Monthly Archives: January 2014

Chinese New Year at Yauatcha, Soho

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Once a year the city turns red as Chinese New Year celebrations take place all over London. This infectious and joyful occasion is like no other, with dragons parading through the streets, lanterns swinging and delicious Chinese delicacies being passed around for all to enjoy.

Glowing on the corner of Brewer Street, Yauatcha has been a Soho institution for a decade, an ultra-cool contemporary Chinese dim sum teahouse. The restaurant is part of the renowned Hakkasan group and relishes the Michelin star accolade it received within a year of opening. Wandering past often, I have always been intrigued by this huge restaurant, which stands out amongst the miniature cafes that populate Soho. When I was a child my family visited Chinatown often and I remember clearly sitting in the old fashioned New World restaurant on Sunday mornings excitedly choosing dishes from the passing trollies. I had a similar feeling of anticipation visiting Yauatcha, though here the service is rather more refined, and the food much more intricate and sophisticated.

On a miserable January evening damp customers were crowding the doorway at Yauatcha desperate for some warming tea and comforting food. Passing the beautiful displays of handmade cakes, we followed the waitress downstairs to a stylish and animated dining area. Tables are low which feels odd but authentic, and lamps and candles illuminate the walls. A fishtank full of colourful exotic fish extends across one side of the room and behind it the staff create equally colourful and creative drinks.

I was here to celebrate the year of the Horse and to try dishes from the special menu Yauatcha are offering in honour of the occasion. This year the restaurant has collaborated with luxury fashion empire, Harvey Nichols, who have designed a magical horse-themed window display for the eatery.

Alongside the decorations Yauatcha are offering the following Chinese New Year Menu, available from 30th January – 14th February:

Dim Sum Steamed / Fried
Golden cuttlefish roll £6.80
Steamed fish toll in black bean sauce £7.80

Seafood:
Barramundi in chive oil £18.80

Meat&Poultry:
Pork belly with salted fish in clay pot

Tofu:
Steamed tofu in black bean sauce

Vegetables:
Asparagus with dry bamboo fungus £13.80

Dessert:
Jasmine honey mandarin, sesame

Throughout the collaboration each guest at Yauatcha will receive a red envelope containing vouchers for fashion and beauty treats, along with a token for a bespoke Chinese New Year cocktail created by the Yauatcha and Harvey Nichols bar managers and available at the Fifth Floor Bar. Also during the campaign eight special golden tickets will be given to guests at random, containing lavish prizes such as meals and cocktail masterclasses at Yauatcha and makeovers at Harvey Nichols.

In addition, Hakkasan group’s Executive Pastry Chef Graham Hornigold has created bespoke macarons and petits gateaux, which will be added to the existing array of award-winning desserts, cakes and handmade chocolates. The limited edition flavours include:

Red Macarons depicting the Chinese character for the Year of the Horse, filled with mandarin ganache and mandarin pâte de fruit. Mandarins are traditionally given at Chinese New Year, and symbolise luck and fortune.

Red Petits Gateaux in the shape of a traditional Chinese New Year lantern, depicting the Chinese character for the Year of the Horse. A jasmine mousse filled with a honey pannacotta centre, with caramelised mandarins and sesame brittle. The mandarins symbolise luck and fortune, the sesame seeds fertility.

To complete the festivities a great spectacle will be put on for guests at Yauatcha on the afternoon of Sunday 2nd February when the traditional Chinese dragon dance will take place with its colourful and noisy celebratory performance.

As the New Year menu was not available until the following day, my guests and I tried a selection of the best dishes from the full a la carte menu. It was a real treat to choose from such a wide variety of Chinese dishes, and try some of the creations which have made this restaurant so popular with Londoners and tourists alike. To start we sampled a selection of dim sum, highlights included the surprisingly slimy but wonderfully tasty Prawn and beancurd cheung fun which was a unique layering of textures soaked in a moreish sauce. I loved the Wagyu beef puff, beautifully presented parcels with indulgent meat inside and the Sweet potato mushroom mei-si roll which was coated in a crispy layer that disintegrated as you picked it up, encasing a soft filling of vegetables.

I couldn’t resist trying the Chinese crispy aromatic duck with pancakes which I realised I have been craving for months. The quarter of duck plus accompaniments was priced at £16.90 which seemed incredibly reasonable for such a prestigious restaurant. The duck was wonderfully crispy with extra thin pancakes (which did tend to stick together) and cucumber, spring onion and hoisin sauce. The meat was perhaps a little too dry but was so flavoursome and particularly nice wrapped up with the other components.

