Food education is a topic I am incredibly passionate about… and so it is a real perk of my job when a ‘behind the scenes’ foodie day out is on my week’s agenda.
I was initially asked if I would be interested in Facetiming Mary Quicke – the 14th generation of famers to run a Cheddar cheese farm in Exeter. However, I decided I wanted to see what life was like on the farm first hand, and meet some of the people (and cows) running it.
Without further ado, last week I travelled to Exeter to learn about Cheddar cheese farming. Cheddar is perhaps our most famous cheese in Britain, and yet there are only 9 farms left making traditional and authentic Cheddar. With so many imposters and cheap copies on supermarket shelves, it is easy to see why the name has become such a common staple, but the real thing is so much more complex and delicious.
I visited one of the oldest Cheddar farms to meet the cows, watch the process, and most importantly, taste the cheese, which is the result of such hard, labour-intensive work.
With our hairnets and wellies on, we ventured into the factory and the fascinating world of cheese making. White-uniformed cheesemakers were deep in concentration, methodically working through the different stages needed to complete a wheel of Cheddar. We followed the milk as it journeyed through the different rooms, first pasteurised for safety and uniformity, then it is heated and starter culture (good bacteria) is added. Next, rennet (an enzyme from animals or vegetarian) is added to help the milk clot and thicken.
The expert cheesemakers then have to separate the liquid whey from the solid curds. The whey is used separately for butter products, while the curd is used for the cheese. The curd solids are cooked and stirred until the required firmness is achieved and the pressed blocks are carefully turned repeatedly until ready for drying out. Wrapped in fine cotton sheets and pressed into a metal bucket, the cheese is then left to dry for 3 days, being turned every 24 hours.
It was amazing to wander through the storerooms that are home to all the aging wheels of cheese. I quickly understood how many tiny, crucial elements and tasks there are within the Cheddar making process. Cheddar wheels must be turned every 10 days otherwise the moisture will run to one side and the other side will dry out. And extra precaution must be taken to ensure cheese mites don’t ruin the wheel by creating a crack in it.
Of the different varieties, mature Cheddar is the most popular cheese, usually aged for around 12-14 months. I also had the opportunity to try a vintage Cheddar, aged for around 20 months; it had a salty depth of flavour and a firmer texture.
After the factory visit, we drove up to the fields where some of the dairy cows graze. The friendly herd came up to say hello, a beautiful mix of breeds ensures the Cheddar is always distinct in flavour and exceptional in quality.
What I learnt after my day on the farm is that UK dairy farms are part of a truly glob al network with 240m people directly or indirectly employed on 133m dairy farms around the world. And a new generation of farmers is changing the face of dairy around the world for the better… Next time you go to the dairy section at your local supermarket, think a little more carefully about which cheese you pick up… I know I won’t be settling for the cheap imitations anymore. Simply put, dairy production, worldwide, positively effects over one billion people.
This is a sponsored post in collaboration with AHDB Dairy.