Afternoon Tea, Thomas’ Cafe at Burberry

Thomas’ Cafe is my current favourite breakfast spot, the setting is calm and pretty, and the food is delicate and delicious. Centrally located within the Regent Street store and an easy commute from my flat, it ticks every box. So when the team invited me to try out the new afternoon tea offering I was more than happy to oblige.

On a rainy Saturday the dining room was a little quieter than usual, the usual workday crowd must have been enjoying a day in and we had the entire upstairs room to ourselves. With the clouds looming outside I felt very pleased to be inside this comfortable and luxurious sanctuary.

Afternoon tea at Thomas' Cafe

Much like the designer clothing stocked downstairs, they keep the afternoon tea classic and simple at Thomas’. No gimmicky themes or excessive speciality tea menus. Seasonal sandwiches and cakes are brought to you, along with your choice from the ‘Aga’.

First we treated ourselves to a glass of particularly light and refreshing English Nyetimber Rosé sparkling wine, (tea is priced at £32 per person without the fizzy, or £44 with it). Next our Aga specials arrived, the hot buttered crumpets were particularly delightful… indulgent, comforting and very British. The scones were also tasty, freshly made and crumbly, served with rich clotted cream and Burberry’s own strawberry and raspberry jams.

Afternoon tea at Thomas' Cafe

The main event soon arrived on a decadent two-tiered glass stand. Four varieties of sandwiches sitting neatly on the bottom level – Rare Beef, Smoked Salmon, Egg, and Cucumber. Our favourite was the beef, a high quality meat with a complementing spicy mustard. The top shelf showcased the finest patisserie, from miniature lemon drizzle cakes, to chocolate and caramel crémeux with almond brittle. The cafe team recommend the 2016 Lalani & Co 2nd Flush Grand Reserve Darjeeling Tea from India to accompany their tea and I found this paired particularly well with the sweeter cake section of the tea.

Despite its growing fan base, Thomas’ Cafe still feels like London’s best kept secret, and I hope it stays that way as I don’t want to give up my favourite meeting spot, whether I’m visiting for breakfast, lunch, dinner or afternoon tea.

More information and book a table for tea at Thomas’ Cafe here.

Bryn Williams at Somerset House

It feels special walking into Somerset House, the grand courtyard entrance and charming architectural features make it one of my favourite places in London. Skye Gyngell opened Spring restaurant here a few years ago and now celebrated Welsh chef Bryn Williams has opened his first central London eatery within the iconic cultural venue’s South Wing.

Bryn Williams

The long restaurant is made up of a series of stylish dining rooms, each with culinary still life photography by Allan Jenkins. The decor is warm and luxurious and suits the location well, with a little nod to Williams’ Welsh roots (herringbone flooring, Welsh-printed upholstery and brown leather banquettes). From the window-facing tables you can look across over the River Thames.

Bryn Williams

We got comfortable on the nicely cushioned benches and prepared for a feast. Both my guest and I were starving and excited by the prospect of a menu that champions fruit and vegetables. Every dish sounded delicious, focussed recipes showcasing the best seasonal British produce.

Bryn WilliamsBryn Williams

Meat and fish fans need not fear as there are still plenty of hearty dishes to choose, rib eye steak and grilled red mullet were both on the menu when I visited. However I urge you to try the vegetarian dishes… Grilled Leeks with barley, buttermilk, Burford Brown egg and mushroom was a fresh recipe for spring, buttery and divine with a carefully cooked creamy egg yolk and herby dressing. My guest loved the simple but elegant Wild garlic soup with pink fir potatoes and crème fraiche and I really enjoyed the Pickled radishes with black garlic, apple and pork belly. Though this dish involved wonderfully rich pork, the radishes, crunchy fried sage leaves and black garlic puree stole the show.

Bryn Williams

There was only a short list of desserts to choose from, but even still we struggled to narrow it down. The waiter eventually insisted on the ‘very photogenic’ Lavender meringue with lemon posset, lavender & blueberry ice-cream and the Chocolate pavé with almond and blood orange. The lavender dessert was a delight, delicate and subtle, it was the perfect contrast of citrus and floral notes. I was pleased to find the chocolate pudding quite light and again matched with a seasonal citrus fruit. The blood orange sorbet was particularly delicious.

I can’t think of a nicer way to spend a Saturday in London than wandering round an exhibition at Somerset House before settling for lunch at Bryn Williams.

More information and book a table here.

Guest Review: La Traviata, ENO

Verdi’s La Traviata is a firm favourite of many opera lovers: rich, languid music narrating a tragic love story of sacrifice, separation and sickness.

These themes are perfectly encapsulated within the painfully beautiful overture, and in this production the curtain remained down throughout, allowing the audience to enjoy the shimmering clarity of the orchestra undistracted. From the start these musicians brought subtle flair and diversity of colour to their rendition of the score, following the singers with sensitivity and assurance.

La Traviata

Making his debut as Artistic Director of the ENO, Daniel Kramer has attempted to update La Traviata, bringing the setting forward 100 years to the early 20th century – but when specifically is unclear. Loose, visual references to the last century obscure the plot, which relies on a specific cultural context for coherence. Modernisation of the narrative backdrop lacks nuance, and supposed signifiers for the 20th century are muddled, over-sexualised and jarring with the story of a love forbidden by 19th century social convention. A successful updating of La Traviata requires a careful socio-historical understanding of this 19th century setting and how it can be coherently converted into a specific modernised equivalent. There doesn’t appear to be any artistic or intellectual reason for Kramer’s recontextualisation, and the darker themes of vulnerability and isolation present in the opera are overlooked in favour of lavishness and vulgarity, which alienate the audience, preventing full emotional sympathy with the protagonists.

La Traviata

Irish Soprano Claudia Boyle gives a controlled, virtuosic performance as Violetta, manoeuvring the score with dexterity, and her voice possesses a soft youthfulness, at times perhaps too muted, but at others appropriately sweet and gentle. Her onstage counterpart, Lukhanyo Moyake is vocally powerful as Alfredo, but had moments of technical instability, and together they lack chemistry. There was a sense that the three-dimensionality of their characters had not been fully explored, and therefore their love story was deficient of profundity and poignancy. Despite this, there were instances of great atmospheric impact, such as in the third act, where a dimly lit, mostly empty stage is filled momentarily with carnival goers. Darkly clothed figures emerge and surround the dying heroine before disappearing again into the shadows. It is a conceptually strong and visually beautiful innovation from Kramer, showing what can be achieved when the material is well handled.

This production of La Traviata was at times moving and rousing, but it is unfortunate that the emotional impact was dampened by some clumsy aesthetic and directoral decisions.

La Traviata continues at the ENO until 13 April, book tickets here.

Written by Eloise Kenny-Ryder.