River Cafe, Hammersmith

As December approached last year, I found I was being repeatedly asked: ‘where is the best place for a work Christmas meal and party’? The specifications were always challenging: big enough, cosy enough, special enough, posh enough, cheap enough, private dining facilities, entire exclusivity, location… there is so much to consider, and it is a daunting responsibility to choose the venue, date and menus to satisfy the whole company.

London venues fill up fast and the prices escalate as workers all over town become more desperate for the perfect venue. This year I had my work celebrations at a very special restaurant, The River Café in Hammersmith. On a misty Wednesday lunchtime the setting was bleak and beautiful by the river. The open plan restaurant looks industrial from the exterior, slightly like a swimming baths. But inside the dining room is light and fresh with white draped tables and a psychedelic neon pink oven at the rear of the restaurant.

We were seated at the back in the lovely private dining room which seats up to 18 guests. The dining room has its own entrance with views onto the terrace and into the open kitchen. Cheese lovers will enjoy looking at the glass fronted cheese room which exhibits a selection of unusual Italian cheeses. The waiters were kind and patient with our rowdy group! We started with flutes of Prosecco, battered artichokes and pumpkin bruschetta. For starters a selection of antipasti were delivered to the table – highlights were the plump and creamy buffalo mozzarella and delicately smoky prosciutto ham.

Known for its exquisite homemade pasta, I persuaded our waiter to allow me to have a River Café pasta dish, despite its absence on the set menu. The buttery Agnoli packages of pasta filled with a rich and aromatic mix of rabbit, pheasant, pancetta, bay and Il Balzo Chianti Rufina was divine, I could have eaten double the amount. Other successes round the table were the thick-cut roast veal chop with capers, sage, lemon peel, Prosciutto di Parma and Risina beans and the chargrilled, marinated leg of lamb with smashed pumpkin & potato and hot olive & anchovy sauce. It was a feast of Italian delights.

Dessert for me was a disappointment, I found the pannacotta with pomegranate sloppy and unappetisingly presented. I looked adoringly at the plate of cheese that my neighbour was devouring. Wine was carefully and expertly chosen throughout the meal, complementing the food and flavours.

The River Café is one of the longest running, most successful fine dining restaurants in London, and I was impressed with every aspect of our experience here.

Cucina Asellina, Strand

Cucina Asellina was unusually quiet for a Saturday morning, this new Italian eatery on the Strand was the location selected for my monthly brunch meeting with two girlfriends. It was the ideal place for a girly meal with charming Italian waiters and sensational food, all housed within a contemporary, attractively designed venue.

Based on the popular restaurant in New York, Cucina Asellina brings artisanal home-cooking inspired by the traditional flavours and textures of simple Italian cuisine reminiscent of a humble Mediterranean kitchen. It is difficult to fault the tempting menu of classic Meditteranean food and the ridiculously reasonable lunch offers (two courses for £15 or three courses for £19). This Spring, Cucina Asellina is celebrating the bank holiday weekend, with the introduction of its tavolata menu – taking inspiration from the traditional Italian style of dining, which brings family and friends together, centred around a great feasting table. A relaxed dining experience, the tavolata menu offers a variety of Italian sharing dishes, which will be presented in large bowls, allowing guests to serve one another. Priced from £26 for a minimum of two people, this includes a main of pasta, breads and salads. Highlights from the menu include: Square spaghetti, pomodoro, fresh basil and olive oil; Lemon and rosemary organic chicken, truffle crushed potatoes, pancetta and braised cabbage; Saffron strozzapretti, prawns, spinach and butternut squash and Oven baked wild Italian asparagus and pecorino lasagne.

Suffering from various woes, our appetites were all diminished slightly so we made a conscious effort not to over-order, instead picking a few starters to share and a pair of main courses to taste. Stuffed Cerignola Olives with Roasted Veal, Mortadella, Parmigiano with a Semolina crust arrived first to accompany our sparkling bellinis, the perfect appetisers. Next the starters came in a flurry of activity… Oven baked aubergine tortino with fresh ricotta and cheese fonduta, Calamari Fritti, with tomato relish and fresh marjoram and a cheese & meat selection. My favourite was the aubergine and tomato dish, intensely flavoured and appealingly gooey, it was very moreish. The array of neatly arranged cheese and salami tasted fresh off a plane from Italy, presented beautifully with garlicky oil and soft bread.

