Tag Archives: restaurant

The Salon, Brixton

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Most of the eateries in Brixton market are rough and ready, take outs and quick eats. The Salon, however, offers some refinement and sophistication despite its shabby chic appearance. This small rustic restaurant serves seasonal plates of food utilising the British produce available in and around South London. Located above the Salon deli, the upstairs kitchen has the ideal larder in which to get the fresh and flavoursome ingredients.

The compulsory set menu eliminates the conundrum of deciding between dishes. Priced at £29 for four courses, the menu is designed for the whole table to enjoy. But before we got involved in our carte du jour, there were aperitifs and snacks to enjoy. I tried the summery and refreshing Rhubarb Gin Fizz, though I would also recommend a bottle of the local Brixton Brewery beer. ‘Nduja Croquettes were the perfect nibbles to accompany our drinks, seriously tasty aromatic balls served with pickled cucumber and a creamy aioli.

Set Menu

Romanesco, Tarragon, Dandelion, Grapefruit

Ham, Egg, Turnip Tops

Swaledale Lamb, Jersey Royals, Seaweed

Rhubarb, Buttermilk, Roasted White Chocolate, Oats

Romanesco is a beautiful green-tinged vegetable from the broccoli / cauliflower family. The subtle taste and hard texture worked well with the tangy citrus grapefruit and the creamy tarragon sauce. It was a light and vibrant starter to awaken the taste buds and alert the palate. Next up was a warming bowl of goodness. This dish felt Asian inspired with a clear broth soup and floating poached egg, charred greenery and tender slow cooked pork. It felt healthy and soothing, with a touch of richness from the egg yolk.

For main course we were treated to a glorious piece of lean lamb with some braised meat presented on a bed of samphire, tiny jersey royals and a powerful green sauce. I couldn’t taste seaweed precisely but the earthy flavours of the vegetables complemented the meat. With the absence of carbohydrates it was a lovely dish that felt substantial but not too heavy. I needed to add a little extra seasoning but aside from that the dish was faultless.

A brief cheese course followed, a showcase of the best British cheeses, soft, hard and blue. I don’t normally favour the sweet and savoury combinations but in this case the homemade red onion chutney was a suitable accompaniment to the indulgent cheeses. Finally a sweet course, and one that I had been excitedly anticipating for the whole meal. A luscious assortment of flavours: poached and puréed rhubarb made the dish a pretty shade of pink, arranged with buttermilk mousse and shards of burnt white chocolate. It was a graceful and airy dessert, and I scraped my plate clean with a big smile on my face.

The Salon was a real delight; innovative and delicious British food in a casually cool setting. Simple dining with a focus on the food, you couldn’t ask for more.

This small eatery is also available for exclusive hire and would be the perfect setting for a special celebration or meal. More information and book here.

More information and book a table at The Salon here.

Pret a Diner, The Bohemians, Cafe Royal

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You never know quite what to expect at a Pret a Diner event. The concept was founded by KP Kofler who hoped to create an extravagant sensory experience combining Michelin star food, cocktails, art and music. Recently the creative company returned to London for a stint at Cafe Royal’s exclusive private members club. This season they present ‘The Bohemians’, an evening which shakes up the tradition of this historic hotel and assaults you with inventive food and expressive artwork.
 
The Cafe Royal’s executive chef Andrew Turner is joined by two New York based chefs: Patti Jackson (Michelin star restaurant, Delaware and Hudson in Brooklyn) and West Village resident Ryan Tate (Blenheim, Le Restaurant). The three have teamed up to create an indulgent four-course menu which is paired with an optional wine flight. Drinks for the evening are curated by Tiziano Tasso (Club Bars Manager at Café Royal) and Dominic Jacobs (Jacobs Chase and The Whip).
 
Walking into the glamorous but discreet Cafe Royal Hotel, everything seemed to be running as normal with no indicators that a bohemian bonanza may be underway somewhere in the building. First we were taken through to the bar area to trial the bespoke bohemian cocktails, which were strong and delicious. Colourful paintings by Ryan Hewett and Jake Wood-Evans clash with the ordered and sensible surroundings.
 
At 7pm we were taken through to the dining room, a smart interior which has clearly been given a Pret a Diner makeover. The room was ablaze with a pink lighting that suddenly made it feel much later in the evening than it actually was. Despite the wacky decor and grungy beats from the DJ on the decks it was a civilised scenario, hip waiters in t-shirts and tattoos attending to the tables with the utmost decorum.
 
