meal. Head chef, Ian Leckie presents food that is the standard of fine dining, but with a real emphasis on comfort dishes.

Lamb belly fritters with pumpkin puree and salsa verde, and salt and pepper squid turned out to be very successful starters. Despite my ambivalence for fish, I stole several pieces of ultra thin squid, addicted to the peppery seasoning and crunchy light batter. My fritters were delicious too, surprisingly not too fatty but modestly coated in breadcrumbs and served with a fresh salad and sweet pumpkin puree.

After the first course we made a pact to politely share the mains… Harrison’s meatballs with soft polenta and Aged 10 oz sirloin steak with fries. I wanted to try something from both areas of the menu, and looking around the restaurant it seemed that the Grill offerings were very popular. The meatballs were wholesome and warming with crispy sage leaves placed delicately on top… a lovely winter recipe. Polenta is a favourite of mine, but rarely found on menus, grainy textured but a much more satisfying carb than pasta or rice, and particularly scrumptious with grated parmesan as Harrison’s illustrated. The steak had a lovely flavour and the chips were ultra thin and crispy. We weren’t massive fans of the peppercorn sauce which was very thin and strong. To accompany our meaty mains we both opted for a glass of Sam’s recommended red, Ajaya Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 from South Africa.

The desserts all sounded exquisite – we eventually decided on Harrisons mini puddings with coffee, and the chocolate fondant with salted caramel ice-cream, all homemade that day in the pastry area of the kitchen. The petits fours were chocolate chip cookies, coconut and white chocolate truffles and marshmallow squares, all very tasty. The star of the show though was the fondant, oozing indulgent sauce and perfectly paired with salty caramel ice-cream – it was, my friend said, “the best dessert I have ever tried, can I have another one?”

Harrison’s can do no wrong, offering amazing food and drinks in a lovely setting. The people of Balham are very lucky, and I’d really like a branch in Acton please?

More information here.

www.harrisonsbalham.co.uk

Bubbly Brunch, The Grill on the Market, Smithfields

I can imagine The Grill on the Market is overwhelmed with visitors during the week, but when it comes to the weekend this amazing British bistro is eerily empty. So it seems logical that for weekends only, diners can opt for the Bubbly Brunch, a great incentive and a brilliant way to celebrate Saturdays!

All you have to do is book ahead, go along with two or more friends and each order a main course either from the Brunch or Lunch main menus. Then, like magic, (for a two hour period) your bottomless glass of Prosecco will appear, always full. With brunch courses starting at just £9 it is ludicrously good value for money!

Full of enthusiasm, our waiter was wonderfully entertaining throughout our lunch at the restaurant. He was efficient, knowledgeable and friendly, so nice that I wanted to give him a hug when we left. Even now, a week later, the stand-out service remains one of the most memorable things about my experience at Grill on the Market.

Near to the famous Smithfields Market, the produce is the very freshest and finest. After delicious garlic rub bread we had to make the difficult decision of what to have for main course. It was inevitable at a grill restaurant that we would both be wooed by the tempting assortment of steaks. Alongside the standard Aberdeen Angus steaks, Grill on the Market offer a speciality ‘Best of British’ shortlist of seasonal treats. We chose the Limousin x Galloway Fillet with Bearnaise sauce and the Red Hereford Ribeye with peppercorn sauce. Both were exquisite specimens of meat: juicy, tender, with lovely marbling and unforgettable flavour. Although I’m not usually a Ribeye fan, I couldn’t fault this cut.

One portion of hand cut chips and petits pois a la Francaise suited us perfectly – plump peas coated in indulgent buttery onion sauce, and fat soft chips to dunk in our steak juices. Along with the endless Prosecco, it was the ideal Saturday brunch.

Unable to resist we finished with two desserts from the list of classics: scrumptious sticky toffee pudding and wonderfully warm chocolate fudge cake to complete the ultimate luxurious lunch.

More information and book here.

Maze Grill, Mayfair

Maze Grill is known for its superb steaks, but I was keen to visit for its recommended burger. Located in the same building as Gordon Ramsay’s more prestigious Maze (serving award-winning French and Asian influenced food), Maze Grill has a relaxed atmosphere and a menu of British best.

We began with a simple cocktail, sweet but tasty fruit flavoured martinis… my lychee variant was particularly good. Sitting down in the plush corner sofa seats we could voyeuristically observe the restaurant’s running. Busy and bustling, the place was full from early evening and everyone seemed to be having a great time… I was optimistic about the meal ahead.

A cheeky chappy came over with ‘the board’, loaded with glistening hunks of meat. Each had its own story, assets and limitations, I listened intently… after all one of these would soon be on my plate. We rapidly chose our first course, crispy calamari and, staying true to my burger promise I ordered the sliders, with a Maze burger for main. It was a feast of meat, cheese and carbs… a diet dream! The calamari was tasted fresh and Mediterranean strewn with spring onions and a wedge of lime.

Though I was disappointed with the burger, my friend’s steak was definitely in my top three I have ever tried, and I envied his every bite. The burger was neatly presented and served with a couple of onion rings. Despite requesting the meat medium, the patty was very dense and a bit dry, although the flavour was still good. The butter lettuce, tomato and Monterey Jack cheese were all good but the bread was too thick and filling, and I couldn’t finish it all.

Steak is really what Maze Grill is all about and I’m pleased to say that they excel in this area. We experienced the most tender and wonderful 8oz Wagyu “9th grade” sirloin steak. It was so good I could imagine requesting it as my last meal on earth. Along with half a roasted garlic, and a very thick and creamy bearnaise sauce, I really couldn’t fault it. For those who don’t know… Wagyu is the designer steak of ultimate indulgence. The cow is massaged (and some are even fed beer) to create an evenly marbled, melt in the mouth meat.

Chips were delicious too, hand cut and parmesan & truffle french fries are on offer. We tried both, naturally. I was particularly enamoured of the fries subtly seasoned with truffle oil and a modest sprinkling of parmesan.

Wine was chosen according to our food choices – the sommelier picked appropriately and thoughtfully offering us different reds to suit the burger and steak, and a crisp, drinkable white to start.

I must admit I found the service a little suffocating. Seven staff members attended to us constantly throughout the night: concierge, hostess, waiter, sommelier, waitress, meat expert. It was very flattering but also quite distracting; when your mouthfuls are so regularly interrupted indigestion is inevitable. Aside from that the food was commendable… and with steaks this good I’m sure Maze Grill will always be busy.

More information here.

http://www.gordonramsay.com/mazegrill/