Clapham is now a destination on London’s food map thanks to The Dairy and The Manor, two restaurants with the same ownership, style and food finesse. Tucked away just off Clapham High Street, halfway between Clapham North and Clapham Common stations, you will find The Manor, a charming modern bistro. It has only been open a few months but the reservation book is filling up fast as foodies migrate south to try chef Dean Parker’s creative cuisine.
Warm bread in a sack was soon placed on the table alongside a precariously balanced lump of whipped ‘chicken skin’ butter on a pebble. The waitress kindly delivered a second bread and butter after we polished off the initial offering at staggering speed. We accompanied our bread with thick and meaty pork and fennel salami, delicious but rather a stingy portion for £7. BBQ crispy chicken skins and kimchi is a must, a crunchy salty and sweet mix of oriental flavours.
We opted for vegetarian starters, not intentionally: fermented potato flat bread with smoked aubergine and mint and Burnt kale with cavolo nero and toasted almonds. Both offer unusual tastes and were presented beautifully on unique ceramic platters. The kale had a beguiling bitter aftertaste complemented by a cooling creamy sauce made of something I was unable to identify. The smoked aubergine was delicious too, and would be ideal as a dip at the start of a chic dinner party at home.
Of the meat courses, I recommend the Suckling pig belly with braised head, morcilla and squash, an irresistible array of textures and tastes. The pork was carefully cooked so the meat was tender and the fat nicely crisped, the squash was surprisingly sweet and soft and morcilla (blood sausage) sauce in the centre is rich and indulgent. Hay-smoked pigeon with fermented grains, parsnip and malt granola was a little bizarre for my palate but is a hit with other foodies. The gamey meat is topped with crunchy cereal-like grains and the sauce is milky, qualities I expect at breakfast time.
Frozen chocolate fondant, dulce de leche and milk is for the chocolate lovers, a light yet punchy dessert. Granny Smith apple parfait with meringue and brittle sorrel is the showstopper. A light and refreshing pudding served in a small bowl is topped with leaves that are zapped with liquid nitrogen at the table, causing a stir all round. It was both exciting and tasty.
Clapham’s newest restaurant is quietly upping the ante for restaurants in this area. For me, it is very exciting to discover an eatery that illustrates the skill of a fine kitchen with the flair and character of a trendy young café.
More information and book here: www.themanorclapham.co.uk