Maze Grill, Mayfair

Maze Grill is known for its superb steaks, but I was keen to visit for its recommended burger. Located in the same building as Gordon Ramsay’s more prestigious Maze (serving award-winning French and Asian influenced food), Maze Grill has a relaxed atmosphere and a menu of British best.

We began with a simple cocktail, sweet but tasty fruit flavoured martinis… my lychee variant was particularly good. Sitting down in the plush corner sofa seats we could voyeuristically observe the restaurant’s running. Busy and bustling, the place was full from early evening and everyone seemed to be having a great time… I was optimistic about the meal ahead.

A cheeky chappy came over with ‘the board’, loaded with glistening hunks of meat. Each had its own story, assets and limitations, I listened intently… after all one of these would soon be on my plate. We rapidly chose our first course, crispy calamari and, staying true to my burger promise I ordered the sliders, with a Maze burger for main. It was a feast of meat, cheese and carbs… a diet dream! The calamari was tasted fresh and Mediterranean strewn with spring onions and a wedge of lime.

Though I was disappointed with the burger, my friend’s steak was definitely in my top three I have ever tried, and I envied his every bite. The burger was neatly presented and served with a couple of onion rings. Despite requesting the meat medium, the patty was very dense and a bit dry, although the flavour was still good. The butter lettuce, tomato and Monterey Jack cheese were all good but the bread was too thick and filling, and I couldn’t finish it all.

Steak is really what Maze Grill is all about and I’m pleased to say that they excel in this area. We experienced the most tender and wonderful 8oz Wagyu “9th grade” sirloin steak. It was so good I could imagine requesting it as my last meal on earth. Along with half a roasted garlic, and a very thick and creamy bearnaise sauce, I really couldn’t fault it. For those who don’t know… Wagyu is the designer steak of ultimate indulgence. The cow is massaged (and some are even fed beer) to create an evenly marbled, melt in the mouth meat.

Chips were delicious too, hand cut and parmesan & truffle french fries are on offer. We tried both, naturally. I was particularly enamoured of the fries subtly seasoned with truffle oil and a modest sprinkling of parmesan.

Wine was chosen according to our food choices – the sommelier picked appropriately and thoughtfully offering us different reds to suit the burger and steak, and a crisp, drinkable white to start.

I must admit I found the service a little suffocating. Seven staff members attended to us constantly throughout the night: concierge, hostess, waiter, sommelier, waitress, meat expert. It was very flattering but also quite distracting; when your mouthfuls are so regularly interrupted indigestion is inevitable. Aside from that the food was commendable… and with steaks this good I’m sure Maze Grill will always be busy.

More information here.

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