I’ve tried to visit Peckham Bazaar several times now but their small restaurant doesn’t accommodate many and it is always full to the brim with ravenous locals. Last Friday however I managed to secure a table for two at 9.30, a chance at last to try their highly regarded cuisine.
It is a bit off the beaten track, and even after I had convinced my parents that Peckham is not ‘a bit stabby’ (their words, not mine) I was beginning to reconsider. There is a distinct lack of street lights and the towering housing estates on either side of the road create an eerie wind tunnel. Freezing and hungry, we arrived at the shabby but grand ex-pub, which houses Peckham Bazaar on the ground floor.
They describe the food as Pan-Balkin, and cook the majority of the dishes on a giant, smoke-pumping grill, which leaves a tempting scent in the air. Albanian chef John Gionleka is found engulfed in a cloud of charcoal smoke, we nodded in appreciation as we walked in. Sitting at the back of the venue we could survey the room, and all the groups of friends joyfully consuming the tasty grub.
The room is not fussy or trendy but comfortable and welcoming. After a nice glass of light house white, we tucked into Charmoulah chicken wings (£6.50) which are marinated in a delectable mix of spices and skewered on sticks. Served with a sweet roast butternut squash puree, kohlrabi and onion, there are a lot of vibrant flavours to excite the tastebuds. The chicken is encased in a caramelised crunchy skin, and yet remains tender inside.
For main course, we took the waitress’s advice despite eyeing up the pork chops on the neighbouring table. Grilled English rump steak with winter artichoke and new potato stifado was a tour de force, lean chunky strips of meat on a sumptuous pile of potatoes and vegetables, seasoned immaculately. The Grilled marinated quail is a speciality and did not disappoint. I carefully stripped it of every scrap of meat, charred and delicious on the outside, succulent inside. The accompanying herbed pilaf, moutabel (aubergine dip) and adjika (red pepper sauce) were a little sweet for me but texturally worked well, pomegranate and mint leaves added dashes of colour.
Peckham Bazaar definitely serves the best Greek food I’ve tried in London; in fact… I challenge you to find better. Guess that’s another restaurant to add to my ever-growing Peckham favourites list.
More information here: www.peckhambazaar.com