As a second generation Italian, I’d like to think I know a bit about Italian food but I’m (sometimes unreasonably) sceptical about eating anything other than my family’s home cooked fare. So when Milly asked if I’d review the new WOLF II in the city, I was a little dubious but I’d heard great things about the original so off I went in the blazing sunshine into the depths of the city.
The restaurant is situated in the shiny new Finsbury Square nestled amongst other similar venues and towering office blocks. There are a few tables inside, but we chose a table outside in the sunshine. Don’t expect to have a table to yourself though. The outside area is shared with neighbouring food outlets and understandably gets very busy, especially around lunchtime.
We started off with a couple of Aperitivi: A classic Aperol Spritz and an “Inglese” a cucumber-based gin and tonic with San Germain, both of which were delightful.
A ‘May’ salad and a Burrata starter came swiftly after ordering. The salad was light and full of flavour, a little sweet for me, but the pickled rhubarb was a nice addition. The burrata was lovely but then again, burrata is very easy to love and it sounded much more exciting on paper than it actually was (with pomegranate molasses, balsamico, new seasons olive oil, dehydrated and fresh tomatoes finished with iced basil).
We also ordered two of the four pasta options, an orichette with parsley root and tenderstem broccoli and a wild boar pappadelle. The orichette was quite pleasant, the parsley root gave a lovely earthy quality and the broccoli was well cooked. The pappadelle was, sadly, a let down. The flavour of the ragu was good but it lacked sauce and had I suspect had been sitting around for a while before it was served to us as it had started to dry out and stick together.
By far the star of our lunch was the wonderful polenta cake. Moist, just the right amount of sweet and bursting with orange flavour, it was a delightful end to an otherwise rather average lunch.
If you pay a visit to Wolf II expecting Wolf original standard food at cut prices, I’m afraid you’ll be disappointed but it’s a perfectly acceptable place for a quick lunch.
More information about Wolf II here.
Written by a Thoroughly Modern Miss, Giovanna Ryan.