Tag Archives: ceviche

Pachamama, Marylebone

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There are now a number of fine Peruvian restaurants in London, cementing the trend for South American cuisine. Each time I sample the dishes at these trendy London hotspots I can’t help but wonder if the plates in Peru are presented with the same finesse and creativity. Pachamama is the latest Peruvian eatery to receive rave reviews from critics and locals, offering flavoursome and innovative dishes in a characterful setting.

It is easy to walk past the modest front door of Pachamama, it is only once you walk in that your senses are flooded; warmth from the kitchen, laughter from the guests, colour from the beautifully tiled interior and aromas from all around. The design is the definition of shabby chic, rough edged but with thoughtful touches everywhere. Before you even look at the food menu, order a round of Pisco cocktails – my favourite was the Mama’s Pisco, a fruity combination of fresh raspberry, mint and orange, with a good measure of Pisco, Peru’s national spirit.

The staff recommend around three dishes per person, but you will have a hard job picking from the array of interesting choices. The menu is split into Land, Sea and Salads; we aimed to pick at least one dish from each section to taste a variety of the offerings. I really wanted to try the sweet plantain but apparently the new chef forgot to add it to the produce order. Instead we opted for intensely flavoured sea bass ceviche with samphire, radish, sweet potato and tiger’s milk. The soft fleshy fish was sitting in a pool of wonderfully sharp vinegar dressing and topped with delicate specks of garnish. Flamed octopus with purple potatoes, capers and crispy shallots is a powerful dish: large chunks of seafood accent a thick, alarmingly black sauce. “Duck on Rice” was possibly my favourite dish, tender strips of meat with a crisp edge are drizzled with a sweet sticky sauce and served with gloopy but tasty avocado rice. I would also recommend Smoked Gloucester Old Spot ribs with English malt and peanut glaze, although rather messy to eat. For dessert we indulged with the chocolate fondant, brittle and salted peanut ice cream. I’m not sure how authentically Peruvian this dish is but it was good enough that we stopped caring after mouthful one. The dense chocolate fondant was gloriously rich and had an almost bitter cocoa flavour, thankfully the nutty, sweet ice-cream contrasted brilliantly.

The lunch menu at Pachamama is unmissable giving diners the perfect opportunity to taste the food without spending a fortune. Available between 12 noon and 3pm each plate costs just £6, a big reduction on the standard prices.

If Peruvian food at home is as good as the grub at Pachamama put me on the first flight.

More information about Pachamama here: pachamamalondon.com

Ceviche, Soho

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Once known as the only Peruvian restaurant worth visiting in London, Ceviche now has a few competitors grappling at its feet. The restaurant reservation list is impossible to haggle your way onto at short notice with bookings taken months in advance.

A group of four of us took our precious table in the noisy Soho restaurant on an August evening. The service was friendly and enthusiastic, and we let our waiter’s advice sway our order choices.

A small bowl of cancha (crunchy Peruvian corn) arrived to accompany our South American cocktails. Simple and classic Pisco all round, the passionfruit sour was voted the preferred drink.

We tried a few of the stylish Ceviche dishes:

Ceviche de Alcachofa (artichoke and sweet potato ceviche with red onion in Amarillo tiger’s milk)

Don Ceviche (fresh seabass ceviche in Amarillo chilli tiger’s milk, limo chilli, sweet potato and red onions)

Not a keen fish eater I barely tried the most popular seabass ceviche, but my companions gave it rave reviews. The ceviche is served raw in a puddle of intensely citrusy marinade which I found overpowered any other flavour.

Ensalada de Quinoa (white quinoa, tomatoes, avocado, butter beans and coriander with lime and limo chilli vinaigrette) is a fresh and healthy salad to munch on, adding some contrasting crunch with the meat dishes.

Pollo Rico (marinated chicken in Amarillo chilli, with a celery and red and yellow beetroot garnish) are lovely chicken skewers, dressed in a tasty spicy marinade and served with vegetables.

Lomo Saltado (Beef fillet, sliced, flame cooked with red onions, tomatoes, and proper chips) was perhaps our favourite. Divine, tender meat with a subtle but sublime sauce that was perfect for chip dipping.

A conservative meal for four (we left still a bit hungry sans desserts) cost nearly £120, including one cocktail each but no other drinks. The website is bright, cheerful and informative (with a visually attractive interactive menu provided via Pinterest) so if you want to peruse the Peruvian fare before parting with your hard-earned dinero it is easy to do so here.

More information here: www.cevicheuk.com

La Bodega Negra, cafe and ceviche bar, Soho

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Trekking through Soho ravenous after 11pm is a disappointing affair. After a late night play, food was a necessity and I had confidence that Soho would be the place to find our grub. Turns out everywhere stops serving at 10.30 ish, everywhere that is apart from La Bodega Negra Café and Ceviche Bar.

This Mexican café glows on the corner of Old Compton Street enticing in guests with the eye-catching neon sign and a happy soundtrack which drifts down the street. We skipped in, so delighted to hear they were still serving that we almost hugged the waiter. Snuggling up at a cosy corner table we were in the ideal position to observe and enjoy our surroundings, the raucous groups of friends and intimate couples, all enjoying a casual meal while listening to the entertaining music.

I promise you I tried to avoid the cocktails, especially after several glasses of Pimms earlier in the evening, but the authentic sounding drinks were irresistible… it didn’t help that I had major cocktail envy watching all the other diners sipping pretty drinks from martini glasses. I wanted to be like them, and taste what they had.. so I succumbed and ordered a caiprinha which arrived ice cold, strong and zingy but utterly delicious.

The menu is filled with all the usual classics, in numerous meat and veggie varieties. We ordered a few plates to share: Chicken Tostada, Pork Al Pastor Tacos with Salsa Verde and Quesadillas with Chorizo, Cheese and Salsa Roja. The dishes are slightly odd sizes, too small to share but too big to pop in your mouth in one go… neither starter nor main. It is best to order a selection and pick at it all, sharing and caring as you go. Apparently the Tacos are the most popular, yummy fillings in hard crunchy shells… but I found that I preferred the other dishes. Quesadillas were piping hot and oozing melted cheese, an addictive combination of ingredients with a kick from the spicy salsa and with a dollop of contrasting soured cream. Chicken Tostada was good too, an appetising mix of marinated pulled chicken, tinga, crema and avocado and the slightly strange addition of pineapple which I didn’t like so much. The homemade Guacamole is a must, mixed to perfection, I would definitely recommend a side portion with your meal.

Had it been earlier in the evening, I would have indulged in one of the yummy sounding desserts… especially as Mango Pannacotta and Lime Granita was on offer! There’s something to look forward to for next time…

La Bodega Negra provides tasty food in a fun environment and is the perfect place for a mischievous midnight snack.

http://labodeganegra.com/