It is currently impossible to get a table at Gymkhana. AA Gill wrote an unexpectedly glowing review, and equally fussy Giles Coren (who visited three times in five days) described all of the 25 savoury dishes he tried as “out of this world”. Needless to say the whole of London now want in on the hottest new eatery.
Luckily I ate at Gymkhana a month ago when there was a buzz about ‘a new Indian restaurant revelation’ but before the hype had completely consumed us all. Inspired by the colonial Indian gymkhana clubs, this venue hopes to encourage visitors, in the same way, to socialise, dine and drink. The room is beautiful, a warming wooden interior with atmospheric lighting from Jaipur wall lamps, cosy booths with marble tables and leather banquettes.
The extensive menu offers inventive and intriguing dishes, some familiar Indian favourites, others totally unrecognisable. We opted for a selection from the reasonable lunch menu (two courses for £20, three for £25) and the a la carte. I enjoyed an exotic yellow cocktail, expertly mixed and wonderfully presented in a saucer glass. A basket of poppadum shards arrived, with varied colours and flavours they looked as good as they tasted, enhanced by an amazing spicy tomato shrimp chutney.
I read several reviews prior to visiting Gymkhana and sussed out the popular dishes. Kid Goat Methi Keema is soft and richly flavoured with all kinds of magical spices. I am a sucker for creamy curry, and Chicken Butter Masala is the best I’ve tried of its kind, perfectly tangy tomato mixed with thick luscious yoghurt makes an irresistible sauce, especially good with the exquisite garlic naan. Kasoori Chicken Tikka with sprouting Moong Kachumber is a tender and aromatic grilled meat and the tandoori Guinea Fowl is equally exceptional.
Dessert was the only disappointment, perhaps due to my Indian inexperience. Rose Kulfi with Rose Jelly, Vermicelli, Basundi and Wild Basil Seeds sounded mesmerising, but I found the odd combination of jelly textures a bit creepy. The kulfi alone would have been enough for me, it cools the palate and provides a sweet kick for the end of the meal.
Those who are desperate to try Gymkhana’s wondrous food, I would recommend a trip to the original Karam Sethi restaurant in Marylebone, Trishna. This charming, Michelin-starred eatery features many of the same dishes at the same prices and is equally delicious.
More information and book here: www.gymkhanalondon.com
