Delhi is a very different city at 5am. The daytime dust has settled, the lights are dimmed and the noise dampens. When we arrived at Lutyens Bungalow we were bleary eyed and jet-lagged, but were quickly shown to a room we could rest and wash in before the day begun. Several hours later I pulled the wooden doors open to reveal an enchanting, family-run guesthouse.

The venue was completed in 1935 under the supervision of Edwin Lutyens, a notable British architect who was instrumental in designing and building much of New Delhi. It opened as a guesthouse in 1967 and has had several renovations and extensions since. There are 16 rooms, the bungalow rooms near the pool are perhaps the most desirable. I was staying in room 14, a simple but charming bedroom with plenty of natural light and characterful vintage furniture. The bathroom was petite but adequate with a powerful hot shower and large mirrors.

In the evening the optional £6 dinner at Lutyens is a revelation of home-cooked, fragrant Indian delights. We sat in the communal dining room chatting to other guests while dishes were presented to us – all kinds of hearty and flavoursome specialities. I couldn’t identify all the spices and vegetables, but I continued to pile the food on my plate, everything was delicious.

When I returned to the bedroom, full and satisfied, I was thrilled to find a hot water bottle keeping my bed warm. After a deep and restful sleep the smell of toast and coffee led me to the complimentary breakfast spread. The kitchen team here bakes fresh bread each day and use vegetables from their patch on site.

The friendly family are happy to help with travel and city arrangements or if you wish to relax there is a quiet swimming pool particularly useful in the stifling summer months. I fell for this captivating authentic retreat and it was an inspiring place to stay for my first night in India.

More information and book a room at Lutyens Bungalow here.