Tag Archives: curry

Gymkhana, Green Park

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It is currently impossible to get a table at Gymkhana. AA Gill wrote an unexpectedly glowing review, and equally fussy Giles Coren (who visited three times in five days) described all of the 25 savoury dishes he tried as “out of this world”. Needless to say the whole of London now want in on the hottest new eatery.

Luckily I ate at Gymkhana a month ago when there was a buzz about ‘a new Indian restaurant revelation’ but before the hype had completely consumed us all. Inspired by the colonial Indian gymkhana clubs, this venue hopes to encourage visitors, in the same way, to socialise, dine and drink. The room is beautiful, a warming wooden interior with atmospheric lighting from Jaipur wall lamps, cosy booths with marble tables and leather banquettes.

The extensive menu offers inventive and intriguing dishes, some familiar Indian favourites, others totally unrecognisable. We opted for a selection from the reasonable lunch menu (two courses for £20, three for £25) and the a la carte. I enjoyed an exotic yellow cocktail, expertly mixed and wonderfully presented in a saucer glass. A basket of poppadum shards arrived, with varied colours and flavours they looked as good as they tasted, enhanced by an amazing spicy tomato shrimp chutney.

I read several reviews prior to visiting Gymkhana and sussed out the popular dishes. Kid Goat Methi Keema is soft and richly flavoured with all kinds of magical spices. I am a sucker for creamy curry, and Chicken Butter Masala is the best I’ve tried of its kind, perfectly tangy tomato mixed with thick luscious yoghurt makes an irresistible sauce, especially good with the exquisite garlic naan. Kasoori Chicken Tikka with sprouting Moong Kachumber is a tender and aromatic grilled meat and the tandoori Guinea Fowl is equally exceptional.

Dessert was the only disappointment, perhaps due to my Indian inexperience. Rose Kulfi with Rose Jelly, Vermicelli, Basundi and Wild Basil Seeds sounded mesmerising, but I found the odd combination of jelly textures a bit creepy. The kulfi alone would have been enough for me, it cools the palate and provides a sweet kick for the end of the meal.

Those who are desperate to try Gymkhana’s wondrous food, I would recommend a trip to the original Karam Sethi restaurant in Marylebone, Trishna. This charming, Michelin-starred eatery features many of the same dishes at the same prices and is equally delicious.

More information and book here: www.gymkhanalondon.com

Chakra, Holland Park

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Type ‘chakra’ into Google and you are likely to find a collection of definitions and articles about the Seven Chakras – energy points that are thought to vitalise the human body. With this in mind Chef Andy Varma and team have created a relaxed but smart restaurant inspired by the ancient Vedic scriptures. They plan to invigorate the guests with positive energy from innovative Indian cooking.

My expert Holland Parkers had informed me that Chakra is one of the best restaurants in the area and well worth a visit. So on a Sunday night, keen not to travel far from home, we marched up the hill to experience our Indian feast. The team were delighted to see us, presenting flutes of champagne on arrival and regularly attending to table adjustments as and when they were needed.

The General Manager designed our meal to show all the scope and techniques of the kitchen. A wonderful arrangement of grilled treats arrived first, homemade masala flavoured lamb, delicately dressed chicken with crushed black pepper, garlic and coriander, huge seared tiger prawns with fresh ginger and garlic and a soft and spicy butternut squash galouti. All the components were delicious and particularly satisfying served together.

Thank goodness the waiter listened to my request for ‘mini mains’… at Indian restaurants it is easy to get carried away ordering six or seven huge dishes for two to share, after a weekend of heavy dining I didn’t want to over-indulge! Tasters arrived of ‘Chakra’s best’: we loved the creamy Black Daal (slow cooked lentil finished with dry fenugreek and cream) and the addictive Jalandhar Chicken (a variation of the Punjab classic with a tomato and cream masala sauce). The chicken was so tasty our waiter had to bring a second serving! The full flavoured garlic naan is unmissable and marries perfectly with the spicy sauces.

Mango Kulfi was a fruity finish to the meal, light and cooling, sweet but tangy. Leaving Chakra I’m not sure I felt vitalised but I was certainly satisfied, and I am proud to call it my local Indian.

More information here.

www.chakralondon.com

Salaam Namaste, Russell Square

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Both Londoners and tourists travel to Russell Square to sample Salaam Namaste’s sensational Indian cuisine. This restaurant offers so much more than your average Indian with traditional and speciality dishes on the menu.

The setting itself is nothing special. A warm and comfortable dining room with gaudy décor – we felt slightly squashed even though we had perhaps the best seats in the house. The restaurant manager was at our beck and call throughout the meal, which lasted a while as the staff struggled to cope with a busy night – every table was filled for the entire evening.

We ate a lot. Too much. But it was just too tasty to leave. After the crispiest, thinnest poppadoms, an array of starters arrived for us to devour. Onion bhajis were fresh and light, chowpatii bhelpoori (a popular street snack in Mumbai) were crunchy and spicy, and the jungle lamb kebabs were wonderfully tender, coated in the most divine marinade.

For mains we selected the recommended Butter Chicken from Delhi, the richest and creamiest curry I have ever eaten. Tandoori Chicken arrived sizzling at the table, highly seasoned and completely delicious. We barely managed the side dishes but I remember the baby aubergine cooked in mildly spiced yoghurt and the aromatic pilau rice particularly fondly. We opted for a bottle of the Pinot Grigio to accompany our meal, refreshing and light, it was very suitable.

Dessert took a long time to arrive and I was disappointed that tandoori pineapple was not available. Instead I opted for the coconut ice cream, which tasted homemade. If you’re after something more traditional, I’d go for Kulfi, Indian ice cream made with reduced milk.

For a really great Indian meal, Salaam Namaste is the place to go and judging by its longstanding reputation, it rarely disappoints.

More information and menus here.

www.salaam-namaste.co.uk