An Education in British Cheese Farming

Food education is a topic I am incredibly passionate about… and so it is a real perk of my job when a ‘behind the scenes’ foodie day out is on my week’s agenda.

I was initially asked if I would be interested in Facetiming Mary Quicke – the 14th generation of famers to run a Cheddar cheese farm in Exeter. However, I decided I wanted to see what life was like on the farm first hand, and meet some of the people (and cows) running it.

Without further ado, last week I travelled to Exeter to learn about Cheddar cheese farming. Cheddar is perhaps our most famous cheese in Britain, and yet there are only 9 farms left making traditional and authentic Cheddar. With so many imposters and cheap copies on supermarket shelves, it is easy to see why the name has become such a common staple, but the real thing is so much more complex and delicious.

Cheddar Farm

I visited one of the oldest Cheddar farms to meet the cows, watch the process, and most importantly, taste the cheese, which is the result of such hard, labour-intensive work.

With our hairnets and wellies on, we ventured into the factory and the fascinating world of cheese making. White-uniformed cheesemakers were deep in concentration, methodically working through the different stages needed to complete a wheel of Cheddar. We followed the milk as it journeyed through the different rooms, first pasteurised for safety and uniformity, then it is heated and starter culture (good bacteria) is added. Next, rennet (an enzyme from animals or vegetarian) is added to help the milk clot and thicken.

Cheddar Farm

The expert cheesemakers then have to separate the liquid whey from the solid curds. The whey is used separately for butter products, while the curd is used for the cheese. The curd solids are cooked and stirred until the required firmness is achieved and the pressed blocks are carefully turned repeatedly until ready for drying out. Wrapped in fine cotton sheets and pressed into a metal bucket, the cheese is then left to dry for 3 days, being turned every 24 hours.

Cheddar Farm

It was amazing to wander through the storerooms that are home to all the aging wheels of cheese. I quickly understood how many tiny, crucial elements and tasks there are within the Cheddar making process. Cheddar wheels must be turned every 10 days otherwise the moisture will run to one side and the other side will dry out. And extra precaution must be taken to ensure cheese mites don’t ruin the wheel by creating a crack in it.

Cheddar Farm

Of the different varieties, mature Cheddar is the most popular cheese, usually aged for around 12-14 months. I also had the opportunity to try a vintage Cheddar, aged for around 20 months; it had a salty depth of flavour and a firmer texture.

After the factory visit, we drove up to the fields where some of the dairy cows graze. The friendly herd came up to say hello, a beautiful mix of breeds ensures the Cheddar is always distinct in flavour and exceptional in quality.

Cheddar Farm

What I learnt after my day on the farm is that UK dairy farms are part of a truly glob al network with 240m people directly or indirectly employed on 133m dairy farms around the world. And a new generation of farmers is changing the face of dairy around the world for the better… Next time you go to the dairy section at your local supermarket, think a little more carefully about which cheese you pick up… I know I won’t be settling for the cheap imitations anymore. Simply put, dairy production, worldwide, positively effects over one billion people.

This is a sponsored post in collaboration with AHDB Dairy.

Lahpet, Shoreditch

Like many of London’s most exciting restaurants, Lahpet started life as a marketplace pop-up. The team received great reviews and hungry hoards queued up for the comforting Burmese food. Dan Anton, who is part Burmese, wanted to introduce Londoners to his authentic cuisine with regional specialities and Myanmar staples. After a brief stint in a reclaimed warehouse in Hackney, Lahpet has recently found a permanent home in the heart of Shoreditch, on Bethnal Green Road.

Lahpet

The new restaurant is spacious and attractive, with warm lighting, leafy decoration and a lively soundtrack. We sat at a comfy banquette and within minutes were sipping green tea and awaiting a feast of recommended dishes.

Lahpet

Before visiting Lahpet I was a complete novice of Burmese food, unsure but excited about what to expect. The spread arrived smelling delicious, an array of salads and small plates, main plates and quirky sides.

Immediately I noticed the variety of recipes, textures and tastes. ‘Lahpet’ means ‘Tea Leaf’, and this ingredient features a couple of times in various dishes. The signature dish is the Lahpet salad, a mix of slightly bitter fermented tea leaves with tangy tomatoes and herbs – it is light, balanced and surprisingly tasty. Continuing with the tea leaf theme, you can also order the Lamb and Lahpet, a more substantial main dish.

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Most memorable for me were the Sweetcorn and Shan Tofu fritters, satisfyingly crisp little fritters with a soft and indulgent centre. I also enjoyed the Yellow Pea Paratha, a traditional soft bread filled with fragrant spiced peas.

