THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN: Drake and Morgan, Kings Cross

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Bar and restaurant group Drake & Morgan has launched its latest addition, the eponymous Drake and Morgan in the rather swish and streamlined Pancras Square development in Kings Cross. Having already visited Parlour Bar, one of eight sister sites to Drake and Morgan, we were excited to see what was in store for us. Needless to say we were not disappointed.

The most recent venture from Jillian Maclean’s innovative bar group, Drake and Morgan continues to build on the themes of high quality food and drink served impeccably in elegant and modern settings. The location is spread across two floors and features many areas, including a restaurant, two bars, a deli and lounge, a number of kitchen pods that can be booked for any meal of the day, as well as an outdoor terrace. The space itself has a minimalist design, with mirror and metal creating a sleek backdrop for your afternoon drinks or evening bite.

Drinks on offer are predictable in terms of the quality of products and expert handling from the bartenders at any of the bars over the two floors. Bar/drinks consultants Hops & Jigger are behind the menu, and we would advise you to focus especially on the cocktail list – our favourites include the mescal and ginger-based Doctor’s Orders, or the Lemongrass Collins with Ketel one and rice wine. The wine list is equally impressive, with all tastes and budgets covered.

For food, twists on classics fill the small plates section, with the tuna, sesame and ginger spoons, and the lobster mac & cheese (my personal menu Achilles heel) standing out among the savoury options. While we did not sample the larger plates when we investigated Drake and Morgan, the quality of the sirloin steak suggested good things for our inevitable return. Even the peppered goat cheese, watermelon, and almond combination won me over at second tasting, and I picked up several more of the little collaboration just to “make sure”.

Despite its slightly hidden-away location, Drake and Morgan is now well and truly confirmed on my Kings Cross map. With DJs on until late on the usual nights, it joins an emerging nightlife hub alongside Vinoteca and D&D London in the newly reopened German Gymnasium: Kings Cross naysayers, prepare to eat your words.

More information and book a table here.

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, James Bomford.

The Devil’s Advocate, Edinburgh

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London is no longer the only place in the UK to try fine cocktails. The trend for culinary mixology is spreading and Edinburgh has its fair share of great bars. On my most recent trip to Scotland’s capital I visited The Devil’s Advocate with a group of friends and tried a range of their delicious drinks.  

In the centre of town but hidden away in the magical backstreets of Edinburgh, is this atmospheric bar and restaurant. Housed within an old Victorian pump house the venue has a historic feel to it, though the drinks are contemporary and innovative.

At night the bar was dimly lit and felt exciting, I noticed groups of friends were huddled around wooden tables trying strong drinks whilst catching up. The brilliant bartender came over and talked us through the menu of drinks which is split into categories depending on origin. Forgotten fairytale classics make an appearance, or you could try a ‘borrowed’ recipe from an inspiring bar somewhere around the world.

With a 200-strong whiskey shelf I decided to sample ‘Whiskey Rebellion’ a bourbon based cocktail mixed with Cocchi Americano, black tea maple syrup, absinthe and rosemary. It was a moody but fragranced drink with complex undernotes and well balanced taste. For something lighter try the long drink, ‘Once Upon a Thyme’ which includes sweet cherry and thyme jam, orgeat syrup, lemon juice, soda and cognac. The floral herb was well matched with the cherry and cognac and it was dangerously easy to drink. ‘Memento’ was also a tasty and smooth short drink, a delightful combination of Macallan Amber, Amaro CioCiaro, chamomile infused Aperol, Fernet Branca, Angostura and Whiskey mist.

If you are feeling peckish there is a relaxed mezzanine dining area and a food menu which showcases seasonal and Scottish ingredients. Though it is at night that this secretive cocktail bar comes to life.

More information and book a table here.

The Jones Family Project, Shoreditch

Most would assume the Jones Family Project is set up by a family, and in a way it is. Husband and wife team Anna and Duncan have been in the restaurant industry for a number of years and have brought colleague Amit and their trusted chef Christiano on board for this venture. A group of individuals who strive for the same goal, they each bring their own character and assets to the JFP business. ‘Jones’ seemed like a fitting surname to unite the group in this joint project.

The venue in Shoreditch can cater for numerous occasions with a large versatile space. The upstairs bar is often used for private events and parties, downstairs there’s another bar with high stools and booths, also an ever-evolving themed table and a smarter sit-down area for a la carte feasting. We sat at a quiet booth chatting to owner Anna while sipping a deliciously fruity Saffron Sour and a refreshing Langley’s No. 8 gin and Fever-tree tonic served with basil and fresh grapefruit.

The main restaurant area was busy and lively when we sat down for dinner, surprising considering it was a mid-week evening in January. Apparently the eatery is also popular for business lunches, and the special offers ensure guests return again and again. When we visited the seasonal offer was £40 for two burgers and a bottle of Burgundy. Steak is the speciality at JFP, supplied by Ginger Pig and cooked on a Josper grill, it is unmissable. We tried the juicy sirloin and the Pork rib-eye (a unique cut for JFP from Ginger Pig). Both were cooked exactly as we requested emphasising the fine quality of the meats whilst also giving a caramelised crunchy edge. Chef Christiano also offers shavings of luxurious and rich Belper Knolle cheese on top of the steaks, a very special addition which we loved. I was particularly impressed with the pork which was unlike any cut I’ve tried before, presented on a bed of chorizo, potatoes and savoy cabbage. The perfect warming winter meal.

Of the sauces, I would recommend the utterly wonderful Béarnaise – perfect consistency and perfectly seasoned. The classic Argentinian chimichurri is good too, more like a herby dressing for your meat. The peppercorn was a bit disappointing, and tasted more like gravy or red wine sauce. Steak frites is out of fashion and steak and mac is in, it was the truffled macaroni cheese from JFP that caused a stir on my social media, and trust me, it tastes as good as it looks, a cheesy crispy indulgent pasta bake with a hint of truffle.

Fitting in dessert was a struggle after we over-indulged on the savoury delights… but we managed to share a Triple Chocolate Brownie with coconut sorbet and salted caramel sauce! We were pleased to find it served warm along with a drizzle of caramel sauce and a contrasting clean cold boule of white sorbet. In retrospect the Gin and Orange Semifreddo may have been a more palate cleansing option to finish on.

As well as their creative cocktails, the Jones Family Project pride themselves on offering all guests a selection of great wines. Owner Duncan has a keen interest and knowledge of wine and uses this experience to create an extensive and varied list, many wines are available by the glass encouraging you to try something unfamiliar.

The Jones Family Project is a terrific venue for all occasions. They are placed in a great location, with tasty food and drinks, but it is the character and enthusiasm of the team that give the place such a happy, fun atmosphere.

More information and book here: www.jonesfamilyproject.co.uk