The food was refined yet quirky, some of the dishes excellent, others less inspiring. The plate of mini bites arrived slightly haphazardly presented but intensely flavoured with strong luxurious ingredients. We particularly enjoyed the cheese and truffle mousse and the NYC inspired Dutchy Pretzel bread.
 
The Tuna Carpaccio with pickled vegetables was created by Andrew Turner – the tuna was smooth and silky with a zingy sauce and a little boiled quail’s egg for a touch of richness. For main course there was a choice between Duck or Seabass. The duck was a little undercooked for me but deeply flavoured, served on a bed of seasonal asparagus. The highlight of this dish was the crispy croquette which was cooked to perfection and filled with slow cooked tender meat. The seabass was light and fragrant on a pretty bed of red pepper sauce and delicate fennel and dill.
 
Dessert was a child’s paradise… a giant meringue holding strawberries, maple vacherin and buttermilk. Paired with a lovely glass of French dessert wine which made it a more grown-up affair.
 
We visited Pret a Diner early in the evening, and it whizzed by in flash as we enjoyed the decadent offerings that were continuously brought to our table. I imagine later on, with the room filled to capacity it might be a less sober and more thrillingly raucous evening. Walking out into the daylight, it felt like we’d stepped out of a bohemian bubble and back into the real world. 

Continues until 23 May, more information and book here.

Restaurant Ask, Helsinki

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It is all about organic food, organic wine and organic living at Ask. This intimate little restaurant was my first experience of Michelin star dining in Helsinki and it was both surprising and sensational.

The restaurant, tucked away on a quiet street in the Kronohagen/Kruununhaka area, is inconspicuous and unassuming. We were among the first to be seated for the lunch sitting so had time to admire our surroundings and relish the tranquility. It soon became apparent that not many more diners were expected for the lunch sitting – I couldn’t understand why.

Food trends in Finland are changing, the locals are favouring informal eateries and street food. Destination dining seems to be suffering, especially at lunchtime. In London the Michelin restaurants excel at the lunch service as the more affordable menus are hugely popular with thrifty foodies and perfectly suit speedy business meetings. Finns are satisfied with a simple meal at noon, saving their substantial meal for the end of the day. The advantage? We had chef Filip’s undivided attention as he brought out delicate plates of flavoursome goodness.

Filip Langhoff is a young and determined chef who is helping to put Nordic food on the map. He was previously a chef at much loved two-star eatery Chez Dominique and also worked at famed restaurant Spisestedet Feinschmecker in Oslo. Filip and his wife Linda Stenman-Langhoff, a talented sommelier, opened Ask (which translates to ash tree) a few years ago, and it quickly gained a following.

Ask offers a daily menu dependant on the produce that small farmers and suppliers have available. There is no unnecessary fuss here and conventional fine dining (Filip winced when I used this phrase) is a distant memory. The focus is entirely on the ingredients and their heritage. Filip finds inspiration in nature and in the relationship between the environment and the people and translates this into immaculate plates of food.

Our menu was printed humbly on a slip of recycled organic brown paper:

Lunch @ Ask

Celeriac & Yoghurt

Egg & Brioche

Pike Perch & Leek

Malt & Spruce

49 euros

Every dish came in a different, completely unique container or vessel, a beautifully crafted pot or plate, that made the food look even more dramatic. Celeriac with yoghurt was a wild yet delicate dish, a pile of unruly stems sitting in a pool of thin sauce with a dollop of fresh creamy yoghurt adding an extra dimension. The egg and brioche was served warm and was a comforting treat, I just wanted more. The crunchy sweet brioche began to soak up the fragrant mushroom consommé while pretty fresh mushrooms add another texture and taste. A small poached egg added a richness to the recipe.

Instead of Pike Perch I was kindly given a meat substitute: a luxurious slice of beef topped with herbs and accompanied by charred leeks. The pike perch looked exquisite too, served with a creamy sauce and a striking coal dressing. Everything was cooked to perfection, emphasising the important heritage of the ingredients. For dessert we had our first taste of malt, a yeasty substance that reminded me of breakfast cereal. The malt was in the form of a doughnut sitting amongst a gritty biscuit crumb with soft ice-cream and woodland spruce particles. The meal was light and balanced offering a vibrant, innovative taste of Finland.

There are charming stories and memories behind all of Filip’s cooking, and I feel Ask restaurant only touches the surface of what this great chef is capable.

More information and book a table here.