Dabbous, Bloomsbury

Obtaining a table at Dabbous is like winning the lottery, random and overwhelmingly exciting. The morning for my visit finally arrived, my stomach whirled, it felt like a combination of Christmas and my birthday rolled together. Whenever I have a special restaurant booked I get nervous beforehand, terrified that I’ll suddenly come down with flu, or something will happen to jeopardise my long awaited meal! I had already had to cancel my first gold-dust booking, when I was told that I HAD to work that day… I almost cried down the phone to the poor reservations girl who kindly and miraculously managed to fit me in a few days later. All plans were dropped, my dad was called and we marched off towards Goodge Street ready to be impressed.

11.55 am would usually be a little early for cocktails, even for me, but eager to try the concoctions on offer at Oskar’s Bar (downstairs at Dabbous) I succumbed. Simple innovative drinks are made expertly behind the bar, we waited while chatting to the sociable waiter. The drinks are stylish and cool, served in misted glasses and ice cold. First I tried the ‘Dillusion’ (Bombay Sapphire gin, elderflower cordial, cucumber, dill, lemon and sugar) – a simple sophisticated drink of the palest green, adorned with a tiny sprig of dill. It was perfectly mixed and deliciously subtly flavoured. The ‘Disco Rhubarb’ (Skane akvavit, homemade rhubarb syrup and apple juice) was a fun second cocktail, served long over crushed ice – a curiously fruity and refreshing drink.

Upstairs the waiters are dressed to impress and hover ready to pounce on any empty plates or glasses. Plump green olives were brought to our table and the menu explained. They recommend you choose four or more dishes each from the varied a la carte menu, or if you’d prefer there is a set lunch and a tasting menu available. We opted for the set lunch with one substitution for me, omitting the fish and adding in Iberico pork.

Warm nutty wholemeal bread arrived in branded brown bags, with a dollop of yellow creamy butter. I won course number one hands down with my gloriously summery ‘Peas with Mint’ a glass filled with a garden of creamy pea mousse, tiny purple petals and minty granita. The combination of the hot and cold textures was intriguing, but utterly delicious… I could tell my dad was jealous as his Mixed Alliums in a Pine Infusion was stunning in presentation but not as exciting in taste.

Next came my magnificent Barbecued Iberico pork with Savoury Acorn Praline, turnip tops and apple vinegar. The sticky, caramelised and richly favoured meat was accompanied by a satisfyingly nutty caramel praline, weird by wonderful. The Braised Ling with Coastal Herbs was almost too lovely looking to eat, tantalizingly soft fish with specks of bright pink and a pale creamy sauce.

Neither of us could resist the Barbequed Lamb shoulder with runner beans and lesser calamint (a fern-like member of the mint family). It was the best course yet, divinely tender meat paired with yummy beans and soft white cheese, a dreamy mix of ingredients.

For desserts the options are modest: Ripe peach in its Own Juice and Artisanal Cheese from the British Isles with baked apple and toasted sourdough. We chose one of each. The peach was perfectly simple, sweet and juicy with an alluring hint of vanilla. The cheese was beautifully presented with a delicious caramel apple and ultra thin bread crisps, my dad really enjoyed it.

After my healthy peach pudding, I was craving a mouthful of something sugary… right on cue two tiny little cakes were delivered with liqueur soaked cherries on top: a mouthful of heaven to accompany our coffees.

For such divinely delicate and pretty food, it seems a great shame that the venue is quite the opposite in style. A harsh industrial room, it doesn’t suit the elegant cuisine at all, even the front door is an oppressive heavy gateway. Aside from this minor criticism our trip to Dabbous was as sublime as hoped and Mr Oliver Dabbous is deserving of the overwhelming interest he has received.

Dabbous is very reasonable with the Set Lunch menu costing £26 for four courses and the Tasting Menu priced at £54. Enquire now and you may just get a table in 2013.

Visit the Dabbous website here for more information.

http://dabbous.co.uk/

 

Salt Yard, Goodge Street

I have been desperate to try Salt Yard for a while now, the first of three related tapas & charcuterie restaurants to appear on the London scene. This petite Spanish eatery is found on Goodge Street among many other bustling restaurants and bars, a trendy place to hang out and eat especially at the weekends. I went along one Saturday early in the evening with my dad, we had both prepared appropriately by starving ourselves prior. I was surprised to see the place was already almost full, foodie couples chatting over Malbec and Manchego.

The menu and style is similar to Opera Tavern (its sister restaurant), which after I tried it eighteen months ago quickly became my favourite food outlet in London… needless to say I have now visited at least ten times! The ambience is different at Salt Yard, slightly noisier and trendier with less of an intimate feel. We found the pop music playing distracted us a bit from the authentic and inspiring food, perhaps some flamenco would suit the mood and cuisine better.

