Matbaren, Stockholm

Mathias Dahlgren is one of Stockholm’s culinary leaders, with two Michelin starred establishments, both within the iconic Grand Hotel. Overlooking the waterfront, this prestigious, palatial hotel has been an important presence in Stockholm for over 130 years and is steeped in history and tradition.

The indulgent and smart Matsalen restaurant has two stars and is considered one of Stockholm’s top culinary establishments. The menu features experimental Swedish fare, innovative and delicious, and an impressive wine list. But if you are after something a little more casual, Matbaren is the perfect option. Known as ‘the food bar,’ this quirky eatery which also has a Michelin star, has been designed by Ilse Crawford and reflects the fun nature of the dishes created in the kitchen.

After a morning of energetic sightseeing, we were excited to be trying Matbaren for lunch. The dining room is eclectic, full of light and colour. Almost every table was occupied with animated guests chatting away and enjoying their plates of vibrant, fragrant food. The layout of the restaurant is economical and tables are set with brown paper menus which list the wide variety of dishes. This menu can change daily as it is based on the Scandinavian ingredients available.

Bread is concealed within a dated paper bag on the table – we tucked in straight away starving from all the walking. There were several dishes that really appealed to me on the menu, but I opted for the intriguing “Steamed bun BBQ style” brisket, smoked and pickled peppers, onions. It arrived in a blue and white Chinese bowl, two overflowing steamed buns, stuffed full of tender caramelised meat, spicy mayonnaise, fresh crunchy salad leaves, tangy pickled onions and peppers, and garnished with crispy fried onions. The smell, sight and taste was a sensory delight, and all talking at our table stopped as I concentrated solely on the food in front of me, enjoying every moment despite making an enormous mess! My mum, rather more healthily, tried the Variation of cabbage and winter truffle with lemon and black pepper. It was presented in a less organised fashion, but was cooked to perfection and tasted divine, the richness of the truffle paired with soft buttery cabbage.

For the sweet course we tried the Baked wild chocolate from Bolivia with sour cream, toffee ice cream, nuts and the Sabayonne of biodynamic lemons with vanilla ice-cream, meringues, olive oil. The chocolate pudding was dense and luxurious topped with a sticky toffee sauce and accompanied with contrasting silky ice-cream on a bed of crushed nuts. I adored the Sabayonne which was flavoured with strong citrus and yet carefully balanced with the sweet crumbly meringue and comforting vanilla ice-cream.

Before we left we had just enough time to enjoy a strong blend of Scandinavian coffee with chocolates and homemade Madeleines. I was already plotting which dishes I would try on my return visit! Matbaren is the best of both worlds: Michelin star standard food with a laid-back ambience.

More information and book a table here.

Many thanks to Visit Stockholm for their help with this trip.

Ett Hem, Stockholm

Ett Hem means ‘a home’ and I think this boutique hotel might be the most beautiful home I have ever seen. Located on the outskirts of Stockholm, this fairy tale house is welcoming and comforting. With just twelve rooms, the atmosphere is intimate and the service personal. Despite the luxurious setting the ambience is relaxed and casual and guests are encouraged to sit where they wish, dine where they desire and work where they want.

The converted 100-year-old red brick building reminded me of a gingerbread house, especially from the outside. It has striking turquoise features on the roof and pipes and a surrounding brick wall with an intriguing but unassuming wooden door, which makes it all feel very exclusive but friendly.

Designer Isle Crawford has added character and charm to a variety of buildings, hotels, and shops… but at Ett Hem her passion for the art of interior decorating seems more vital than ever before. Repetition doesn’t exist here, every corner features an inimitable vintage find and every surface showcases a unique item. Should you wish to read there is a colourful bookcase to choose a story from, or if you want to play music, a stylish guitar sits patiently nearby. In the kitchen the farmhouse style dining table is always ready for diners and the fridge is open 24 hours a day for hungry visitors. I loved the whimsical greenhouse area and the romantic courtyard garden which I’m sure is particularly lovely in summer. I also spotted a few bicycles here which guests can take out and use round the city.

