THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN: David Bowie is,V&A

David Bowie is… is a disturbing exhibition.

For a start there is the large number of greying glam rockers feeling the agonies of unrequited love all over again as they stand mesmerised by Bowie costumes, videos and portraits. Then there is the problem of everybody wearing audio guides and shuffling around in the near-darkness like a troupe of zombies from some Diamond Dogs style dystopia. And there is the fact that the concentration of the Bowie phenomenon was the 1970s, forty years ago and there have been some less edifying creative moments since – this is addressed by ornamenting the full length of the show with 70s highlights thereby confusing any chronology and sense of evolution.

This is a new kind of exhibition: an examination of a single living individual as cultural catalyst and all round icon. There are not many artists who warrant such attention. David Bowie does. The blanket media coverage of his creative rebirth and the simultaneous hype surrounding this show have produced a dazzling glare illuminating, rather than over-exposing, his significance as musician, fashion pioneer and popular conceptualist.

The outfits are still extraordinary, the music is still inspiring and the man still appears exotically beautiful. Everybody is seduced by his art once again. However it is the way he redefined gender that is probably his most important legacy. Is there any more widely cited televisual epiphany than the draping of Bowie’s arm over Mick Ronson’s shoulder on Top of the Pops? That is the closest we have come to an extraterrestrial invasion – the starman blew our minds.

Continues until 11 August 2013, more information and become and V&A member here.

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, Chris Kenny.

Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950, V&A

Looking round the costume department at the V&A is one of my favourite lunchtime activities, so I was very excited when the Ballgowns exhibition was announced. This show is part of the British Design Season and celebrates the opening of the newly renovated Fashion Galleries at the V&A.

Wandering round the Victoria and Albert Museum alone is always enchanting, with another magical artefact to discover on each visit. On a sunny Thursday lunchtime, the galleries were teeming with culture hungry visitors. The space allocated to the Ballgowns was very dimly lit with women gathering round each garment nattering away about the material, cut and colour. I tried to dodge the students discussing and furiously sketching to get a good look at the clothes myself.

Ballgowns: British Glamour since 1950 showcases some of the most fabulous dresses from the last six decades up to the present day. The collection includes catwalk showstoppers, red carpet attire and beautiful occasion dresses. There are more than sixty designs on display, including several notable royal dresses, of which Princess Diana’s ‘Elvis Dress’designed by Catherine Walker is perhaps the most spectacular. Every dress has a story and it is fascinating learning the history of these couture gowns. Many of them have been designed and made especially for a particular individual or celebrity and so the style relates to their character and role in society, and truly captures a moment.

Interestingly the dresses are arranged and exhibited by colour rather than date. Every ballgown has a timeless elegance and yet the obvious era changes and shifts in society are evident in tailoring and shape. The development of new ideals can be seen in the radical move from tight restrictive corseted dresses to floaty ethereal gowns that skim rather than cling to a women’s figure. I was a particular fan of the bigger more ostentatious dresses, the fairytale princess gowns that would look so uncommon and bizarre at the parties I go to but must suit the society balls that I would love to experience, just once.

On the Mezzanine level contemporary ballgowns are displayed, some of which are straight off the catwalk: luxurious, extravagant and utterly stunning gowns dreamed up and carefully created by world-renowned designers including Alexander McQueen, Erdem, Roland Mouret, Marchesa and Mary Katrantzou. I loved the remarkable feather gown, and the crystal encrusted dress that Beyonce donned for her performance for the Obamas.

This exhibition is certainly the fashion show of the season… I left wishing the dresses were in my wardrobe.

Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950, sponsored by Coutts, runs at the V&A from 19 May 2012 – 6 January 2013.

http://www.vam.ac.uk/