Of the larger dishes, the Pork & Mustard Green Curry is a wholesome dish, the fatty and delicious pork meat was melt-in-the-mouth wonderful and the thick aromatic sauce was moreish and rich. For a lighter option, order the Coconut noodles with chicken, I found this steaming bowl irresistible, soft noodles take on the flavour of the lightly spiced coconut sauce, with a hint of lime and coriander.

Lahpet

After trying most of the savoury dishes I thought it was only polite to taste the solo dessert offering. The pudding description was initially a little baffling – Banana & Semolina cake with ice-cream, chocolate & caramelised peanut. The semolina cake was moist flavoured intensely with sesame. The refreshing ice-cream was dairy-free, it was pleasant in flavour and topped with peanut brittle. All in all though, this sweet dish pales in comparison to the vibrant savoury plates.

You can try Lahpet’s brilliant Burmese food at the Shoreditch restaurant or at their stall in Old Spitalfields food market. More information and book a table at Lahpet here.

Roganic, Marylebone

A few years ago I made the pilgrimage up to the Lake District to experience Simon Rogan’s flagship eatery. L’Enclume is a very special destination restaurant that champions seasonal garden produce and presents diners with a thoughtful multi-course meal. Needless to say, it was one of my most memorable food adventures ever.

Roganic

And so, when it was announced that Roganic would be returning to London (it had a 2 year residency as a pop-up a couple of years ago), I was extremely excited. Simon Rogan’s cooking style is inventive, sustainable and utterly delicious… his presentation and innovation stands out amongst London’s other fine dining establishments.

Roganic is found on Blandford Street in the heart of Marylebone. The dining room is dinky with white linen-covered tables, burnt orange leather banquettes and arty Tom Raffield light shades. Considering the space on offer, they’ve made the most of it, although it is quite treacherous getting down the tight spiral staircase to the toilets after multiple courses and a lengthy wine flight.

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There is an 18 course full tasting menu, a shorter 10 course option, or if you want a brief lunch experience, 3 courses for £40 (with a few extras). I’ve now visited Roganic three times, the lunch menu is perfectly light and illustrates the essence of the tasting menu, but Rogan’s full talent is truly on show in the full tasting menu.

Magenta pink preserved raspberry tart and fermented beetroot and apple provided a punchy start to the meal, earthy in tone, bright in colour and light in texture.

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After a few more immaculate mouthfuls we moved on to the slightly larger plates. I adored the onion broth with westcombe cheddar, soft and pillowy cheese dumplings floating in a comforting warm onion water, it was delicate and exquisite. Also brilliant was the asparagus cooked in bone marrow with leek ash and creamy hollandaise sauce. Although simple in appearance, I was aware that a lot of care and attention had gone into these tiny morsels.

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I have tried the Salt baked celeriac with enoki and lovage three times now, as it is one of the few dishes that has remained on the menu since opening. This unusual recipe still thrills, a sweet and malty assortment of flavours, with contrast of textures of tastes.

21 day dry aged cumbrian pork is a reminder of L’Enclume. Using premium Lake District produce, Rogan elevates the pork with an intense carrot puree and a rich and glossy jus.

Before each course arrived the sommelier visited us with an expert wine suggestion. I could only manage a sip of each wine, but was continually amazed by the clever pairings and interesting stories we were told about each wine’s vintage, vineyard and grape variety.

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Save space for the desserts on the tasting menu… the pastry section of the kitchen flourish at Roganic, producing desserts that are full of flair and new ideas. A small wooden bowl of creamy ice crumbs revealed a bright pink rhubarb sweet stew, which combined perfectly with the icy buttermilk.

Then we moved on to Burnt milk with chamomile and whey. The burnt milk crisp has a caramelised taste, while the ice cream has a herbaceous depth and a touch of sweetness… it is a match made in heaven.

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At Roganic the best is left till last, when a jolly chef presents a caramelised apple & douglas fir ice-cream. The taste is similar to a tarte tatin with a woodland flavoured ice-cream that you’d expect to find in a Scandi restaurant. The apple has been peeled with a mandolin and reconstructed again to look like an apple; each of the wafer thin apple slices is divinely sticky and sweet. We marvelled at the artistry in silence whilst gobbling up every last mouthful.

Roganic

Roganic truly excels at every part of the dining experience, the service is friendly and professional, the atmosphere is hushed but has a definite warmth. You feel lucky sitting in the restaurant, and I got the impression that, unlike many of Marylebone’s plain posh restaurants, everyone sitting in Roganic really, really wanted to be here.

After our epic 18 course lunch we left Roganic full and inspired, with a goodie bag of scones and jam, in case we needed a snack that evening. The team at Roganic have thought of everything.

More information and book a table at Roganic here.