Tag Archives: restaurant

Taberna do Mercado, Spitalfields Market

Posted on by

taberna 1taberna 2taberna 3taberna 4

Nuno Mendes is a quiet chef, so it probably came as quite a surprise when his kitchen at Chiltern Firehouse became the loudest, most talked about restaurant in London. As the hype begins to settle at the Marylebone establishment, Mendes is focusing his efforts on a new venture in Spitalfields Market.

Taberna do Mercado is a simple and unassuming eatery serving authentic Portuguese fare. It features recipes that Mendes remembers from his childhood from the south-west region of Alentejo. The restaurant is happily found in the busy marketplace, and with no reservations, it immediately evokes a very different feel to Chiltern Firehouse. Diners here are patient foodies rather than pushy celebs visiting for all the wrong reasons.

It is a modestly designed venue with distressed wooden floorboards, circular marble tables and whitewashed walls – a minimalist combination that instantly encourages a relaxed Mediterranean vibe. There is a kitchen inside and a live station outside. Here the stoves are expertly managed by head chef Antonio Galapito, who has worked with Mendes for years.

From the paper menu clipped to our table we chose a selection of tasty tapas style plates. I fondly remember the wisps of runner beans in batter, so light and moreish. Prawn rissoles were delectable parcels of tiny spicy prawns with a crunchy edge. There is a whole section of the menu devoted to the house-tinned fish, which is receiving rave reviews from fish fans. The plates of meat and cheese are particularly delicious paired with a glass of Portuguese wine, great for a light early evening snack. If you want to try something very traditional, opt for the Alheira sausage which has a consistency similar to ‘nduja but tastes quite different. Made with a mix of meats and bread it has a rich flavour but a rather stodgy texture, very tasty but unlike anything I have tried before.

Bifana is popular meaty snack in Lisbon, a crusty bread roll filled with thinly cut pork steak and mustard. It is the Portuguese version of a bacon bap and it is equally satisfying. It seemed a bit random amidst our meal, but I could imagine relishing this sandwich on a Sunday morning.

Desserts are unusual and daring. Abade de Priscos and port caramel is sure to be a crowd-pleaser. Made from a mix of egg yolks and pork fat it has a smooth texture and toffee taste and is served in a pool of sweet port. The olive oil cake also looked intriguing, I am keen to try it on my next visit.

Mendes can often be seen wandering calmly around the venue. It is a different man to the one I saw looking stressed in the famed Marylebone restaurant. Here he presents a cuisine he is sentimental and proud about and that love shows in the vibrantly flavoured food and charming atmosphere in the dining room.

More information here: www.tabernamercado.co.uk

Angler, Moorgate

Posted on by

a1a3

I am slowly ticking the D&D restaurants off my ‘to eat’ list. The successful company have numerous venues around London, each with its own character and cuisine. South Place Hotel is their first hotel venture and the fashionable accommodation has 80-bedrooms. It is a luxurious but characterful choice in the City of London, just minutes away from Moorgate and Liverpool Street stations.

The hotel feels like a rare gem amongst the slick city blocks with Conran-designed interiors, 2 restaurants, 3 bars and 5 private dining and meeting rooms. It is energetic and offers a glimpse into the vibrant culture of London and has strong links to the neighbouring districts. I will tell you about the bedrooms on another occasion, as we were here to try the celebrated fish restaurant Angler on the top floor of the hotel.

After an immaculately mixed cocktail in the first floor Secret Garden bar we headed upstairs for an evening of wining and dining. Like the hotel design, Angler restaurant is sophisticated and subtle with a touch of personality. Slate grey carpets, pristine white clothed tables and striped chairs. The large slanted windows let in plenty of natural light, the unusual shape of the room definitely makes it feel like a destination eatery.

The menu for Angler focusses on fish, a speciality of head chef Tony Fleming. Starving after my purposefully meagre lunch I was salivating just reading through the luxurious and creative menu. Soon the sommelier was by our side, serving us both a glass of special champagne.