The feast continued with egg fried rice and main courses. Stir-fry rib eye beef in black bean sauce was the most impressive, thin tender slices of premium steak coated in an irresistible sticky sauce with slices of onion and pepper. We also really enjoyed the vegetable dishes, especially the Spicy aubergine with sato bean, okra and French bean, a lovely assortment of flavours and colours, served in a pretty bowl.

For dessert the waitress managed to source some patisseries from the New Year menu. The magnificent Red Petits Gateaux looks as wonderful as it tastes, super soft creamy mousse, and thankfully very light. The macarons are meticulous too, the mandarin is alarmingly red with a little bite of mandarin fruit in the centre, I loved the coconut flavour which is sweet but refreshing.

The service at Yauatcha is immaculate, and the efficient staff whip away empty plates the moment the food is gone, top up water after just a few gulps, and wipe tables clean at regular intervals. It is a smooth, slick operation with never-ending attention to detail. As we opened our lucky red envelopes at the end of the meal, I had one wish in mind… a return visit to Yauatcha.

More information and book here: www.yauatcha.com/soho/chinese-new-year

Things to do in Oslo

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Unusual and exciting, Oslo has an icy cold appearance and climate but is perhaps the warmest and friendliest city I have visited. In recent years Norway’s capital has grown in popularity and importance, with the ‘barcode’ business district developing at speed and the hotel and restaurant scene becoming more trendy and diverse than ever before. It may be more expensive than its Scandi counterparts but it has just as much, if not more, to explore and discover.

SLEEP

The Thief – Less than a year old, the Thief hotel is without doubt the most enticing hotel in Oslo. Located on the water’s edge in the cultural hub of Tjuvholmen, this coveted hotel is the home for every celebrity visiting the city. With an enviable art collection and an alliance with neighbouring gallery, Astrup Fearnley, the accommodation looks as seductive as it feels. Hotels don’t come much cooler than this.

EAT

Sverre Saetre – This sophisticated gallery of pretty patisseries was opened by Norwegian pastry chef, Sverre Saetre who previously trained at the Michelin starred restaurant in Oslo, Bagatelle. The cabinets hold immaculate delights: macarons, cakes and the signature ‘dry cakes’ (puff pastry with red peppers and parmesan).

Pascal – This French inspired café is chic and charming, the perfect place to stop for a warming bowl of soup at lunchtime, or a much needed caffeine kick. The black and white tiled floors are reminiscent of a French brasserie, whilst the high ‘Michigan’ bar stools offer an American style juxtaposition.

Nighthawk Diner – For those needing an American food fix, Nighthawk diner is the place to go. Relax in the comfy red leather booths and order a Nighthawk combo-burger and pistachio milkshake. The ideal indulgence for a cold winter’s evening in Oslo.

Ekeberg Restaurant – Known best for its advantageous positioning on the top of the south eastern hills in Oslo this restaurant is architecturally sublime with the best views in town. It was a great setting for our New Year’s Eve meal, we sipped wine and admired the skyline as fireworks flashed above the city.

DRINK

Tim Wendelboe – Norway has a particularly strong affinity with coffee and the cafes in Oslo represent this well. Tim Wendelboe is unmissable for caffeine addicts visiting the capital. The slick micro roaster / espresso bar offers carefully sourced, rare blends of beans.

Blå – Every Sunday evening crowds cram into the lively and raucous jazz music venue, Blå. It is a place for locals to share a few beers with friends whilst enjoying an eclectic live soundtrack, we certainly felt like the only tourists in the place! The house band plays every Sunday, their music is infectious and impossible not to dance to.

Fuglen – Coffee by day, cocktails by night, this vintage institution is a must visit. Barely changed since 1963 you can buy nearly every retro article on display, or just sit and enjoy your surroundings.

SEE

Astrup Fearnley – This impressive new modern art gallery was conveniently close to our luxury accommodation at The Thief. Indeed the hotel is one of the museum’s main sponsors, and as a guest you are given free access to the exhibitions. Amongst the prolific works are the ostentatious Jeff Koons sculpture of Michael Jackson and Bubbles and Damien Hirst’s gory animals and bufferflies. We also enjoyed the temporary, more cheerful Brasilia show.

Munch museum – Edvard Munch is a Norwegian national treasure, and this museum is a homage to the great artist. A precariously icy walk to the museum was rewarded with a subtle and imaginative exhibition of Munch’s works on paper. An essential for any Oslo itinerary.

Holmenkollen ski jump – This terrifying structure is appreciated for its staggering feat of architecture and its more practical uses. Built in 1892 it is regularly used for international events, but for the rest of the year is a fine sight to see, and also houses the world’s oldest ski museum.

DO

Oslo Vinterpark – Oslo is totally unique as the only capital city to boast skiing so close to the busy town life. The slopes are easily reached by metro (just 20 minutes from the city centre) so lucky locals can enjoy a few hours of snow sports after a day at work. I skied for the very first time here. After a lesson with the brilliant instructor, Jonathan, I even managed a green run at the end of the session. It was a very special addition to our trip and an amazing asset to the city of Oslo.

