Flat Iron, Soho

There is something instantly appealing about the notion of a steak for 10 quid. Which is what Flat Iron offers, no strings attached.

Of course there is the no reservations policy but the queue is painless… you go on a list and settle downstairs with a drink before being called to your table, and it’s all very calm.

There isn’t really much of a menu:

Flat Iron Steak served with house leaf salad £10

Dripping cooked chips £2.50

Creamed Spinach £3

Today’s market greens £2.50

Sophie’s salad (blue cheese, candied pecans, lemon dressing) £3.50

Roast Aubergine (tomato, basil, Parmesan) £3.50

Sauces (Bearnaise, Fresh Horseradish Cream, Peppercorn, Fred’s Sauce) £1 each

Speciality Wagyu steak was also available (for the extra cost of £16) when I went along and I got the impression that luxury steak alternatives are often added to the standard list.

It was so simple and easy and yet so perfectly delicious. Lean, seasoned, sliced meat presented on a wooden board. A modest portion beautifully presented with a small glass of dressed lambs lettuce. The chips are insanely good too, medium thin, soft inside but crispy edged. Of the sauces, I would recommend the peppercorn with tiny flavoursome pieces of diced onion or the light and creamy Bearnaise.

Salted caramel mousse is the one and only dessert option… a squirty hand whipped cream machine is used to inject the tumblers with the airy sweet mixture. It was divine, life threatening perhaps, but just so so good. And even better with a sprinkle of sea salt on top.

I was impressed with the cocktails as well, Pound Sterling £7 (Chase English vodka, sloe berry liqueur, Tahitian vanilla pod syrup, lime and soda) and Rhubarb Aperol Spritz £6.50 (Chase rhubarb vodka, Aperol, lemon, sugar, rhubarb bitters, soda) were our preferred tipples. Both were served semi-long with perhaps a little too much ice as they soon became diluted. The ingredients though were finely matched to create delicious and unique drinks.

I loved everything about Flat Iron. But please don’t go, I don’t want to have to queue behind you as well.

More information here.

www.flatironsteak.co.uk/

@flatironsteak

THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN: Liam O’Connor, Ronnie Scott’s

If before Wednesday afternoon you had asked me whether an accordion player could ever be a rock star, I wouldn’t even have dignified such a ridiculous question with an answer. This week I was made to reassess that position, by none other than Liam O’Connor, a supremely talented multi-instrumentalist from County Cork. Not only has Liam performed alongside the biggest name in Irish music, as one of the original lead musicians in Michael Flatley’s Lord of the Dance, but he also holds the impressive Guinness Record for the “fastest fingers in the world”, which we would soon experience, from a safe distance – “Jimi Hendrix of the accordion” is not a title given out lightly.

I have been to Ronnie Scott’s many times before, but never at midday, and never to see an accordion performance. After a brief delay for sound checks, Liam O’Connor took to the stage. Ably supported by his band, and his own children on a variety of traditional Irish instruments, Liam proceeded to deliver an hour of infectious toe-tapping, whirling, dazzling musicianship. Quickly discarding his signature leather jacket, he threw himself into the performance, covering every inch of the stage, caught up in his own music. More frequently than I, and anybody for that matter, could imagine, Liam found himself lying on the floor, eyes firmly shut as his record-breaking fingers dashed up an down the keys of the accordion. After feeling briefly uncomfortable as only the British can at such a show, I settled back and succumbed to the foot tapping and hand clapping.

Liam stuck mainly to the accordion, showing how gracefully one can manoeuvre such a cumbersome box around, often swinging precariously in one hand as he flew round the stage in a frenzied trance. Highlights of the hour long set were Local Hero and Tico Tico (the track he performed for his world record) which both feature on the album, as does Harmonium. For Lark, Liam took up the “low whistle”, which aside from being a compliment in some neighbourhoods around Ronnie Scott’s, is also a classical Irish instrument. I have to admit, while impressive and catchy, it was a little too close to Ron Burgundy’s jazz flute routine for my taste.

Only one moment could perhaps have taken away from what was a wholly enjoyable afternoon, and that centred on the Rasta Reel, Liam’s unique take on Bob Marley’s iconic No Woman No Cry. It was a wonderful performance, and if it had taken place in the evening, to a packed house, I’m sure we would have had no qualms about being asked to head to the stage and sing and dance along. But this was midday on a Wednesday, Ronnie’s was half full, not enough wine had been consumed, and we were all extremely middle class about it all. As Liam bravely gestured to the assembled shufflers to sing along, the band’s volume lulled, and we were treated to the reedy, shifting choir of whispering voices, half-heartedly advising some mythical woman not to cry. I felt like Hugh Grant in About a Boy, when they sing with their eyes closed.

This aside, it was a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon, and I would recommend anyone with an interest in good music, or accordions, or both, to head over to the Killarney Avenue Hotel this summer, where Liam is performing throughout the summer months (more information here). If that’s too far for you to go, however, there’s always his cd.

www.liamoconnormusic.com

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, James Bomford.

 

Lucky Chip’s Slider Bar at The Player, Soho

Initially The Player seems like an unlikely venue for Lucky Chip burgers, the residency has certainly brought a new clientele to the bar. Then there is the issue of yet another burger joint in Soho; in its original venue, east London’s Sebright Arms, there is little competition nearby. I would know because after an exhausting trek to Dalston and the sad realisation that burgers weren’t served on Sunday evenings, my friend and I had to find an alternative to satisfy our meat craving. There was none.

The concept at this Soho slider bar is simple: two sliders, french fries and a homemade sauce for £10. The tricky bit is choosing from the appetising menu of mini burger varieties. Starving hungry and wanting meat, I was salivating just looking at the menu… beef, pork, fish and veggie burgers are all available, and there are no limitations, you can choose any two for a tenner.

The Player is a hidden underground haunt famous for reinventing forgotten cocktail culture. On entering this atmospheric lounge, I was instantly reminded of a jazz bar from a bygone era or a vintage prohibition club. We snuck to a small corner table, at 6.30pm the place was already crowded.

Drinks are available on both the Lucky Chip and Player menus, and we opted for the latter, inspired by the tropical sounding recipes. Priced between £8 and £10, I was impressed with the fruity concoctions, each arriving with pretty flourishes decorating the glasses. The rum-based Mexican Breakfast and Hurricane were definite favourites amongst our group.

The cute little burgers were delish though a tad salty. Sloppy but almost bite-size, they are much more manageable than a normal sized burger. I was pleased with my choices: ‘double cheeseburger’ and ‘Royale wit cheese’, similar classic combinations with aged beef patty, applewood smoked bacon, tomato, onion, mustard & pickles. They are well constructed and easy to gobble up quickly. The meat is juicy and tender in the middle with gooey cheese and crunchy fresh salad accompaniments. A modest portion of chips arrived with a pot of amazing garlic aioli.

I was terribly disappointed to discover the ‘build your own’ sundae was temporarily off the menu due to a broken freezer. Instead we shared the warm brownie, which was surprisingly good. If you are hungry I would advise ordering a starter… American style appetisers are available: Mac-N-Cheese, Chicken Bucket and Peanut Butter & Jelly Sandwich. Two little sliders are unlikely to fill you up.

The Player is popular thanks to the arrival of Lucky Chip and I can see why, this burger bar offers something different to the neighbouring burger joints. Fingers crossed these exquisite burgers will be a permanent fixture so we can all enjoy them for years to come.

More information on the Slider Bar here.