Sonny’s Kitchen, Barnes


As a child I heard my parents mentioning Sonny’s several times as one of their favourite restaurants in London… the type of eatery they only ever visited without the burden of their fussy and noisy children… so needless to say I was never invited.

This welcoming restaurant is one of a kind, and an obvious reason to visit Barnes, an often forgotten area of West London. Along with a few other chosen writers I took a trip there unaware of the evening’s treats. We gathered at 6.30 pm to sip pink bubbly and chat with the night’s host, the esteemed chef Phil Howard, who co-owns the establishment with restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas. We spoke about the life and soul of Sonny’s, recently renovated with a newly appointed head chef, Tommy Boland. Spicy nuts and divinely gooey mozzarella and porcini mushroom pizzas were passed around.

Our menu for the evening showcased chef Tommy’s skill and creativity. He was previously at The Square in Mayfair for three years and before that he worked at a variety of fine restaurants including the Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris. With Phil Howard’s help he has designed an exquisite menu emphasising simplicity and seasonality.

Our special menu for the night:

Grilled Mackerel with a fine potato salad, smoked eel & golden beetroot

Pan fried Pollock with a vinaigrette of Razor Clams, Barba di Frate & Leek Hearts

Roasted Haunch of Venison with Beetroot Puree, creamed cabbage, pickled pear & green peppercorns

Creme brulee with griottine cherries

The team in the kitchen kindly substituted the fish with vegetable and poultry alternatives, but kept the recipes similar, and the flavours were certainly just as vibrant. It was a tour de force… along with the four courses we were given numerous extras including wild garlic soup and ham hock fritters and an exotic fruit salad.

A fine selection of wine was served matching the menu perfectly. The highlight for me was the beautifully cooked Venison which looked menacingly striking on the plate, a gleaming piece of meat coated in a sensational red sweet sauce, and given an extra kick from the crunchy green peppercorns. The simple and subtle chicken with leek and potato was equally divine, melt in the mouth meat with an addictively good gravy.

Chef Tommy came out to meet us, beaming with pride. His innovative cooking is bound to get people talking about Sonny’s once again, though I can’t think of a reason why this perfectly balanced restaurant would ever be forgotten. A real gem and definitely a reason to venture out to Barnes.

More information here.

http://www.sonnyskitchen.co.uk/

The Square Cookbook: Savoury, by Phil Howard


The Square is one of the most special restaurants I have had the privilege of visiting. The food is exquisitely executed and beautifully presented and the restaurant is a light and lovely place to dine. Phil Howard founded this renowned establishment in 1991 and it continues to thrill regular and first-time customers. After 21 years of culinary brilliance and critical success, no-one can dispute that this is an eatery worthy of its two star accolade. With the publication of his first book The Square, Phil Howard continues to inspire, now you can have a go at recreating his masterpieces in your own home.

The a la carte menu is full of seasonal British ingredients, and it is a real treat selecting from such an extensive selection. I chose the intriguing sounding Hand Rolled Macaroni with Sticky Chicken Wings, new season’s Mousserons, Cauliflower and Vacherin. My friend ordered the Saute of Scottish Langoustine Tails with Parmesan Gnocchi and an Emulsion of Potato and Truffle, this is the dish Phil told me was his current favourite, so I was delighted to try it. It was as exceptional as expected, subtle and delicious with the freshest plump langoustine. Our food was enhanced by perfectly matched wine.

Our main courses were so spectacular they provoked quite a reaction from the neighbouring table, an enthusiastic couple who desperately enquired about which dishes we had chosen; tourists in London I asked them how they had discovered the Square – apparently the concierge at their hotel had recommended it as a London foodie must. I couldn’t resist trying the Breast of Grouse with Turnip and Celery, Pearl Barley, Pancetta and Blackberries: a gamey delicacy only found on menus for a very short period each year. My guest chose Roast Loin of Pata Negra Pork with Baked Quince, Lardo Wrapped Prunes, Croquettes and Sherry. I was surprised by the unusually large portions, perhaps because I usually opt for the lighter lunch menu. Both dishes were prepared immaculately with genius flavour pairings and careful consideration of the meat’s qualities.

We didn’t rush our meal, I wanted to savour every moment… our cheese and dessert courses were spent alone in the restaurant as the final guests meandered merrily out. The puddings at The Square are blissfully simple but effective… Plum Souffle with Almond Ice-cream and the famous Chocolate Bar, both indulgent and very tasty which is all I desire from a dessert.

The cookbook is a magnificent bible from a master of flavour and simplicity. It proves that Michelin star cooking is achievable at home. This is the first book of two, the Savoury edition before the Sweet. It is clear that Phil has poured his passion and expertise into every page of this epic publication with detailed analysis of the recipes, useful tips and stunning photographs. This glorious book is a classic and deserves a place on every kitchen shelf.

Speaking to Phil about his journey with The Square restaurant, it was immediately very clear to me why this restaurant has enjoyed continuous success in a city which has changed its culinary taste so dramatically over the last 20 years. Phil admitted it is sometimes scary to stand still while everyone around you is moving on with such speed. But if anything, this book cements the belief that the best British food doesn’t have to involve scientific experiments and molecular concepts to excite – the best food is still, and will always be created from a love of good ingredients, inventive combinations and an ambition to create food that tastes sublime.

To complement the new book Phil stars in a newly launched, specially commissioned six part digital mini series and podcast. Entitled “Kitchen Foundation”, the films feature Phil demonstrating how to establish the foundations of a successful kitchen. Phil’s cookbook represents the culmination of more than twenty years spent at the helm of one of the UK’s finest 2 Michelin Star restaurants.

See all the films here: http://www.squarerestaurant.com/Cookbook/Videos.aspx

http://www.squarerestaurant.com/