I always find I get horrific food envy in tapas bars, it is so easy to order ‘just one more’ plate after spying a treat on a nearby table. And so a light Mediterrean meal becomes a heavy multi-course feast. To accompany our glasses of fine sparkling prosecco we ordered a selection of plates to graze on… though it is difficult to graze in Salt Yard, the food tastes so good it is hard to restrain from gobbling it all instantly. Chargrilled Country Style Bread arrived with creamy homemade Aioli along with Padron Peppers, Wild Boar Salami and Three Manchegos from La Mancha. The cheese was delicious, three slices all matured to different ages. Padron Peppers were simply grilled and salted, pleasant with a mouthful of cheese and bread but a little bitter to taste alone. The Wild Boar salami was the star of the show, soft thinly sliced meat with a distinctive rich flavour, moreish and delectable, I will definitely be looking out for this in the shops from now on.

Chargrilled Octopus with Warm Potatoes, Peas, English Asparagus and Mint looked and tasted fresh and vibrant… the kind of dish that transports you to a seaside café with the smell of sea salt in the air. Confit of Old Spot Pork Belly with Rosemary Scented Cannellini Beans is one of the most popular dishes at Salt Yard. Served modestly in a rustic dish, sitting on a bed of soft mild cannellini beans, it was surprisingly lean for pork belly, with a lovely light herby flavour.

Now the dishes were arriving thick and fast, exquisite recipes with thoughtful combinations and high quality ingredients. Of the meat dishes Roast Rump and Seven Hour Shoulder of Lamb, Crushed Pea and Mint Vinaigrette was my clear favourite. A delicious melange compiled elegantly with seasonal peas and mint – the taste was exciting and satisfying, with two cuts of the lamb offering alternative textures and the vegetables perfecting the dish. I found Chargrilled Iberico Presa with Whipped Jamon Iberico Butter a little too rare for my liking, however there is no denying that this variety of pork is really very exceptional. The unique flavour is unbeatable and the meat melts in the mouth.

Truffled Macaroni Cheese shouldn’t work but does… recommended as a ‘must try’ by our waitress, we succumbed to the rich and gooey dish. It was excellent, creamy and comforting with a subtle hint of truffle oil, a lovely accompaniment with the meat dishes. Courgette Flowers stuffed with goat’s cheese and drizzled with honey are really excellent, a successful combination of flavours and textures, the flowers covered lightly in batter and the sweet honey complementing beautifully. Even though pricey (£7.95 for two small stuffed flowers), I would say this is an essential addition to your meal.

Puddings were a real highlight, and despite feeling full we managed to try two simple but spectacular desserts. I was tempted by the homemade Churros with chocolate sauce, doughnut dunking batons that reminded me of summers in southern France. Instead we chose the more sophisticated Hot Chocolate Fondant, Marmalade Ice cream, Almond Florentine and the English strawberries with Mascarpone Panna Cotta with White Chocolate Crumb. I can’t fault these two recipes,  executed and arranged to exemplary standards. The fondant was light and indulgent, the marmalade ice cream was innovative melting into chocolatey cave, the additional extra thin Florentine added a little crunch to the dessert. The Panna Cotta was exceptional, a creamy texture without the usual gelatiney texture, it was light and fresh with segmented sugary strawberries and a luxurious hint of white chocolate.

I have no doubts that the Salt Yard group of restaurants provide the best tapas in London: traditional but trendy, simple but stunning.

Visit the Salt Yard website here.

SampleTrend, Goodge Street

How would you like to go shopping for free?! Now you can, well almost, at Sample Trend, the newest and smartest way to shop.

The SampleTrend concept is simple:

1) Sign up and pay a one off annual fee of £60.
2) Visit the ST shop on Goodge Street once a month to choose any five items to take away for free.
3) Answer a few quick and easy questions about each of the products online.
4) Return next month to choose your next five products from the new selection in store.

Although this idea is popular elsewhere in the world, SampleTrend is the first appearance in the UK. Located in a pristine shop in central London, the store is clearly arranged with products lining the shelves and two laptops at the rear of the store for members who have forgotten to fill out the questionaire from their previous visit. I will admit the items on offer aren’t necessarily things you would normally buy, but sometimes choosing with a different agenda and trying new products can be far more interesting.

Ranging from necessities like washing powder to inventive cosmetics, speciality foods and informative magazines, there is a variety of things to fill your basket with. The best thing about the process is the delightful element of surprise and fun.

I chose:
– Kopi Gourmet Coffee Malawi (worth £9.00)
– Mantis: Microfibre Mitt (worth £4.99)
– JML: Doktor Power Magic Eraser (worth £9.99)
– Myleene Klass Nails (worth £5.99)
– Magbook: 50 Photo Projects (worth £7.99)

An interesting group of products that have been surprisingly useful at home.

SampleTrend is the future of shopping… you heard it here first!

All information on the SampleTrend website here.