Before starters we were treated to a mouthful of heaven – a mousse of cauliflower and cheese – it was utterly scrumptious and very moreish. Warm bread, fresh from the oven was also delivered, a dangerous distraction on the table. From the menu we chose the following:

Starters

Shellfish ravioli, tomato & chive butter, fennel & ginger slaw £17.50

Isle of Wight tomatoes, mozzarella di Campania, bitter leaves, basil dressing £13.50

Mains

Fillet of John Dory, cannelloni of lobster, peas, clams, smoked bacon £34.50

Roast guinea fowl, seared foie gras, sweet onion purée, Périgord truffle sauce £34.50

Deserts

Chocolate fondant, pistachio ice cream £8.50

Buttermilk panna cotta, raspberry & rose infusion, lychee granita £8.50

a4a5a6a7

Each plate was beautifully arranged to showcase the food in the most attractive manner and illustrate the kitchen team’s innovative cooking style. The freshest single ravioli came filled with fresh shellfish. The pasta was magically thin with a decadently creamy sauce and a garnish of tomato, chives and spring onion. The tomato and mozzarella dish had a Mediterranean feel, served cold it was the ideal summery salad. A generous serving of torn creamy cheese, with ruby ripe tomatoes and shards of thin crispy bread. I loved it.

The John Dory was handsomely presented though I found the dark grey plate was a little oppressive. The fish was perfectly cooked and fell apart when touched with a knife to reveal a creamy white flesh. Placed on a bed of bright green pea puree and the cannelloni of lobster was possibly the tastier seafood I have ever tried.

The Guinea Fowl was on an oriental-style plate with a painting of a tree and carefully placed Chanterelle mushrooms which had a fruity but earthy aroma. The poultry was light and delicate, and worked well paired with the rich foie gras and sweet onion chutney. We were very lucky to receive adventurous and interesting wine pairings for each of the courses, explained eloquently by our sommelier for the night.

a8a9

My dessert was a lavish bowl of snow white panna cotta with a surrounding moat of raspberry and rose infusion with lychee granita. The pudding was girly and sweet with an exotic hint from the lychee. I would have liked a contrasting crunch in texture, but the flavour was delicious. The chocolate fondant was simple and classic, made professionally with a gooey centre and served with homemade pistachio ice-cream and a satisfying pile of cocoa nibs.

Angler is the ultimate fish lover’s restaurant, but also provides for those less keen of the fruits of the sea. There is reason enough to visit South Place Hotel but with Angler perched on the upper floor, there is now a reason to return again and again to this dynamic destination.

More information and book a table at Angler here: www.anglerrestaurant.com

The Gardeners Cottage, Edinburgh

Posted on by

The Gardener’s Cottage in Edinburgh is an idyllic place to eat and spend time. It is found up a little path surrounded by shrubs and vegetable patches. It all seems too good to be true. We creaked open the wooden door to reveal a tiny eatery with long communal tables and homely smells wafting in from the kitchen.

Sitting inside this quaint house, I felt instantly removed from the city and immersed in a countryside calm bliss. I wouldn’t have been surprised to see muddy wellies left by the door or energetic dogs waiting to be taken for a long walk. But instead we were here to enjoy a comforting seasonal brunch.

We soon learnt that this house, which was once the gardener’s cottage, dates back to 1836. The building remained deserted for a while until two chefs (Dale Maillet and Edward Murray) dedicated themselves to transforming it and the restaurant opened in 2012. The décor stylishly rugged with touches of artistic charm. Above the main table a green and white print quotes ‘watercooler watercress’.

In the evenings it is compulsory to have the daily seven course menu which costs £35, but for lunch or brunch you can choose from the reasonably priced a la carte menu. We enjoyed a late brunch here on a Sunday and I loved everything about the experience. With groups of friends and family surrounding us the atmosphere was jovial and jolly.

We tried a selection of simple dishes: Asparagus, wild garlic and bonnet quiche was divinely creamy and stuffed full of delicious asparagus. Mutton meatballs with ricotta, tomato and hazelnut maltagliati was a more generous portion size, comforting and tasty. Homemade rectangular pasta with wonderfully seasoned meatballs, tangy tomatoes and indulgent soft ricotta. I also recommend ordering a portion of the farmhouse bread and homemade butter.

A cafetiere of perfectly brewed black coffee and a slice of pressed chocolate cake with chocolate mousse and sherry ice-cream completed our meal. The Gardeners Cottage is effortlessly delightful, a gorgeous little den for eating and enjoying life’s little pleasures.

More information and book a table here.