Walk on the Opera House – Oslo Operahuset is perhaps the most impressive piece of architecture in Norway’s capital city. Sitting precariously on the water’s edge, this bold jagged glass and marble structure is admired for its glacier-like appearance and beautifully designed oak-lined auditorium. If you can’t afford the ticket prices, take a stroll on the sloped roof of the building and admire the views.

Vigeland Sculpture Park – Pick up breakfast at the super cool café, United Bakeries, then walk it off at the famous Sculpture Park. The park is filled with 200 sculptures in bronze, granite and wrought iron, made by just one artist, the lifework of Gustav Vigeland. Mesmerising and refreshing, it is a free activity that anyone and everyone would enjoy.

SHOP

Freudian Kicks – A beautifully curated selection of designers from around the world. I noticed cool brands like APC, Carven, Surface to Air and Wood Wood. Taking advantage of the post-Christmas sale, I bought a lovely warm roll neck jumper from Nordic brand, Wall Winter Spring Summer.

Moods of Norway – Started by childhood friends in 2003 this casual Norwegian clothes store has been a hit, expanding across the city, and further afield to Los Angeles and New York. The shop is filled with brightly coloured garments and accessories.

Hunting Lodge Store – This dinky design store has a quirky selection of products, prints, art books and edgy streetwear. Many of the shop fittings are one-off designs and the attractive layout encourages browsing.

Norway Designs – Those who are addicted to Scandi design like me will enjoy the plethora of treats in the big Norway Designs shop in the centre of town. Here you will find everything you desire from stationery to homeware, jewellery to accessories.

Many thanks to Oslo Tourist board for their help with this trip. More information here.

www.visitoslo.com

www.visitnorway.com/uk

The Ampersand Hotel, South Kensington

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When you live in London, staying in the city’s hotels will never be a necessity, instead it is a luxury reserved for special occasions. The Ampersand in South Kensington is currently top of my London hotel list; a modern, stylish and creative central London hotel which offerss for individuality and exceptional quality.

Housed in an old fashioned Victorian townhouse, the interior is the very opposite of the exterior: exuberant, exciting and inventive… with an emphasis on Ampersand inspired art, showcasing innovative furniture and artwork wherever possible. It is an unrecognisable renovation from the previous shabby three-star hotel. The Ampersand is now enjoyed by staying guests and locals alike who use the communal areas for meetings and meals.

The rooms are categorised and thoughtfully themed, our Deluxe Room had hints of ornithology throughout its detailing. Other rooms are inspired by concepts such as astronomy, music, botany and geometry. The luxurious Deluxe rooms are smallish but snug; the design embraces the architectural quirks: in our room the King-size bed was squeezed into an awkward space behind two pillars, unconventional but very cosy and comfortable. With a big tv and numerous plump pillows it is the perfect place to wrap up in a duvet and watch a film… and lying in my decadent bed, Great Gatsby felt like the ideal movie choice! The mini-bar is stocked with soft drinks, all of which are complimentary… a rare bit of generosity for a London hotel.

A dinky sofa and desk allows space to work and relax, though the noise from the nearby main road may interrupt you. The super slick and stylish monochrome tiled bathroom includes a walk-in shower, branded rubber duck and lovely Miller Harris toiletries.

The fantastic eatery, Apero, is located in the basement, and the décor has a seductive, casual New York vibe with exposed bricks, filament bulbs and simple wooden tables. The food is Italian, tasty and unpretentious, and very reasonably priced. Cocktails are blindingly good too, expertly mixed and beautifully presented. Breakfast is served at Apero too, an array of fresh fruits, rustic loaves and pastries are on offer, as well as an irresistible menu of a la carte dishes. I indulged at breakfast with a big frothy cappuccino and Brioche French Toast with Cinnamon and Red Fruits.

A civilised and pretty Afternoon Tea is served in the vividly coloured Drawing Rooms, eclectically designed, it reminded me of Alice in Wonderland. Then for private dining and special events, the Wine Room is an elegant option.

The Ampersand manages to present a happy venue ideal for hanging out at any time of day for any purpose. I loved the meticulous library, curated and created by Philip Blackwell of Ultimate Library. Ampersand endeavour to be different and with this personalised library and handpicked playlist from Music Concierge, they achieve something unlike any other space in London, totally unique and original.

Minutes away from London’s most famous museums and shops, The Ampersand is wonderfully convenient… but this is not what you’ll remember when you depart… beautiful design, scrumptious food, and friendly service make this hotel unforgettable for all the right reasons.

More information and book here: www.ampersandhotel.com