As a child I heard my parents mentioning Sonny’s several times as one of their favourite restaurants in London… the type of eatery they only ever visited without the burden of their fussy and noisy children… so needless to say I was never invited.
This welcoming restaurant is one of a kind, and an obvious reason to visit Barnes, an often forgotten area of West London. Along with a few other chosen writers I took a trip there unaware of the evening’s treats. We gathered at 6.30 pm to sip pink bubbly and chat with the night’s host, the esteemed chef Phil Howard, who co-owns the establishment with restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas. We spoke about the life and soul of Sonny’s, recently renovated with a newly appointed head chef, Tommy Boland. Spicy nuts and divinely gooey mozzarella and porcini mushroom pizzas were passed around.
Our menu for the evening showcased chef Tommy’s skill and creativity. He was previously at The Square in Mayfair for three years and before that he worked at a variety of fine restaurants including the Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris. With Phil Howard’s help he has designed an exquisite menu emphasising simplicity and seasonality.
Our special menu for the night:
Grilled Mackerel with a fine potato salad, smoked eel & golden beetroot
Pan fried Pollock with a vinaigrette of Razor Clams, Barba di Frate & Leek Hearts
Roasted Haunch of Venison with Beetroot Puree, creamed cabbage, pickled pear & green peppercorns
Creme brulee with griottine cherries
The team in the kitchen kindly substituted the fish with vegetable and poultry alternatives, but kept the recipes similar, and the flavours were certainly just as vibrant. It was a tour de force… along with the four courses we were given numerous extras including wild garlic soup and ham hock fritters and an exotic fruit salad.
A fine selection of wine was served matching the menu perfectly. The highlight for me was the beautifully cooked Venison which looked menacingly striking on the plate, a gleaming piece of meat coated in a sensational red sweet sauce, and given an extra kick from the crunchy green peppercorns. The simple and subtle chicken with leek and potato was equally divine, melt in the mouth meat with an addictively good gravy.
Chef Tommy came out to meet us, beaming with pride. His innovative cooking is bound to get people talking about Sonny’s once again, though I can’t think of a reason why this perfectly balanced restaurant would ever be forgotten. A real gem and definitely a reason to venture out to Barnes.
More information here.