Pedler opened a mere month ago and already tables are scarce and seats at the bar highly sought after. Peckham is a hotspot for new eateries and bars – in a neighbourhood full of enthusiastic foodies, this new venue, run by locals and intended for locals, is bound to do well.
Pedler has a cosy, homely feel with eclectic mismatched vintage patterns, hanging lights and exposed brickwork. At night the lively bar has a buzzy feel, whilst in the mornings, the white painted tables and abundance of natural light create a cool summery brunch vibe. The restaurant is run by Tim Moore and Taskin Muzaffer, who are also the dream team behind boutique distillery Little Bird Gin. In the kitchen executive chef Gareth Crosby creates bold dishes emphasising the freshness and quality of the British produce.
The menu lists twelve dishes which change daily depending on the seasonal ingredients available. Loosely split into starter and main sizes, they advise two plates each, one from each category. First start with some salty lad-y-dahs, generously sized pork scratchings that arrive packaged up in an old-fashioned stripy sweet bag, the perfect nibble while you sip your cocktail. We tasted the girly raspberry Clover girl and the citrusy Strong gimlet. Priced between £6 and £8, the cocktails are both reasonable and tasty. If you want something simpler, opt for a delicious G&T.
The dishes came individually, which certainly prevented us from gobbling, and prolonged the meal nicely so we could chat and assess each plate. The Pumpkin and chive arancini were plump and wonderfully crispy, with a firm rice centre, served with a dollop of sweet balsamic mayo. Lamb kofte was a favourite: juicy meatballs, perfectly seasoned served with hummous and charred baby gem. Beetroot tarte tatin is an original vegetarian option, a filling and comforting dish. The pastry was incredibly flaky topped with unusual yellow beetroot slices and a side of pepper leaf and an exquisite herby rosemary aioli, that I craved more of all night.
Eating slowly definitely fills you up, and we found two dishes each was too much for the three of us. Frizzle chicken has already become a speciality at Pedler. It is a dish which harks back to Peckham’s food history, a sophisticated remake of the cheap fried chicken they used to sell here. It was lightly breadcrumbed, crisped up and served on a bed of steaming hot polenta, parmesan and attitude sauce (which has plenty of fiery chilli) – a brilliant recipe which apparently took chef Gareth weeks to perfect. Wild ‘shroom pancake with leeks and ricotta is a delight, a thick spongy pancake hiding a mess of cheesy leeks and mushrooms. For a more indulgent treat Pan roast guinea fowl with truffled roots and chives is a rich main course – tender game with a wonderful crispy skin, a sweet silky smooth root vegetable puree with a tangy hint of truffle. Sides were the only disappointment – soggy kale soaked in cream and beef dripping chips that tasted like they’d been cooked from frozen.
We couldn’t fit in dessert, though Valrhona chocolate parfait with white chocolate and pomegranate sounded very tempting. Instead we ended with a pot of fresh mint tea, and wandered home, delighted to have discovered a new Peckham hotspot. Pedler is worth travelling for, but lucky for me I don’t have to… next time, I’m going to try the popular brunch menu.
More information and book a table here: www.pedlerpeckhamrye.com