River Cafe, Hammersmith

As December approached last year, I found I was being repeatedly asked: ‘where is the best place for a work Christmas meal and party’? The specifications were always challenging: big enough, cosy enough, special enough, posh enough, cheap enough, private dining facilities, entire exclusivity, location… there is so much to consider, and it is a daunting responsibility to choose the venue, date and menus to satisfy the whole company.

London venues fill up fast and the prices escalate as workers all over town become more desperate for the perfect venue. This year I had my work celebrations at a very special restaurant, The River Café in Hammersmith. On a misty Wednesday lunchtime the setting was bleak and beautiful by the river. The open plan restaurant looks industrial from the exterior, slightly like a swimming baths. But inside the dining room is light and fresh with white draped tables and a psychedelic neon pink oven at the rear of the restaurant.

We were seated at the back in the lovely private dining room which seats up to 18 guests. The dining room has its own entrance with views onto the terrace and into the open kitchen. Cheese lovers will enjoy looking at the glass fronted cheese room which exhibits a selection of unusual Italian cheeses. The waiters were kind and patient with our rowdy group! We started with flutes of Prosecco, battered artichokes and pumpkin bruschetta. For starters a selection of antipasti were delivered to the table – highlights were the plump and creamy buffalo mozzarella and delicately smoky prosciutto ham.

Known for its exquisite homemade pasta, I persuaded our waiter to allow me to have a River Café pasta dish, despite its absence on the set menu. The buttery Agnoli packages of pasta filled with a rich and aromatic mix of rabbit, pheasant, pancetta, bay and Il Balzo Chianti Rufina was divine, I could have eaten double the amount. Other successes round the table were the thick-cut roast veal chop with capers, sage, lemon peel, Prosciutto di Parma and Risina beans and the chargrilled, marinated leg of lamb with smashed pumpkin & potato and hot olive & anchovy sauce. It was a feast of Italian delights.

Dessert for me was a disappointment, I found the pannacotta with pomegranate sloppy and unappetisingly presented. I looked adoringly at the plate of cheese that my neighbour was devouring. Wine was carefully and expertly chosen throughout the meal, complementing the food and flavours.

The River Café is one of the longest running, most successful fine dining restaurants in London, and I was impressed with every aspect of our experience here.

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