Berners Tavern has received rave reviews from every critic and blogger who’s managed to nab a table. This lavish eatery is part of Ian Schrager’s new London Edition Hotel which has already welcomed high-profile guests including Kate Moss and Damien Hirst. Within a week of opening, Edition became THE place to stay while Berners Tavern became THE place to eat. With Chef Jason Atherton in-charge of the kitchen, it’s hardly surprising – he can do no wrong and with Berners Tavern he has hit the jackpot once again, his third successful London opening this year.
The opulent dining room has an impressively high ceiling and pictures cover the walls giving the place a boho vintage feel. It is a far cry from the modern minimalist tapas-style eateries monopolising the scene in Soho.
The menu is an all-star compilation of continental favourites: seafood, sandwiches, salads and steaks… after a fruity and flowery cocktail, our starters arrived. Chargrilled chicken paillard with tangy tomato,red onion and rocket was a wonderfully fresh Mediterranean dish, but it was the Crispy Romney Marsh lamb breast with butternut percorino fregola that thrilled – a genius combination of flavours, the earthy vegetables with the juicy meat topped with indulgent cheese, it all worked wonderfully well.
Steaks from the charcoal grill are hearty and filling and perhaps the most popular choice for main… the hunk of meat arrives on a wooden board along with a cup of chunky duck fat chips, salad and sauce. Manly and magnificent. The meat had a lovely depth of flavour enriched further by the various accompaniments. I would have preferred skinnier chips, but that’s being fussy.
Desserts are perhaps the most creative section of the menu… I was tempted by every option. We decided on Caramel apple eclair and Warm almond brioche with pear compote and ginger sorbet. Both were exemplary, indulgent comforting recipes, so tasty you’ll feel obliged to lick the plate clean.
The Berners food is less adventurous than Atherton’s other establishments, but will appeal to everyone. Those staying at the hotel will also enjoy the Berners breakfast, I particularly recommend the French toast!