I used to come shopping on ‘Ken High’ in my early teens… near enough to home that my parents wouldn’t worry, but exotic enough to satisfy my inquisitiveness. As the most popular west London high street, this road features all the big brands and plenty of cafes for that essential afternoon pit stop. As a child I remember a distinct lack of restaurants here, and I am amazed it has taken this long for a stylish but casual eatery to appear.
Pavilion ticks every box: breakfast, lunch and dinner service, a deli-counter, a pastry chef in-house, a flower shop, a glorious champagne bar with masterful mixologists and an elevated seating area in close proximity to the chef Adam Simmonds. Previously Michelin-starred at Danesfield House in Marlow, Simmonds comes highly recommended and brings his passion for British produce and a creative enthusiasm to this new Kensington restaurant.
The restaurant interiors are alarmingly attractive, especially compared to the drab street outside. Designed by designLSM, the people behind Burger and Lobster in Harvey Nichols, it sparkles with a vintage glamour. The central champagne bar is the main attraction, a seductive art deco design made from Maquina marble and a pewter top that oozes timeless elegance. Here you can enjoy one of the signature drinks: the Buttered Julep made with house-made Brown Buttered Bourbon, fresh mint and sage and a hint of bitters is unmissable with its smooth caramel flavour. For a snack the charcuterie and cheese is very seductive; the allocated counter has a wonderful array of British cured meats sourced from Cannon & Cannon.
The open kitchen in the main restaurant creates a buzzy ambience, especially on opening night. The menu is classic but imaginative featuring luxurious ingredients and unusual flavour combinations. To start, the pork belly was a hit with my guest… a rich and indulgent dish, perfectly cooked slices of tender pork with soft smoked pineapple, black pudding, langoustine and lardo adding a little saltiness. I found the Quail a little undercooked for me, though I can be unnecessarily squeamish, I would have preferred it to be less slimy in texture.
For main course there is the option of the steak seen hanging in the meat cabinet. We tasted the sirloin, a wonderful pedigree of meat served with tasty chunky chips, bone marrow and onions. The meat needed sauce, so I asked if the chef could rustle up a peppercorn sauce, which arrived minutes later, and greatly improved the steak. The Lamb was a more sophisticated dish, served with smoked aubergine puree, goats’ curd and anchovy salsa verde. It was a complex plate of flavours that worked well, especially the exquisite and moreish sauce.
For dessert, Apple is a lovely light option. A modern take on apple crumble, it involves an airy and sour mousse with a nutty crumble, apple sorbet and a touch of butterscotch. Buttermilk is the star of the list though, and the small portion disappeared in moments! A rectangular chunk of sweet and gooey orange blossom pain perdu is paired perfectly with buttermilk mousse and zesty orange granite, edible petals delicately decorate the pudding.
For those keen to regularly frequent this venue, there is an elite Pavilion member’s club which costing £95 a month. These special guests can enjoy the exclusive terrace.
With great interiors, friendly service, innovative tasty food and spectacular cocktails, I think shoppers may forget what they came to High Street Kensington for, choosing instead to enjoy a long lunch at Pavilion. Don’t forget to buy a floral bouquet by Paul Morris on your way out.
More information and book a table here: www.kensingtonpavilion.com