Our bedroom was at the top of the house, room number 11. Downstairs the living room space is magically decorated with quirky things in every corner. Our bedroom however was more typically Scandinavian… simple clean aesthetics with a dose of style and plenty of character, the colours more muted and the furniture more minimalist. The floor was a warm honey coloured wood and the big bed looked majestic draped in grey blankets and cushions with a spotlight from the bedside tables on either side.

A small retro cabinet held the minibar temptations and a low book shelf was stocked full of intelligent and pretty books. Beneath the window a small desk offered a place to work, and also displayed a copy of owner Jeanette Mix’s beautifully illustrated book of carefully selected things to do in Stockholm. The bathroom was the perfect glamorous boudoir. Clad in a sand shade of marble with gold fittings and Kiehl’s coconut shampoo and conditioner, it was an immaculately swish room.

Breakfast at Ett Hem feels like a particularly special meal, you are offered ‘anything you like’ to be eaten ‘anywhere in the hotel’. We found it difficult to choose between the equally beautiful rooms but eventually decided on the chic sofas in the light and airy glasshouse. Here we were served sweet freshly squeezed orange juice, smooth creamy coffee, and a variety of bowls holding thick yoghurt, homemade granola and jewel red fruits. If I wasn’t so full from our meal the night before, I would have indulged in the just-cooked waffles too!

Although small, this boutique hotel caters for business needs adapting various rooms and spaces into creative meeting environments. For fitness and wellness there is a small exclusive sauna and a gym downstairs for those wishing to burn a few calories. However where Ett Hem really excels is in its culinary offerings. Many are vying to visit to try the innovative and delicious meals from the rustic but revolutionary kitchen. The seasonal dishes are lovingly prepared and brilliantly executed and the menu changes frequently.

My favourite details at Ett Hem were the things you don’t see instantly, but instead the thoughtful subtle touches that make one’s stay unforgettable: the alluring, bespoke scent from Fueguia in the air, the specially made Italian duvets that feel like you are collapsing into a marshmallow, the daily home baked cake that guests can tuck into throughout the afternoon.

More information and book a stay at Ett Hem here.

Selma CitySpa, Stockholm

At the top of the towering Clarion Sign Hotel in Stockholm is a rooftop spa that will transport you away from the stress of the city to a world of relaxation. The skies were getting heavier outside as we walked into the smart design hotel. We popped straight into the lift and zoomed up to the top floor where a couple of smiling therapists were waiting for us.

Selma CitySpa, as it is known, has thought of everything the modern girl about town desires: a stylish spa with a healthy sushi bar, and treatments which pamper and sooth. The muted purple and beige interior immediately offers a tranquil environment for guests. After changing into the huge towelling robes we were taken through for our treatments.

The staff here were genuinely friendly, my mum was still chatting to her therapist long after her facial had finished! I enjoyed an expert Swedish massage which ironed out some serious knots in my shoulders and lower back. Lying on the comforting heated bed I could have easily have drifted off. My mum, who admitted it was only her second facial ever, absolutely loved the opportunity to sit back and let a professional examine and assess her skin. They layered different lotions and potions on to leave her skin looking bright and beautiful.

As I wandered round the spa I noticed an Olympic champion swimmer walking outside to the open air rooftop area. I followed her and the film crew to discover an azure blue pool, heated to 35 degrees, so guests can enjoy it all year round. It is the only one of its kind in Stockholm and it certainly gives the spa the wow factor.

The spa offers a lovely light room for manicures and pedicures and a Bliss counter for speedy refreshing treatments.

Up in the clouds, Selma CitySpa is Stockholm’s most heavenly spa. A secret for those in the know, and a real treat for us in between sightseeing stints in Stockholm.

More information and book a spa treatment here.

Many thanks to Visit Stockholm for their help with this trip.