We both had a nightmare journey getting to the Bingham. My poor friend and her broken sat-nav got completely lost in Surrey suburbia while I battled with a horribly aggressive taxi driver, who insisted on getting out of his car and shouting at me as I ran to the hotel doors. I was relieved to be greeted by the smiling Bingham staff, who escorted me gently to the lounge and blazing log fire. Externally the Bingham Hotel has a low profile, this sophisticated Georgian Townhouse could easily be mistaken for a private property. Inside, there is a quiet buzz of activity as guests and visitors enjoy the comforting surroundings. I rested as I waited for the other distressed member of my lunch party.
Almost half an hour later than our original booking time and we were finally ready to go… we apologised profusely though the waiters seemed completely unfazed and instead offered warm welcomes and a lovely corner table overlooking the restaurant.
The smart light and airy dining room is luxuriously appointed with wooden flooring and French windows revealing a lovely al fresco balcony for summer… this stunning room raised our expectations. This restaurant once had a Michelin star, but two years ago lost it for no apparent reason, and in 2012 failed to regain it, again without explanation. We wondered why throughout our lunch.
Guests can choose between the reasonable but restricted market menu, the six course tasting menu or the a la carte. Interested by the variety in the a la carte, we both chose this option. Chef Shay Cooper uses the freshest seasonal ingredients to create irresistible Modern British cuisine and we thought this was best exemplified in the full menu.
To start:
Venison tartare with preserved vegetable salad, foie gras mousse, horseradish creme fraiche
Winter vegetable salad with crispy onions, organic leaves, goats curd, walnut vinaigrette
For main:
Cornish Stone Bass with braised endive, artichoke, glazed salsify, potato gnocchi, bergamot lemon, mushroom vinaigrette
Saddle of rabbit with grilled pear, cured ham, smoked celeriac, braised rabbit, truffle sauce
To finish:
Selection of British and Continental cheeses
Mascarpone Mousse with candied pistachios, espresso ice cream, hot valrhona chocolate sauce
Salted Butter Caramel with apple compote, cider cream, bitter chocolate vanilla ice cream
After a delicious vegetarian mousse amuse bouche we decided to leave the bread, avoiding the risk of becoming too full to enjoy the meal. Service was professional but relaxed and very efficient throughout. Our waiter seemed to possess impressive expert knowledge on all of the food and wines. The dishes were presented in an incredibly clean and attractive way, and thanks to the natural daylight in the restaurant each plate really did look beautiful.
The Winter salad was one of the best I’ve ever tried… a variety of different colours, textures and tastes make what could be a very boring choice into an imaginative feast of flavour. The soft creamy goats curd was matched with crunchy leaves and sweet caramelised vegetables, every mouthful was different. The venison was carefully arranged with the other components, green lettuce and pink onion adding colour, another artistic masterpiece.
Mains were the perfect size, both wholesome, well balanced dishes. The delicate and light Stone Bass was served with a variety of subtly flavoured vegetables to avoid overpowering the fish and a rich and creamy gnocchi cheese on the side for eating with the fish or separately afterwards. The rabbit was exquisite, wrapped in Iberico ham and precisely cooked so that the rabbit was tender but the ham was crispy and almost caramelised. The grilled pear was a surprisingly delicious addition to the dish and the truffle sauce added a touch of extra indulgence.
After a round of the best cheeses to share, from the Teddington Cheese shop up the road, it was time for puddings. The list of sweet options all sounded so tempting that it took some time to choose our final two… and even then we promised we’d share. Interestingly we both had our favourites… for me the clear winner was the salted butter caramel, a wicked dessert with an odd but brilliant mix of flavours. The chocolate salted caramel disc in the centre was soft and buttery and worked well with the acidic apple compote and the sweet cider cream. Definitely in my top three desserts I’ve eaten, ever. The mascarpone mousse was completely unique and faultlessly tasty too. Hot chocolate sauce is poured over the hard chocolate casing to melt a piercing hole. The light creamy mousse is mixed indulgently with the chocolate, and the nuts add a bit of exotic crunch.
With our strong coffees we received a final plate of treats… tiny heavenly handmade petit fours: macaroons, bailey truffles and fruit jellies.
The Bingham restaurant is better than many 2 Michelin star restaurants I have eaten in and I feel completely baffled by the board’s decision to withdraw the one star. This eatery deserves the highest recognition for offering the finest food, a magnificent menu and exemplary service. I would recommend this restaurant to even the fussiest foodies and the meanest critics.
www.thebingham.co.uk