For second course we opted for Burrata Ravioli with dried tomatoes, infused balsamico and fresh oregano and an indulgent pizza topped with Prosciutto di S.Dadiele, Black Truffle, Fontina & Rucola. The black triangle ravioli was striking and wonderful, stuffed with vibrantly flavoured ingredients and smothered in a gorgeous butter and sage sauce. Ravioli is my ultimate Italian dish, and this was among the best I have tasted. The rustic pizza arrived on a wooden board, crispy and fresh overflowing with toppings. I found the truffle a little overpowering, shadowing the more delicate rocket taste, but the base was satisifyingly crispy.

We didn’t manage to be so scrupulous at dessert time, picking two of the recommended favourites to gorge on despite feeling rather full. The tiramisu was, as they suggested, the best in town… a truly perfect pudding – the contrasting components stacked in a glass tumbler, a fluffy rich cream with a delightful coffee soaked base, topped with dark chocolate shavings and on the side a scrumptious homemade Amaretto ice-cream. The Grappa pannacotta with honey roast pears was less impressive… I found the texture too smooth and was disappointed with the bland flavour.

Cucina Asellina offers stunning simple and seasonal Italian food, just as it should be. The perfect restaurant for any occasion.

336-337 Strand, Aldwych, London WC2 (020 7395 3445).

More information here.

Il Bocciolo, Wandsworth

The lucky residents of Wandsworth have a new Italian restaurant to boast about. Il Bocciolo (the rosebud) is a welcoming relaxed eatery serving an array of traditional Italian dishes. Young owner Luigi has accomplished an unusual feat, opening a restaurant at the age of just 25. He learnt from the best… growing up he worked in his parent’s restaurant on the Amalfi coast, learning the trade and cultivating an instinct about food, and in particular Italian cuisine. When he moved to London four years ago he was clearly determined to inspire Londoners with the food he had become so passionate about.

Feeling frayed from London’s unpredictable buses, we were starving and stressed and late for our booking at Il Bocciolo. Luigi has a calming presence and sweetly led us to a quiet corner table, retrieving water and prosecco while we relaxed. The venue is spacious but cosy, with an amorous Italian soundtrack adding to the convivial mood – it is the ideal restaurant to visit with friends for an intimate catch-up or for a more rowdy family reunion.

Plump herby olives arrived for us to nibble as we perused the menu. Il Bocciolo has a staggering choice of dishes, familiar and obscure. I prayed my appetite would hold out as there were more than several I wanted to try. To start we opted for Crispy calamari and courgettes, Tricolore salad and Melanzane (baked aubergine with laters of tomato and mozzarella). The kitchen efficiently prepared the dishes as well as some extra, complimentary rosemary Foccaccia and Arancini in tomato sauce; already my appetite was in danger of being defeated. The calamari were among the best I’ve tried, lightly coated in batter without becoming greasy, paired with the slivers of crunchy salted courgette. Tricolore salad was delicious, finely sliced tomato and gooey mozzarella, the avocado was a little under-ripe but I only noticed that because I am a fussy fan of this soft green fruit. My favourite was the melt-in-the-mouth melanzane, which I could happily have eaten as a main… perfectly cooked so that the aubergine was soft and not bitter with a sweet tomato sauce and generous oozing mozzarella – it was absolutely divine.

As a compromise we chose two pasta dishes and one meat, narrowed down from a much larger shortlist. Both pastas were tomato based: Meatballs with tagliatelle and Penne with aubergines, onions, mascarpone cheese & tomato sauce. The meatballs were gone almost instantly, I just about had time to taste a mouthful before my companion scoffed the lot. Needless to say they were very good, and well seasoned. Though simple, my pasta was irresistible and I was very sad not to finish it… a creamy tomato sauce with soft finely chopped vegetables, made more luxurious by the addition of mascarpone and grated parmesan. The rack of lamb was suggested to us when we could not decide on a meat option – it came dripping in mint sauce and accompanied by moreish (but very spicy) chilli broccoli and sautéed potato wedges. The meat was a fine cut, marbled nicely and cooked medium to ensure it was tender throughout.

Dessert caused further indecision: homemade Tiramisu or Pannacotta? Needing the kick from the coffee, I chose the tiramisu and we also ordered a chocolate fudge cake with ice-cream. The fudge cake was rich and tempting, served warm with masses of sweet sauce. I would definitely recommend trying one of Il Bocciolo’s homemade sweet treats. Tiramisu was utterly indulgent and delightful, layers of thick custardy cream and coffee soaked sponge topped in chocolate chips.

We rolled out of the restaurant, content and savouring our last mouthfuls. With miraculous instinct and unfaltering ambition, Luigi has succeeded in creating a menu of deliciously simple traditional Italian cuisine and a lovely place to enjoy it, a must for locals but also well worth travelling to.

More information here.

http://www.ilbocciolo.com/