Every week there is a new must-try restaurant in London, and the Soho area has more than its fair share of these. On the edge of this popular district is Palomar, a new eatery serving delicacies from Jerusalem. The restaurant is full of character and charisma, with mad, musical waiters behind the bar, and a menu of tasty unusual dishes.
If you can, sit at the 16-seat bar to appreciate the eccentricity of the staff’s daily performance (rhythmic pan banging along to the music and dancing whilst cooking). Our waiter Eyal (they are all named on the menu) posed for photos and was extremely helpful and fun. We took his recommendations seriously as my knowledge of Israeli food is not up to scratch, and ordered many of the established favourites. The speciality ‘Polenta Jerusalem style’ with asparagus, mushroom ragout, parmesan and truffle oil was a gooey delight, creamy wet polenta with a woody collection of ingredients – we polished it off in no time.
Whilst sipping one of the exotic Garden of Eden cocktails, I observed the activity around me, the plates are prepared at super speed behind the bar, while friends chat loudly and relish the thrilling cuisine. You must try the hot challah bread, it is sensational; the staff plop it out from its moulded tin straight onto the plate, a bouncy, sweet sort of brioche that you can tear off and dunk in the dip. Towards the front of the venue, the neon illuminated Raw Bar carefully prepares all the uncooked dishes, pretty and healthy. Though we didn’t try these, I’ve heard the Salmon Tartare with Aubergine two ways is unmissable.
The Daily 6 is a tempting offer of assorted meze, but we opted for dishes from the main menu. My favourite was the Deconstructed kebab (Shakshukit) with minced meat, yoghurt, tahini, ‘the 4 tops’ and Yaeli’s pita. The crumbly meat was marinated in a rich mix of spices with a contrasting cool yoghurt. The tahini sauce was a little bitter drizzled over the top and I would have preferred it without. Pork Belly Tagine with Ras el Hanout, dried apricots and Israeli couscous is an impressively rich and sweet concoction, the meat is caramelised and melts in the mouth, surrounded by pearly grains and a handful of fresh coriander.
We omitted desserts, but I was tempted by the Chocolate Cremeux – puffed rice crunch, pomegranate coulis, cocoa tuile and almond strusel, it sounds like a devilishly indulgent invention.
Down a dark and dingy London street, Palomar glows with hope and happiness, the pink sign encourages guests to come in… and once you are seated you’ll never want to leave.
More information here: thepalomar.co.uk