Tag Archives: Michelin star

Hand and Flowers, Marlow

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After thirteen months of waiting, the special Saturday finally arrived to claim our table at Hand and Flowers. This charming gastropub in Marlow has received phenomenal accolades, the only venue of its kind to be awarded two Michelin stars. Considering the menu features simple British classics like fish and chips, it is an impressive feat for chef Tom Kerridge.

I am a great fan of Kerridge’s enthusiastic food and wine programme, where he takes to the stove with many of London’s most notable chefs. Winning Michelin stars was never his main ambition but his food has been recognised thanks to his dedication and natural talent for creating blissfully delicious comfort food. After stints in various kitchens, Tom and his wife Beth opened Hand and Flowers in 2005 and he recently took over the Coach pub down the road as a second, more casual venue.

We arrived early and sat in the cosy bar area, sipping on locally produced Perry whilst greedily perusing the menu. After a year of anticipation, I felt under great pressure to choose the best dishes on the menu. We followed the waitress through the narrow corridor to our corner table. The interior is decorated in a farmhouse chic style with mementos on the walls that indicate the chef’s jovial character. I felt like I was in the middle of the countryside, in from the cold and ready to tuck in to an indulgent meal.

Rustic bread and unsalted butter arrived, along with tiny crispy whitebait poking out of a homemade newspaper cone. The non-fish eaters were offered thimble sized bowls of piccalilli salad. The starters demonstrate Kerridge’s ability to elevate basic ingredients to create sophisticated dishes with just a few simple flavours. Potato “Risotto” with Pied de Mouton mushrooms and samphire was the perfect example of an original but humble dish, woody mushrooms, a hint of sage and a flawlessly executed potato invention. Crispy pig’s head with spiced date puree, apple, plum and pancetta was a boy’s starter with bold and rich flavour pairings. I stole several mouthfuls and enjoyed the tenderness of the softened pork covered in an irresistibly crispy crumb coat. I chose the dainty Roast English Onion Tart with Etuve Alliums, smoked butter and salt cured pork, it was a sensation of different textures, most exciting was the pile of crispy onion shards on top.

My dad chose a unique Christian Lauverjat Moulin des Vrilleres rose Sancerre – we are all still dreaming about it, light and smooth and the prettiest pale salmon colour. Despite the big flavours of our meat course, the versatile wine suited every plate. These dishes were a triumph, I’ve never seen so many happy customers round one table. The renowned Hand and Flowers fish and chips was a hit, the lightest Whiting coated in a non-oily crispy shell and served with the famous triple-fried chips, that did not disappoint. I had been alerted that the Slow Cooked Duck Breast is must-try, accompanied by Savoy cabbage, Duck Fat chips and gravy. The duck was silky smooth with almost a liver-like texture, perhaps from the sous-vide (water bath) method of cooking. The duck fat chips were richer and even more tasty than the standard chips.

For an utterly indulgent main the Fillet of Stokes Marsh Beef with Bearnaise sauce was a wise choice. A chunky compact piece of meat, garnished with butter and a skinny onion ring it was one of the very best steaks I have ever tasted. Again the meat was of the highest quality and cooked sensitively to ensure the best flavour and texture. I ordered the Tenderloin of Wiltshire Pork which was the only slightly disappointing dish, the meat was an unattractive shape and looked clumsy on the plate. Accompanied by pickled mustard leaf, malt glazed cheek, garlic sausage and potato dauphine, there were plenty of other things to enjoy on the plate, this assortment was more exciting and enjoyable that the main event.

We found the service a little hit and miss, and one slightly grumpy waiter (who had clearly cut his hand) wore a very unappealing blue plastic glove to serve the food. Considering the status of the restaurant and the length of the waiting list I expected the staff to be jollier!

Desserts were thankfully light and refreshing. Numerous recommendations led two members of our party to order the Bitter Orange Souffle with sweet toast crumb, cardamom ice cream and citrus syrup. The soufflé was the perfect light melt in the mouth texture and served with a delicious spicy ice cream, though we thought the intense citrus syrup was an unnecessary addition. I loved my pretty in pink Tonka bean panna cotta with poached rhubarb, ginger wine jelly and rhubarb sorbet. The wonderfully complex flavours worked well together, and in particular the miniature meringues and fuchsia, fruity sorbet was divine. The Hand and Flowers chocolate and ale cake with salted caramel and muscovado ice cream was an intriguing and successful pudding, delicately presented but with powerful flavours, served with a shot of ale.

Hand and Flowers has the perfect balance: inspired and delicious food and a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere. You don’t need to worry about dress code and yet the sophisticated dining experience will make the meal feel special. Outstanding fine dining with chips on the side… this restaurant combines the best of both worlds.

More information and book a table for 2016 here: www.thehandandflowers.co.uk

Chez Bruno, Lorgues

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There are some restaurants who fluke a Michelin star, but last week I visited a kitchen which strives for excellence every day and truly deserves this prestigious accolade. Visiting Chez Bruno, hidden away in the Provencal countryside, was a unique culinary experience and for me, it provided an education about the world of truffles.

Chez Bruno was opened in 1983 by Clément Bruno, a talented chef and world connoisseur of truffles. In 1999 the restaurant received its Michelin star which it has retained ever since.Chez Bruno has always been a family focussed business and three years ago Clément’s ambitious son, Benjamin took over the renowned kitchen. He continues the much-loved traditions of his father whilst creatively renewing recipes to showcase the truffle.

In summer the outdoor setting is dazzling, a beautiful haven surrounded by idyllic gardens; in winter the cosy sumptuous indoor dining room is warmed by a roaring fire and has a magical feel. We were lucky enough to be amidst the action in the kitchen at the chef’s table. We sat quietly observing as a whirlwind of chopping, cooking, cutting happened around us.

