Tag Archives: South London

Peckham Bazaar, Peckham

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I’ve tried to visit Peckham Bazaar several times now but their small restaurant doesn’t accommodate many and it is always full to the brim with ravenous locals. Last Friday however I managed to secure a table for two at 9.30, a chance at last to try their highly regarded cuisine.

It is a bit off the beaten track, and even after I had convinced my parents that Peckham is not ‘a bit stabby’ (their words, not mine) I was beginning to reconsider. There is a distinct lack of street lights and the towering housing estates on either side of the road create an eerie wind tunnel. Freezing and hungry, we arrived at the shabby but grand ex-pub, which houses Peckham Bazaar on the ground floor.

They describe the food as Pan-Balkin, and cook the majority of the dishes on a giant, smoke-pumping grill, which leaves a tempting scent in the air. Albanian chef John Gionleka is found engulfed in a cloud of charcoal smoke, we nodded in appreciation as we walked in. Sitting at the back of the venue we could survey the room, and all the groups of friends joyfully consuming the tasty grub.

The room is not fussy or trendy but comfortable and welcoming. After a nice glass of light house white, we tucked into Charmoulah chicken wings (£6.50) which are marinated in a delectable mix of spices and skewered on sticks. Served with a sweet roast butternut squash puree, kohlrabi and onion, there are a lot of vibrant flavours to excite the tastebuds. The chicken is encased in a caramelised crunchy skin, and yet remains tender inside.

For main course, we took the waitress’s advice despite eyeing up the pork chops on the neighbouring table. Grilled English rump steak with winter artichoke and new potato stifado was a tour de force, lean chunky strips of meat on a sumptuous pile of potatoes and vegetables, seasoned immaculately. The Grilled marinated quail is a speciality and did not disappoint. I carefully stripped it of every scrap of meat, charred and delicious on the outside, succulent inside. The accompanying herbed pilaf, moutabel (aubergine dip) and adjika (red pepper sauce) were a little sweet for me but texturally worked well, pomegranate and mint leaves added dashes of colour.

Peckham Bazaar definitely serves the best Greek food I’ve tried in London; in fact… I challenge you to find better. Guess that’s another restaurant to add to my ever-growing Peckham favourites list.

More information here: www.peckhambazaar.com

Peckham Refreshment Rooms, Peckham Rye

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I moved to Peckham less than a week ago and I have already found my favourite local restaurant. Peckham Refreshment Rooms opened recently, just behind the train station, amidst the vegetable stalls and hairdressing shops. It is easy to miss with a plain exterior and no sign, but inside the chic basic dining room and bar is nearly always packed. On the occasions I visited I was pleased to find it full of keen foodies rather than ‘cool kids’ needing a place to hang-out, they seem to stick to the Bellenden Road area. As word gets out about this hidden gem, I’m sure the clientèle will change.

The restaurant offers a concise and tasty menu… Modern British food, done simply and priced reasonably. There aren’t many choices, but what is on offer is delicious. Big flavours and inspired ingredient combinations cooked by a few talented chefs in the open kitchen, which seemed remarkably calm when I peered inside. To start we gorged on a few plates from a tapas style ‘bar food, charcuterie and cheese sections’ – the Confit Shallot and Mozzarella with Salsa Verde were particularly memorable. They used the best quality products and were modestly prepared in ways that emphasised their best qualities.

For meat fans, Bavette (also called skirt of flank) is a great cut to sink your teeth into, cooked immaculately with a caramelised crispy edge and a velvety texture inside. It was served with the quirky tasting pickled walnut and vinegary parsley salad. Duck Confit is unmissable, perhaps the best duck I have ever tasted, it had a generous amount of meat on the bones and an indulgent crispy skin. Paired with soft simple carrots that have been flavoured with the duck fat, it was a brilliant dish.

I couldn’t decide what to drink, there is a precise and thoughtful list of sensibly priced wine, and a list of inventive cocktails ideal as an aperitif. I opted for the Spiced Sidecar, a short strong drink made with cognac, calvados, homemade spiced syrup and lemon, it was wintry, carefully balanced and smooth. Costing just £8, you can afford to have a few.

We were very disappointed to discover the chocolate pot with biscotti had run out, but dark chocolate salted toffee tart was a fine substitute. A thick and gooey delight topped with sea salt crystals and a small dish of single cream to cut through the cocoa richness. It was divine, and finished in seconds.

As a restaurant reviewer I rarely get to try an eatery more than once, but I have already broken this rule for Peckham Refreshment Rooms, where I hope to spend many more delicious evenings.

More information and book a table here: peckhamrefreshment.com

The Dairy, Clapham

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Clapham has never been a very appealing place to me: hectic main station, chain stores filling the streets and predominantly occupied by young professionals who continue to live and act like students. Recently though one of my best friends has moved to the neighbourhood forcing me to reconsider what Clapham has to offer. Consequently I have discovered The Dairy, a brilliant independent eatery serving innovative food that looks and tastes delicious.

A few months ago, when I took to Twitter to ask for Clapham restaurant recommendations, the Dairy was the unanimous favourite. The small characterful restaurant is found near Clapham Common station and certainly stands out, with its trendy distressed look and retro rustic décor – it is very countryside chic.

The utmost care is taken to use locally sourced ingredients. The September menu features an assortment of inventive and interesting flavours with a particular focus on seasonal produce. The chef, Robin Gill and his team collect many of the fresh components from the roof where an allotment has been planted!

The dishes are of the ‘small plate’ variety, reasonably priced, until the waiter tells you that you’ll need at least four each. Here’s what we shared between the three of us, carefully selecting from the themed sections on the menu.

Snacks
Sariette de Banon, courgettes, rooftop honey, basil £6
Truffled Brie de Meaux on fig & walnut toast, rooftop honey £8.5
Galician octopus, fresh coco beans, chorizo £6.5

Garden
Butternut squash, rooftop rocket, buttermilk £7.5

Land
Yorkshire venison, celeriac, game sausage, blackberries £10
Suckling pig belly, cobnuts, heritage carrots, cavolo nero £10

Sweet
Salted caramel, cacao, malted barley ice cream £6.5

Cheese
36 month aged Comte, grapes, maple & thyme cracker £7.5

There was a delicious sounding Gin Sour available but we opted for a bottle of house wine. Each dish is immaculately composed with clever contrasting flavours and textures. Highlights for me were the Truffled cheese on toast, a creamy, nutty and sweet delight; the rich and succulent pig belly with startlingly black cavolo nero and bright orange heritage carrots. Octopus and chorizo was a lighter dish for seafood fans and Butternut squash was a delicately seasoned vegetarian option.

For dessert the Dairy keeps things simple with a decadent chocolate caramel recipe paired with ice-cream, it was one of the best puddings I have ever tasted. Greedy rascals that we are, we couldn’t resist the cheese plate which completed the meal perfectly.

Those who want to experience the Dairy’s creative flair should order the bespoke seven course tasting menu carefully selected by the kitchen and priced at £45 per person. A diamond in the rough, the Dairy makes me want to visit Clapham again and again.

More information and book a table here.