I love the original Good Egg in Stoke Newington, a brilliantly delicious cafe who got well known almost by mistake. I can imagine those hipster locals were not best pleased when they had to start queueing for a table for Saturday brunch along with the rest of London. Demand and success led to the inevitable second branch, in the more sociable area of Soho, the buzzy Kingly Court to be exact.
The new Good Egg is rather more preened and polished than the first, with pastel blue and pink decor and smart lighting. Inside it’s not so great for instagramming, so I had to take my food out to the lively terrace tables, which I’m sure will be a hit in the summer months.
During the day there is an all-day brunch menu, which features favourites like the shakshuka, along with filled pitta sandwiches, breakfast plates and sweet treats. I was completely overwhelmed with choice, especially as many of the dishes sounded quite similar.
The food was just as good as I’d remembered from trips to the Stoke Newington cafe. The Shakshuka is warming comfort food with a depth of flavour and a creamy decadence. I also loved the flavour of the meaty Brisket Hash with roasted potatoes and pickled vegetables, though did find it a little too oily.
It was the Jerusalem Breakfast Plates that really wowed. For £12 you can try a little bit of everything or just choose your favourites from the tempting list. Whipped green feta is silky smooth and delicious, House Labneh is irresistably tasty and the crispy halloumi is, well, crispy halloumi! Ask for a side of seeded Krekerim bread to mop up all the wonderful sauces.
After feasting on the Israeli brunch favourites you will be full but I urge you to leave with a slice of the Good Egg Babka to go. You will thank me, when at 3pm you reach into your handbag for a suitable snack and find this sweet and pillowy slice of happiness.
More information and book a table at The Good Egg, Soho here.