“By nature we are nonconformists. Every day we hope to learn and find answers to the questions that crop up and allow us to develop and move forward” – Jose Avillez.
The resounding success of Belcanto is testament to Lisbon’s favourite chef. Jose Avillez is a phenomenon and provides the Portuguese capital with unforgettable culinary delights.
This once classic gentleman’s club in Lisbon’s Chaido district has been transformed by Jose into a wonderful emporium of molecular gastronomy. Discreet and modest, we struggled to even find the entrance, but once inside we were seduced by the creative décor, the relaxed atmosphere and the welcoming staff. So often gourmet restaurants compromise on character in order to let the food have free reign, Belcanto offers both in harmony – it is the very best kind of fine dining.
Before the main meal commenced we were treated to a seemingly never-ending assortment of taster treats. A perfectly spherical frozen, non-alcoholic caipirinha ball served on a bed of crushed ice, a trio of olive inventions and a goldleaf coated nutty chickpea truffle. Crazy but great fun to try.
Every dish is a work of art. Jose keeps you guessing, presenting each of his eccentric dishes in a completely unique and unexpected style. One such dish was the magnificent Wave Breaking, a collection of seafood served in a specially designed and fabricated pottery plate, showing true imagination and innovation. This was a beautiful dish in every sense. The Hare with white beans was less extraordinary but still tasted delicious.
The mains were exquisite: Suckling pig revisited with fried potatoes, orange and salad; and Belcanto’s own-style steak with inimitable triple-cooked chips. Both meats were cooked to our exact specifications and served with indulgent sauces. The fat on the pork was so thin and crispy that no part needed to be left, even for fussy eaters like me. The vibrant citrus puree was an unexpected contrast and one that took a little getting used to. By far the most exciting part of this dish was the side portion of fried potatoes, presented in edible paper packaging and hung on a wire line – I’d never seen anything like it.
It was tricky to select just two desserts off the menu so our waiter advised us on his favourites. Mandarin, as it was simply named, was a study around this summery fruit. It was the most incredible glowing orange ball of sorbet. Refreshing and palate cleansing, it was great after the big meal. The Chocolate and hazelnut pudding was rather more rich and indulgent – a chaotic pile of chocolate and nut components.
Exemplary Portuguese wine was picked out for us at every stage of the meal.
Jose is a local celebrity and in my eyes a total hero. Our meal at Belcanto was exceptional and the highlight of our trip to Lisbon.
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