Tag Archives: restaurant

THOROUGHLY MODERN MALE: Den, King’s Cross

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So Friday night has arrived and I’m off to Den Udon Kings Cross, for an evening of thick white flour noodles, with a few extras I hope. I’ve heard it is going to be healthy. That’s okay… I can be unhealthy on the way there and unhealthy on the way back, I may just survive the diet den.

Before heading to a new restaurant I like to do a bit of research (where it is, how to get there) but keep the intricate and exciting details of the menu and venue a surprise. I find it is best to let the restaurant staff’s expertise guide me though the menu, and I was particularly intrigued about the Japanese cuisine on offer here.

On arriving we went past the converted pub for 15 yards, before scrambling back and running in from the rain. I instantly liked the fact that they had transformed an unused venue, as there are many pubs in London that are being knocked down or turned into flats, but that is another gripe for another day, and into the converted pub we went.

We were seated on one of the simple benches with other guests and straight away a cocktail recommended by our waitress was handed to us. A Ginger Vodka delight which was simple and great. To start I had the Red Wine Stewed Pork Belly. This was my favourite of everything we tried, small but not too small, delicious cuts in a flavoursome marinade that were ample for a starter.

Onto main’s but not before another cocktail. It is important here to work through the cocktail menu as well as the food menu. The Bloody Den was fantastic, a Japanese inspired Bloody Mary curated by the delightful Director, Cristoforo Santini. I highly recommend this drink, perfect for a lunchtime refresher or a Friday evening kick-starter. For my main, I chose Prawn and Vegetable Tempura. I love prawns, but the sticky rice had little flavour. Japanese cuisine prides itself on its healthy nature, however a fresh sauce would have made this a much more complete dish.

Our waitress for the evening was very helpful and the Director Mr. Santini could not have done enough for every ‘bencher in the pub’. He worked the room and was a likeable restaurant director who showed passion for his restaurant.

I would always like a table separate from other Friday diners and my main course was lacking in flavour for me. That said Den will do very well, with a team always happy to share insight into the dishes and a Director with such a high level of enthusiasm. My starter and the drinks were superb, so take my advice and have an evening of Japanese health in Kings Cross. Just make sure you remember to stop off for chocolate on the way home!

More information about Den here: www.den-udon.uk.com

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Male, Nick Gray.

Portland, Great Portland Street

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January is a month of diets and detoxes, and yet London’s restaurant scene shows no sign of slowing with a new venue opening every few days across the capital. The latest to hit the headlines and thrill the food bloggers is Portland, aptly named, considering its location on Great Portland Street.

Fay Maschler has already visited twice and even said she’d discovered some of “her best dishes of the year” in her recent review. Needless to say, by the time you read this securing a reservation may be impossible.

The menu concept is based on the best produce cooked as simply as possible and is headed up by Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau, the talented people behind Quality Chop House and 10 Greek Street. The restaurant follows the popular minimalist Scandinavian design, lots of bare wood and exposed lightbulbs and some intriguing artwork on the walls, I noticed an Egon Schiele print. There isn’t much room with only forty-five covers, so guests are booted out after two hours: I usually get through three courses in sixty minutes so it is no problem for me.

Chef Merlin Labron-Johnson previously worked in a Michelin-starred restaurant in Belgium before joining the kitchen at Portland. His inventive recipes use unusual ingredients and they are slickly executed.  We were sat brilliantly close to the open kitchen, nearby to the vintage jars of home pickled vegetables. We started with the delightful Pig’s head croquettes balanced on a dollop of kimchi mayonnaise. Rich and moist meat with a salty crunchy breadcrumbed exterior and a luxurious dip, it was the perfect combination.

We created a meal with an assortment of smaller dishes and a main. The chef’s interest in foraging was evident in the heritage carrot dish, where attractive varying shades of rustic vegetables are presented upright in a bed of puree. They had a lovely roasted caramelised flavour and were paired with shaved nutty Mimolette Vielle cheese and crunchy seeds. Charred brassicas were luscious green stems with a smoking egg emulsion (similar to Hollandaise sauce, but lighter), soy and Perigord truffle, an original recipe with oriental elements, and miraculously worked very well. For main course, the Fallow deer is a rich and glossy piece of meat, too rare for me but with a lovely crispy edge.

If you are in need of a sweet treat go for the chocolate bar with peanut butter praline and peanut ice-cream, a deliciously glorified Snickers dessert. Portland serve some short cocktails which work well as aperitifs and are well priced at £8-9. We drank a rather small glass of house wine each, an earthy fruity French white.

Portland has only been open a few weeks and is already a promising place to enjoy exciting food in a convivial environment. I’m excited to see how this restaurant progresses, hopefully bringing the success of Soho to the other side of Oxford Street.

More information and book here: portlandrestaurant.co.uk

Le Relais des Moines, Provence

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I have never had much need to visit restaurants in Provence. The fresh market produce and my family’s culinary enthusiasm mean a great meal is never far away. However on my last trip to the South of France I did a bit of exploring, keen to discover what Michelin star eateries offer in this part of the world.

Le Relais des Moines ticked a lot of boxes: close to home, good value lunch menu and very appealing sounding dishes. Head chef Sebastien Sanjou cooks passionately but meticulously with the vibrant flavours of Provence, preparing thoughtful dishes that are clever yet uncomplicated. This simplicity emphasises the quality of the ingredients used.

Located on the route to St Roseline in a quiet corner of the Var countryside, the restaurant is set in a beautiful preserved 16th century stone house overlooking the lush Cote D’Azur, illuminated by the southern sunshine. We sat at a calm table near the window, so we could admire the views while enjoying our food and drinking wine from nearby vineyards.

The lunch menu costs 39 euros a head and includes three courses, two glasses of wine and half a bottle of water, coffee and petit fours, and numerous little extra amuse-bouches throughout. Immediately unusual and delicious tiny tasters arrived to perk up our palates… cauliflower jelly, crispy bread-crumbed beef, and a glass vessel of mushroom soup. For starter we loved the small but rich bowl of chestnut veloute, lightly grilled foie gras, crunchy croutons, slivers of bacon and green cabbage. Despite the rich ingredients, the dish was delicate, thanks to the airy recipe and careful seasoning.

The main course was bold and brilliant, and I couldn’t believe our luck, as it was the only option on the set lunch menu – fine lean pieces of gorgeous beef dressed with braised mushroom and a foam with an intriguing woody flavour. The meat, though very pink for me, was so tender and tasty that I didn’t notice its rareness. The jus had clearly been given all the chef’s attention and had a real depth of flavour. After the waitress drizzled a little over our plates I asked her sweetly if she could leave the little jug of steaming sauce on the table, needless to say when she came to pick up the empty plates the jug was also empty.

Dessert was a more extravagant version of my favourite breakfast recipe. Pain Perdu (similar to French toast) with pear sorbet, caramel, sugary nuts and nougatine was a delight of different textures and flavours: soft warm cooked bread surrounded by a pool of sticky caramel sauce and topped with cooling fruity sorbet and vanilla bean silky cream. I scraped up every last bit with barely a breath between mouthfuls. If you are going for the more luxurious a la carte menu, I’ve heard the mandarin dessert is unmissable.

Hidden away in the hills of Provence this restaurant showcases the flavours and captures the atmosphere of the area perfectly. I can’t think of anywhere in London where a Michelin starred lunch offers such masterful food, special wine and value for your money.

More information and book a table here.