Champagne was swiftly delivered, and I relished the opportunity to chat to Benjamin about truffles and Provencal food. He emphasised that he likes to keep his recipes simple to let the fresh Provencal ingredients, and local truffles “speak for themselves”. Although he uses both local and imported truffles, and varieties of black and white, most of the produce is found within two hours of the restaurant, ensuring exceptional quality and fresh flavour. He also mentioned that only truffles found in France, Italy and Australia are really worth bothering with. The truffle season always sees a flurry of fine restaurants offering up dedicated menus, so I’ve tasted my fair share recently, but at Chez Bruno the truffles look more elegant, taste more refined, and the aroma is even more alluring.

With the just-baked rolls out the oven and the plates prepped, it was soon time for dinner service, and our eight course bespoke meal commenced. Benjamin insisted on offering us all the speciality dishes as well as a host of other sensational treats. Scrambled egg with truffle was a comforting bowl of fragranced eggy delight with cracked black pepper on top, particularly delicious when loaded onto a piece of the crusty bread. I imagine this is what royalty eat for breakfast along with the divine truffle on buttered toast which was served next.

After watching the dedicated chefs plating up the artistic Foie gras with beetroot, lentils and truffle, we tasted this colourful dish which Benjamin said he had introduced to the menu very recently. It was a more summery combination with vinegary dressed lentils, slivers of different beetroots, chives, crumbled black truffles and an immaculate slice of foie gras – the flavours and textures worked wonderfully together. Chez Bruno is best known for its secret potato and truffle dish, which visitors return for regularly. Sensationally simple, this dish only uses half a baked potato, a rich cream and truffle sauce, slices of white or black truffle, and a little seasoning. It was my favourite dish, especially with the exotic white truffles, which are the more expensive and have a more intense taste. The potato was fluffy and soft, coated in the most irresistible cream infused with truffle flavour.

A mouthful of palate-cleansing champagne and truffle granita was presented before the meat course. By this point I was too full to eat as much as I would have liked, and felt momentarily jealous of those with a larger appetite. Benjamin personally made us magical pastry parcels filled with pork and foie gras with a jus and topped with slices of black truffle. This is the kind of dish you want to come home to after a really long day at work, hearty and luxurious.

For dessert we had refreshing Italian truffle gelato, and tasted an orange and chocolate dessert, which seemed very out of place without any truffle!

When we left, the kitchen was still a hive of activity, as the enthusiastic chefs continued to grate, shave, crumble and sprinkle the wondrous black ingredient. The truffle is a delicacy that has become too common in restaurants, especially as they are often using inferior produce. Visiting Chez Bruno was an eye-opening and immersive experience, I know now that I will never think of this extravagant, distinctive little ingredient in the same way again, and urge you to visit the Truffle King if you ever find yourself in this part of the world.

More information and book a table at Chez Bruno here: www.restaurantbruno.com

Le Relais des Moines, Provence

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I have never had much need to visit restaurants in Provence. The fresh market produce and my family’s culinary enthusiasm mean a great meal is never far away. However on my last trip to the South of France I did a bit of exploring, keen to discover what Michelin star eateries offer in this part of the world.

Le Relais des Moines ticked a lot of boxes: close to home, good value lunch menu and very appealing sounding dishes. Head chef Sebastien Sanjou cooks passionately but meticulously with the vibrant flavours of Provence, preparing thoughtful dishes that are clever yet uncomplicated. This simplicity emphasises the quality of the ingredients used.

Located on the route to St Roseline in a quiet corner of the Var countryside, the restaurant is set in a beautiful preserved 16th century stone house overlooking the lush Cote D’Azur, illuminated by the southern sunshine. We sat at a calm table near the window, so we could admire the views while enjoying our food and drinking wine from nearby vineyards.

The lunch menu costs 39 euros a head and includes three courses, two glasses of wine and half a bottle of water, coffee and petit fours, and numerous little extra amuse-bouches throughout. Immediately unusual and delicious tiny tasters arrived to perk up our palates… cauliflower jelly, crispy bread-crumbed beef, and a glass vessel of mushroom soup. For starter we loved the small but rich bowl of chestnut veloute, lightly grilled foie gras, crunchy croutons, slivers of bacon and green cabbage. Despite the rich ingredients, the dish was delicate, thanks to the airy recipe and careful seasoning.

The main course was bold and brilliant, and I couldn’t believe our luck, as it was the only option on the set lunch menu – fine lean pieces of gorgeous beef dressed with braised mushroom and a foam with an intriguing woody flavour. The meat, though very pink for me, was so tender and tasty that I didn’t notice its rareness. The jus had clearly been given all the chef’s attention and had a real depth of flavour. After the waitress drizzled a little over our plates I asked her sweetly if she could leave the little jug of steaming sauce on the table, needless to say when she came to pick up the empty plates the jug was also empty.

Dessert was a more extravagant version of my favourite breakfast recipe. Pain Perdu (similar to French toast) with pear sorbet, caramel, sugary nuts and nougatine was a delight of different textures and flavours: soft warm cooked bread surrounded by a pool of sticky caramel sauce and topped with cooling fruity sorbet and vanilla bean silky cream. I scraped up every last bit with barely a breath between mouthfuls. If you are going for the more luxurious a la carte menu, I’ve heard the mandarin dessert is unmissable.

Hidden away in the hills of Provence this restaurant showcases the flavours and captures the atmosphere of the area perfectly. I can’t think of anywhere in London where a Michelin starred lunch offers such masterful food, special wine and value for your money.

More information and book a table here.